I am trying to follow everybody's method but mainly Diamond Brite's for 1st 2 days
pH 7.2 - 7.4
Alkalinity 80 - 120
Trying to follow everybody's method gives you a confusing brew to sort out. We recommend you follow the plaster companies start-up guide if you have it. Mixing advice from different sources does not take into account various interactions that a guide takes into account.
1, I read that a high TA will prevent the pH from moving easily, that is what I meant
Here is a better explanation of TA. Too high TA is better then too low a TA.
www.troublefreepool.com
2. So my worries (at least about TA) are overblown. I am now at about 160 after numerous chemical additions today
Stop focusing on TA. It may be a high number but has the least effect on pool water chemistry. People seem to focus on TA because it is a big number. Your FC, PH, CH and CYA all effect plaster health and water sanitation while TA does not.
3. I've already added Borax. From what I read that made the most sense to me was hit it hard with acid, then raise the pH with borax to 7.8,
From what you have read where? Not on TFP.
then get both TA and pH down with acid again. Trying to do that today, but I never made it.
Here is our process for lowering TA.
A lower Total Alkalinity level can help a pool owner stabalize their pH increase. We'll explain how to lower TA with a little help from muriatic acid.
www.troublefreepool.com
However I never recommend lowering TA until after the first 30 days. Just let the TA be whatever it is. TA will get lowered naturally as you lower your pH. In time your TA will come down unless you have high TA in your fill water.
4. I can raise the CH, but third day requirement recommendation from DB says no more than 200.
That's fine. Follow the DB recommendation. 200 vs. 250 is not a big difference.
Don't get focused on hitting a number. All of our recommended levels have ranges. Anywhere in the range is fine. See
Use our tool to find ideal chemical levels for any swimming pool. Check TFP recommended levels on pH, free chlorine, cyanuric acid, and more.
www.troublefreepool.com
5. "Whatever done is done" is not going to help me sleep tonight, maybe you can elaborate? Never was much plaster dust, it looks good.
Could I have done some harm today?
From our
Plaster Installation and Maintenance - Further Reading wiki. For whatever reason you got what looks like an
acid start-up. The study of different start-up methods found:
When 40X magnification was used to examine the plaster surface, we found that the Acid startup coupons were slightly etched, with the thin layer of cream (cement) missing, the aggregate exposed, and the surface uniformly rough. On other hand, the Bicarb startup coupons were very smooth, with the cement cream layer still intact and the aggregate not exposed. The other two methods fell in between the Acid and Bicarb results, with the Traditional startup coupons showing just a slight effect of exposed aggregate, and the pH Neutral startup coupons just a little more exposed than the Traditional. This microscopic examination was consistent with, and confirmed the results found by using the “calcium increase” analysis method.
As can be seen, the results obtained by this study shows that the Acid startup is the most detrimental method and causes irreparable harm to a new plaster surface. While the Acid startup may dissolve plaster dust and help the surface look good for a few months, it should be understood that this etched and more porous plaster surface will deteriorate and stain earlier and easier.
Today I have been aerating with slide, return fixture (explained above) and air compressor (intermittently).
That is what we recommend for raising pH.
My pH had gotten as low as 6.6, but the TA has never gotten lower than 130.
As of 3/21, 17:30 pH is 7.2 ( after a total of 20 lbs of Borax in 2 shots) and my TA is still 160. In total since the fill I have added 7 gallons of acid.
I don't know if your water got a full acid startup – where enough acid was added to lower the pH to 4.5 and alkalinity to zero - about 3 gals. of acid per 10,000 gallons of water.
But whatever it is it is done with. pH of 7.2 is fine. TA of 160 is fine. Just lower pH about 0.4 when it hits 7.8 - 8.0.
Start-up guides don't explain why they recommend the water chemistry they do. Most start-up water chemistry is biased towards a positive CSI. It is actually necessary, to achieve a smooth and dense surface, to have about a +0.5 CSI during the first 30 days. This is because the plaster (cement paste) surface contains about 20% calcium hydroxide, which is somewhat soluble in balanced and slightly positive CSI water and can be dissolved away. The plaster surface needs to be "carbonated" before the CSI should be lowered to the acceptable and balanced range. And that generally is achieved during the first month under balanced water.
So the high end of the pH range is better to maintain that then the low end of the pH range.
My craziness stems from statements like "low pH or high TA will do this and that" but I never really know what kind of time frame they are talking about (especially with new plaster.). Can it do harm in hours? 1 day? Also, it's reassuring to know that my high TA will not really hurt it (but how am I supposed to know when it says adjust to 120 and I can't seem to get there.
That's why we are here. Ask questions before you add chemicals that you are not sure what they will do.
We have the challenge of not overloading new pool owners with all the details of water chemistry whys. If you just follow our recommendations they tend to work without needing to know why. When you mix TFP recommendations with other peoples you can get lead into the swamp.
I hope that you and your family are safe during this virus mess.
Mark
Thanks. We are all settled in for a long slog. These are interesting times that we will get through better then before.
