New Plaster Build, High Acid Demand

[thegizzard]

You guys are good. I added a gallon of “liquid” CYA this morning as of this afternoon my level increased from 5 to 25, just as predicted.

I will measure again in the morning and then add enough to get CYA to 35.

I’ve got 4 pounds of granular 100% CYA (attached). Pool Math says 13 oz to get to 35 ppm. That’s the plan, but I will adjust based on tomorrows measurements.

Thanks for solid guidance.

 

[mknauss]

The CYA test is not accurate to 25 ppm, it is either 20 or 30. So if you could see the dot at 30, but not at 20, then the CYA level is 30 ppm.

The CYA test vial is in logarithmic scale. So you cannot interpolate between the lines.

 

[Newdude]

+1. And for now I don’t think it matters much. It’s close enough for the wintertime. You have a bunch of lows in the 20s/30s coming. Even if the plaster was cured it would be too cold for the SWG to work for a while anyway. Once the water temps are above 50 again, get the CYA up to 70. For now the lower CYA will make it easier to treat the pool with less liquid chlorine

 

[wireform]

I wouldn't bring CYA up as soon as the water is warm enough for the cell to work, I'd wait till the air temps come up too this way if there's any reason to slam till then it'll take less chlorine.

 

[thegizzard]

The CYA test is not accurate to 25 ppm, it is either 20 or 30. So if you could see the dot at 30, but not at 20, then the CYA level is 30 ppm.

The CYA test vial is in logarithmic scale. So you cannot interpolate between the lines.

Got it. Just retested. CYA is 30. Let’s see if CYA changes overnight in case any is undissolved. Either way, I’ll take your advice here and leave CYA at this level for a while.

Thanks again.

On a side note, the pool requires a steady 31 ounces of MA daily to reduce pH from 8.2 to 7.5. Is that OK for a new pool? If I did not have the automated acid pump that would be a pain.

 

[ajw22]

On a side note, the pool requires a steady 31 ounces of MA daily to reduce pH from 8.2 to 7.5. Is that OK for a new pool? If I did not have the automated acid pump that would be a pain.

What is your TA?

Run your pH in the 7.6-7.8 range. Don't lower it to 7.5.

 

[thegizzard]

What is your TA?

Run your pH in the 7.6-7.8 range. Don't lower it to 7.5.

My levels are below.

PoolMath Logs

api.poolmathapp.com

I am on Day 18 of new pebble pool start up so I am following the PBs chemistry guidance attached until Day 28. For pebble startup they want pH between 7.4 - 7.6 after day 14.

 

[ajw22]

With new plaster you just keep on feeding it acid as it needs.

 

[thegizzard]

With new plaster you just keep on feeding it acid as it needs.

Cool. I thought so. Just wanted to be sure. Thanks again.

 

[thegizzard]

Everything good today ... except for my math skills. Turns out I have been miscalculating CH. For some reason I translated 5 drops into CH = 250, instead of CH = 125. Pool Math says I need 286 ounces of Calcium Chloride to get to CH = 225 (the bottom of the PB range for weeks 3 and 4). Today I added 128 ounces. I will measure again and add more next year

PoolMath Logs

api.poolmathapp.com

 

[setsailsoon]

Giz,

Since you're feeding all this acid you may want to check out big box MA. HD has it in my area for ~$12 for 2 gal. of the 31.45%.

Congrats on the new plaster and welcome to TFP!

Chris

 

[thegizzard]

Giz,

Since you're feeding all this acid you may want to check out big box MA. HD has it in my area for ~$12 for 2 gal. of the 31.45%.

Congrats on the new plaster and welcome to TFP!

Chris

Good call. I see it locally for $17 vs $23 at the pool store. And they haver scheduled delivery for $9 -- which I could do and still save a few bucks. Great Call. It looks like the pool store has seen the last of me.

 

[thegizzard]

Am I correct to assume that my spillover (in profile pic) is causing my pH to rise even faster than normal for a new plaster pool? My spillover runs whenever the filter is on and the pool is in Pool Mode. The spillover only stops in Spa Mode. It runs in Pool Mode for all but 30 mins a day because we are in startup and trying to make sure we get all the plaster dust, calcium, whatever else there is out of the new Pool. The filter is also on 24/7 during startup. So I think I can expect the pH rise to slow down if I start running the pool filter for 12 hours instead of 24 hours a day. Is that reasonable?

 

[mknauss]

The spillover will drive pH up. So yes, if you reduce spillover, you reduce pH rise.

You can program your automation to only run the Spillover function for 20 minutes or so twice a day to keep the spa water chlorinated.

 

[thegizzard]

It appears my Aqualink is not in Spillover mode. I do not currently have a separate way to turn the spillover on / off. Spillover is on whenever the pool is in Pool Mode. Researching here, I see that Dip switch S1-3 enables Spillover mode. This thread was helpful.

Now I need to check my Auxiliary situation. I have an Aqualink PS-RS6 and I am not sure if I have a free Aux to enable spillover. This is my current setup.



If I move Dip switch S1-3 to the on position, then Aux3 will become Spillover, and I will need to relocate my Pool light. I am not sure if I can do this given the number of auxiliaries I already have in use in my PS-RS6.

@PoolGate , @JamesW , @ajw22 - any thoughts before I open my panel and poke around?

 

[thegizzard]

Further reading... It looks like switch S1-1 enables a CLEANER function for use with a booster pump. I have a Dolphin M600 robot, so I think I can turn this switch to off, freeing up Aux1 to use for the Spa Light.

I think that will remove the Cleaner button from my home screen which I have no use for, If I understand what it does correctly.

 

[ajw22]

I think you have the correct plan. Turn dip switch 1 off and 3 on. Move the spa light relay to plug into AUX1.

I think you need to remove the SPA LIGHT label from AUX3 before you change the dip switch. Then add it to AUX1 after you change the dip switches.

 

[thegizzard]

Just walked the dogs. Game on. I will report back.

 

[thegizzard]

OK... mixed result. Dip switches set, labels changed, all good there. This is what my home screen looks like now.



That's exactly what I wanted. But spillover control doesn't work.

Pool Mode Works. Spa Mode Works. But turning off Spillover has no effect.

Below is what happens to the valves with Spillover turned on and off. The only change is the JVA on the SPA Return.

It looks like this could work properly by adjusting the manual spa and pool return valves, but I do not want to guess and break something.

Any thoughts on how to get the spillover working properly?

@ajw22 in your other thread you mentioned -- "I reset the cams on the return actuator so spa was fully closed when in pool mode." Am I missing that part?

 

[mknauss]

Appears the actuated valves are operating correctly.

In your Return picture, you need to turn the manual valve on the Spa Return (same side of the actuated valve as the pool return) to OFF. That will stop the spa spillover.