...but it's been 3 days filling and I see water is warm, maybe turning slight greenish....per wife. I think could be algea. Should be filled tonight but pool folks won't arrive til Monday 8am . Is there anything I can do til them to eliminate possibilities of algea growing, without motor running? Something that won't affect pebble I just got put in. Thanks.
New pebble in with glass, filling with water...
- Thread starter ciaka
- Start date
- May 3, 2014
- 58,392
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
New water typically looks a bit green, likely from iron. Did the plaster company add a metal sequestrant?
Yes, they gave me the startup chemicals that I added when pool was about 1/3 per their request. Other than that nothing else hope good enough
I had my water tested before the feeling started thanks started and there was no iron in it at all no fast fades or other things like that yeah so I'm not sure where the green is coming from my oand from my only guess is it's getting really hot waters really really hot and there is no chlorine in it maybe maybe algae or something I have no idea
- May 3, 2014
- 58,392
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I doubt it is algae. Again, new fills do look green.
Are you following a start up process? The early days of start up are very critical to plaster longevity.
Are you following a start up process? The early days of start up are very critical to plaster longevity.
ferretbone
In The Industry
Would you call the color more of a teal green or a slight lime or bright green? What color is your plaster? I sometimes have to make a chlorine slurry. I'll take a half lb of chorine granules and mix well in a bucket then pour around the side of the pool. If it's not metals and not algue, then its plaster residue.
Pool not filled yet but I've been brushing spa and bottom of what's filled. They told me to fill and wait til Monday am. Any suggestions before then. They want to start pumps and do initial balance
Last edited:
- May 3, 2014
- 58,392
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Guess you wait. The pool builder is only concerned with short term quality. Any issues 6 months from now they are long gone. Poor decision to plaster without pump available to manage the plaster dust and chemistry.
@ciaka I think this is your second fill and I hope you got all the issues fixed with your plaster.
The water in your pool is no different than your bathtub so waiting a day for the PB to come out should be fine. I remember after my replaster the water was a green and it cleared up once we put in the chemicals and ran the pumps for a couple of days.
Good Luck.
The water in your pool is no different than your bathtub so waiting a day for the PB to come out should be fine. I remember after my replaster the water was a green and it cleared up once we put in the chemicals and ran the pumps for a couple of days.
Good Luck.
The pebble is aqua blue. With blue glass.
The water looks little teal, not yellowish. I've been picking up any bio stuff off surface with net to help the pool.
Yea, second plaster in 6 months. Brand new pool and they screwed up this time had quality folks during pebble and acid wash. Keeping fingers crossed.
Yep I have to wait but will keep brushing to keep stuff moving I guess and keep skimming surface. About foot from filled now. Bar stool tops almost touching water now. Can't wait with the 100 degree weather in TX now. Perfect for swimming.
The water looks little teal, not yellowish. I've been picking up any bio stuff off surface with net to help the pool.
Yea, second plaster in 6 months. Brand new pool and they screwed up this time had quality folks during pebble and acid wash. Keeping fingers crossed.
Yep I have to wait but will keep brushing to keep stuff moving I guess and keep skimming surface. About foot from filled now. Bar stool tops almost touching water now. Can't wait with the 100 degree weather in TX now. Perfect for swimming.
Last edited:
- Jun 24, 2021
- 7,500
- Pool Size
- 30000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60
I'm curious. Is this an indoor pool? Wonder, if it is outdoor pool, why did they sell you a UV Unit? --> UV Systems
Also curious on the Nature2 Fusion. --> Nature2 Fusion Are you using the Mineral and SWG or just the SWG?
Also curious on the Nature2 Fusion. --> Nature2 Fusion Are you using the Mineral and SWG or just the SWG?
This is outdoor pool. They sold me package for equipment. Thought about it and left alone.
Not using the Nature2 Fusion. Have the cap and there is no cartridge.
Not using the Nature2 Fusion. Have the cap and there is no cartridge.
Hi C.
I'm in the middle of a pool build from h3ll here in Austin. Who built / plastered your pool? Also - does the Kona Autofill work? My autofill wasn't installed correctly and was looking at going with the Kona for autofill.
I'm in the middle of a pool build from h3ll here in Austin. Who built / plastered your pool? Also - does the Kona Autofill work? My autofill wasn't installed correctly and was looking at going with the Kona for autofill.
Kona works great.
I had pool builder install pvc line from directly under my spiggot outside, to the return lines. Installed a rpzalong the way, to ensure nothing backs up into house. Also installed valves that I can close, If I need to remove the kona. K9na controller is attached to piping with connectors that I can twist off if I need to service it in some way.
Anthony & Sylvan built my pool.
I sometimes almost feel sorry for pool builders, because their contractors just don't give a hsit about them. They have more jobs than they can do, and everyone wants for them to descend gracefully to do a job. Grant it, pool builder construction managers should be extra involved, but in my experience, it is on a person by person basis.
Where in Austin are you? I'm actually just outside, in Dripping Springs.
Wish you well with finishing your job. One contractor told me their company has more than 500 jobs scheduled.
Builder told me their minimum times to complete jobs has extended from aboutv4 months, to 10-12 months, all due to contractors.
If you have questions, PM me, I'll be glad to help.
I had pool builder install pvc line from directly under my spiggot outside, to the return lines. Installed a rpzalong the way, to ensure nothing backs up into house. Also installed valves that I can close, If I need to remove the kona. K9na controller is attached to piping with connectors that I can twist off if I need to service it in some way.
Anthony & Sylvan built my pool.
I sometimes almost feel sorry for pool builders, because their contractors just don't give a hsit about them. They have more jobs than they can do, and everyone wants for them to descend gracefully to do a job. Grant it, pool builder construction managers should be extra involved, but in my experience, it is on a person by person basis.
Where in Austin are you? I'm actually just outside, in Dripping Springs.
Wish you well with finishing your job. One contractor told me their company has more than 500 jobs scheduled.
Builder told me their minimum times to complete jobs has extended from aboutv4 months, to 10-12 months, all due to contractors.
If you have questions, PM me, I'll be glad to help.
Just got pool plastered. Took 4 days to fill with 2 hoses. Water is city water. No well. Etc.
As was filling added sequestration as builder asked.
Tested my wayer before filling. Has zero iron, nitrates, nitrites, lead. Etc. Aka No metals or phosphates.
As pool was fling noticed a slight aquamarine tinge to it. Very slight but that's the color I noticed, wife too.
My plaster is aqua blue with blue glass.
Have been told the greenish tinge is normal on new fill water.
Q1: How long does it take to clear. And what clears it up?
After pool guy started pump, I've been running it 24x7 at near max speed 3450).
Pool guy added shock and liquid cya, and Muriatic Acid.
Told me the somewhat cloudy look clears up.
Q2: When should the cloudy go away?
Dobt recall from my first pool fill..
My FC is at 5, CC at 0, pH at 7.4, TA at 250, CH at 225, CYA at about 20.
Q3: What should be my priority now, FC, CYA and pH? That's what I would think.
Thanks for insights.
As was filling added sequestration as builder asked.
Tested my wayer before filling. Has zero iron, nitrates, nitrites, lead. Etc. Aka No metals or phosphates.
As pool was fling noticed a slight aquamarine tinge to it. Very slight but that's the color I noticed, wife too.
My plaster is aqua blue with blue glass.
Have been told the greenish tinge is normal on new fill water.
Q1: How long does it take to clear. And what clears it up?
After pool guy started pump, I've been running it 24x7 at near max speed 3450).
Pool guy added shock and liquid cya, and Muriatic Acid.
Told me the somewhat cloudy look clears up.
Q2: When should the cloudy go away?
Dobt recall from my first pool fill..
My FC is at 5, CC at 0, pH at 7.4, TA at 250, CH at 225, CYA at about 20.
Q3: What should be my priority now, FC, CYA and pH? That's what I would think.
Thanks for insights.
Your pH will rise due to plaster dust so I would not focus on that being at 7.4 now. Right now, brush because some cloudiness is due to the plaster dust. The greenish tinge will disappear as you water is balanced and plaster dust is captured.
Is your PB taking over the chemistry balance for the first 30 days? Need to work with him so nothing is doubled up. Are you following the start up procedure for your plaster type? That indicates what levels should be and your TA may be too high but you do not want to tank your pH either so need to manage that slowly.
Is your PB taking over the chemistry balance for the first 30 days? Need to work with him so nothing is doubled up. Are you following the start up procedure for your plaster type? That indicates what levels should be and your TA may be too high but you do not want to tank your pH either so need to manage that slowly.
Thanks!! Agree about PBs and their contractors. One of several issues I have is that they PB didn't install the autofill box when the decking was poured and their solution is a jerry-rigged retrofit of the box. I may buy the Kona and have them install it instead. We are in Crystal Falls / Leander but very familiar with the Dripping Springs area.
I am going to focus on FC, pH and CYA
Trying to:
Bring CYA to at least 40 (pool guy put in some liquid stabilizer but my testing shows it still below 30 - will give it few days to make sure everything is dissolved)
Keep FC at about 5 or 6 (that puts me in target range with CYA of up to 30)
Keep pH at about 7.6-7.8
Slowly reduce TA by putting in Muriatic, bringing it down few points at a time, then using waterfalls to aerate and bring pH back up. Over time that will decrease.
My CH - not worrying about it much now, it was high in the fill water, did not increase after the fill.
Anyone see a problem or improvement to my plan above? Thank you for advice.
Trying to:
Bring CYA to at least 40 (pool guy put in some liquid stabilizer but my testing shows it still below 30 - will give it few days to make sure everything is dissolved)
Keep FC at about 5 or 6 (that puts me in target range with CYA of up to 30)
Keep pH at about 7.6-7.8
Slowly reduce TA by putting in Muriatic, bringing it down few points at a time, then using waterfalls to aerate and bring pH back up. Over time that will decrease.
My CH - not worrying about it much now, it was high in the fill water, did not increase after the fill.
Anyone see a problem or improvement to my plan above? Thank you for advice.
Water has been in since last Sunday.
So far, I noticed there is very substantially less dust compared to initial acid wash. The pool greenish tinge disappeared after about 2 days while treating pool.
It has been replaced by an awesome looking blue sparkle, likely from the glass.
So far doing great. pool builder balanced the water and added the stabilizer too. CYA is at about 40 now (thats what I get when I had water tested...the CYA test is kind of a joke with that black dot).
My FC is at about 6ppm now, TA at about 200 and slowly coming down (started at about 275). CH is steady at about 250. CYA has been increasing but I am not adding any more for now, until the trichlor tabs dissolve fully. Should end up with about 45ppm CYA.
Then it will be no more tabs, just liquid chlorine as I have gotten used to doing.
The acid wash was done much better this time around for sure. I see some dust in the water but barely.
Some questions:
- how long do I run my main pump at 24x7, at 3450 rpm? Initially the pool builder had it run for a month, but I dont see that of any use with less dust and water being clear and balanced now. Its been a week now, do I let it run like that for 2 weeks? Month? etc?
- Any advice on taking CYA measurements with the FAS DPD 2006c kit from Taylor? Current test involves the black dot in small tube, but you can see that thing any time pretty much. Advice will be greatly appreciated on this measurement.
So far, I noticed there is very substantially less dust compared to initial acid wash. The pool greenish tinge disappeared after about 2 days while treating pool.
It has been replaced by an awesome looking blue sparkle, likely from the glass.
So far doing great. pool builder balanced the water and added the stabilizer too. CYA is at about 40 now (thats what I get when I had water tested...the CYA test is kind of a joke with that black dot).
My FC is at about 6ppm now, TA at about 200 and slowly coming down (started at about 275). CH is steady at about 250. CYA has been increasing but I am not adding any more for now, until the trichlor tabs dissolve fully. Should end up with about 45ppm CYA.
Then it will be no more tabs, just liquid chlorine as I have gotten used to doing.
The acid wash was done much better this time around for sure. I see some dust in the water but barely.
Some questions:
- how long do I run my main pump at 24x7, at 3450 rpm? Initially the pool builder had it run for a month, but I dont see that of any use with less dust and water being clear and balanced now. Its been a week now, do I let it run like that for 2 weeks? Month? etc?
- Any advice on taking CYA measurements with the FAS DPD 2006c kit from Taylor? Current test involves the black dot in small tube, but you can see that thing any time pretty much. Advice will be greatly appreciated on this measurement.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,392
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
You should not be running it at full speed. Slow the RPM to 2500 or so. That is sufficient. Once the plaster dust is gone you can create your own schedule based on your pool needs, how you chlorinate, etc.
The dot test is far superior to any pool store test. Try this the next time.
Once you have your solution ready, back to the sun, etc. Fill the vial to a line, say 80, lower the vial to your waist level and glance for the dot, you see it, add solution to the 70 line, glance, see it, repeat until you no longer see it with a glance. Then use the CYA value one step above the line you read. So if you stopped at 50, use 60 ppm CYA.
The vial is in logarithmic scale. So it is not viable to interpolate between the lines. Just use the whole numbers, such as 50, 40, 30, ....
