- May 3, 2014
- 58,945
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Lower pressure is no issue. You are saving a bunch of $$$ with your electricity rates in California.
New Owner - High Combined Chlorine and TA - Need Help Please
- Thread starter LGL44
- Start date
Yes, astronomical, thank you. Prior to beginning SLAM (which I hope we can finish by tomorrow!), I had been running pump at night daily for 8 hours at 3000rpm bc was told all water needs to circulate at least once. Are you suggesting I might lower RPM for same 8 hours per day or what combo of hours/rpm do you think is right?
- May 3, 2014
- 58,945
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
See post #57. There is no need to run your pump at high rpm unless you have a suction cleaner (do you?) or some other issue.
Turnover is a myth. Read https://www.troublefreepool.com/content/152-determine-pump-run-time
Turnover is a myth. Read https://www.troublefreepool.com/content/152-determine-pump-run-time
- May 3, 2014
- 58,945
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
OK. A suction cleaner attaches to a dedicated line or in the skimmer and uses a vacuum device powered by the pool pump to clean the pool. So I assume you do not have one!
Then your pump rpm only needs to run high enough to close the flow switch on your SWCG.
Then your pump rpm only needs to run high enough to close the flow switch on your SWCG.
sorry, I'm a real novice. When you say "enough to close flow switch on SWCG" what does that mean or how do I know? In other words, if I run pump at say 1500rpm and Hayward Aquarite SWCG is turned on, once the "generating" light is on, then is that good enough? or am I looking for something else?
- May 3, 2014
- 58,945
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
A SWCG must not be allowed to generate chlorine when the pump is not running or it can explode. The primary safety device to to remove the power to the SWCG when the pump is not running. I hope yours is set up that way. The SWCG must be on a timer to run when the pump is running or have some other method (automation, current sensor, etc) to only allow power to be sent to the SWCG when the pump is running.
The SWCG has a flow switch which is a secondary safety device. So you need to run the pump at a rpm such that the flow switch 'closes' and turns on the generation of chlorine. So if the light that says the SWCG is generating is on, that is a sufficient rpm to run the pump at.
The SWCG has a flow switch which is a secondary safety device. So you need to run the pump at a rpm such that the flow switch 'closes' and turns on the generation of chlorine. So if the light that says the SWCG is generating is on, that is a sufficient rpm to run the pump at.
Hi, just checked again. FC at 21. Added 100oz of 10%. Brushed pool bottom. pool cover still open. Pump running at 1300rpm. Will check again in 2hrs.
Sorry to ask again, wife asked me to be cautious. Can kids swim if FC is 28 or lower?
Sorry to ask again, wife asked me to be cautious. Can kids swim if FC is 28 or lower?
- May 3, 2014
- 58,945
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
What parameters should I look for CYA/FC in order to allow them to swim today (it's hot here)?
How long should I wait (chlorine was added 1 hour ago)?
should I run the pump at higher ppm?
Lastly, is it ok to add an inch of water or will that mess up the measurements?
How long should I wait (chlorine was added 1 hour ago)?
should I run the pump at higher ppm?
Lastly, is it ok to add an inch of water or will that mess up the measurements?
- May 3, 2014
- 58,945
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Have you backwashed any during this?
Testing the CYA again would be a good idea.
You originally reported a CYA of 65, that is why we said to use 70 for CYA and 28 ppm for SLAM level FC. If your CYA is higher, then a higher FC is needed and may be why this is taking longer than I thought for a pool with CC but no visible algae.
Have you brushed or vacuumed any dead algae?
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You can add the water.
As long as the FC is at or below the SLAM level FC based on CYA as shown in [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA] they can swim.
No need to run the pump any faster.
After adding chlorine it is OK to swim after about 15 minutes with pump on.
Testing the CYA again would be a good idea.
You originally reported a CYA of 65, that is why we said to use 70 for CYA and 28 ppm for SLAM level FC. If your CYA is higher, then a higher FC is needed and may be why this is taking longer than I thought for a pool with CC but no visible algae.
Have you brushed or vacuumed any dead algae?
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You can add the water.
As long as the FC is at or below the SLAM level FC based on CYA as shown in [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA] they can swim.
No need to run the pump any faster.
After adding chlorine it is OK to swim after about 15 minutes with pump on.
Will do CYA again in a few minutes.
Have brushed and vacuumed but have not seen any algae
- - - Updated - - -
will the fact i added chlorine an hour ago affect the CYA level if I measure now?
- - - Updated - - -
will the fact i added chlorine an hour ago affect the CYA level if I measure now?
Have brushed and vacuumed but have not seen any algae
- - - Updated - - -
will the fact i added chlorine an hour ago affect the CYA level if I measure now?
- - - Updated - - -
will the fact i added chlorine an hour ago affect the CYA level if I measure now?
- May 3, 2014
- 58,945
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Chlorine does not effect CYA testing.
Any dust, etc in the pool when you vacuumed? Stuff that 'poofs' away when the brush or vac gets near it?
Any dust, etc in the pool when you vacuumed? Stuff that 'poofs' away when the brush or vac gets near it?
- May 3, 2014
- 58,945
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
OK --
This should be done, soon.
Read the article on Overnight Chlorine Loss Test. Do one tonight.
- - - Updated - - -
Just to check.
Do you have a light in the pool? If so, do you know how to take the light out of the niche? We have found members having algae inside them that mess up a SLAM process something terrible. Also the underside of your cover.
This should be done, soon.
Read the article on Overnight Chlorine Loss Test. Do one tonight.
- - - Updated - - -
Just to check.
Do you have a light in the pool? If so, do you know how to take the light out of the niche? We have found members having algae inside them that mess up a SLAM process something terrible. Also the underside of your cover.
Well, that's interesting. I do have a light that's very rarely used but I do not know how to take it out. Don't you need to lower water level below the light level or the whole thing will leak?
I have not checked underside of cover. It's an auto cover so I can't lift it out of its place. Should I just check for green/yellow/black on the underside?
I have not checked underside of cover. It's an auto cover so I can't lift it out of its place. Should I just check for green/yellow/black on the underside?
- May 3, 2014
- 58,945
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
The light, is it a large one? Does it have a metal rim around it?
If it is, there should be a screw at the top. You remove that screw and the ring swings down or comes off and the light can be taken to the deck as there is extra cord in the conduit.
This might help http://www.inyopools.com/HowToPage/how_to_replace_a_pool_light_bulb.aspx
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Just look at the underside of the cover.
If it is, there should be a screw at the top. You remove that screw and the ring swings down or comes off and the light can be taken to the deck as there is extra cord in the conduit.
This might help http://www.inyopools.com/HowToPage/how_to_replace_a_pool_light_bulb.aspx
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Just look at the underside of the cover.