New Member, not so new pool owner

Jun 12, 2017
53
Plano, Texas
Hello:

I am in Plano (suburb just north of Dallas) and I am going into my 12th season with a pool - still learning and found this site when I decided to try liquid chlorine. As you all seem to already know, and I finally realized, there is a better way. I am still trying to get accustomed to having to check chlorine so often though.

When I first acquired the pool, I was told just keep the floater full of pucks and throw 2 lbs of shock in every Sunday. I have had to do three drain and fills (100% drains) in 12 years. It is 13,600 gallons for the pool and another 800 for the spa (yes, huge spa addition) and constantly chasing green away. The only smart thing I have done is simply ignore the kids at the local pool store whose heads almost explode when I refuse to pour 2+quarts of PhosFree in the pool. Well, actually I did buy the $50 jug once, followed the pool store employee's suggestions and added more every week until it was gone. Then decided there was some voodoo science being performed and switched stores (same company brand, different location) and two different chemical reports on the same day showed vastly different information. Chlorine, Alkalinity, and PH were all reasonably close but dissolved solids, phosphates, calcium and CYA were all different some notably. Of course the second store says my phosphates are off the chart and I need to drain 2 or 3 feet of water and top off then add 2 qts of PhosFree . . .

This year when spring arrived, my pool went deep green. I have learned through trial and error, that there is a temperature range where algae forms faster, so still not realizing the CYA problem, I was dumping WAY TOO MUCH powder in the pool. Suffice it to say, when the pool was far more green than my yard, I had to learn a new way. The kid at the pool store had no clue, he said it was because "you must be using cheap chlorine". I responded, "Yes, your chlorine is cheap, it is not inexpensive, but it is obviously the cheap stuff in an expensive bucket." Non-plused, he merely suggested I try using calcium based shock instead from now on. Then the most stupid advice I ever heard - "drain about 10 inches of water and top off, bring us a sample and see if that gets the CYA down enough to make this stuff (holding up some little packet of chemical that supposedly lowers CYA) work for you." This from a kid that just told me the CYA was 100.

So, I started looking for options and found this forum. Based on what I read here, prior experience, and a desire to just start over, I drained the pool and refilled. Apparently I am not too smart, kid at the pool store tried to sell me "stabilizer" - luckily I had some, about half the amount they told me to add, which I used but no idea what the CYA level is. Most recent test from the pool store said 40 but the one the week before said 15 and I did not add any CYA in between, despite being told to do so. Makes me wonder if that niftily little computer at the store assumes I actually followed the prior instructions and adjust accordingly.

I have lots of questions BTW.
 
Makes me wonder if that niftily little computer at the store assumes I actually followed the prior instructions and adjust accordingly.
We know the feeling! Welcome to TFP! :wave:
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Okay, so you've been through the pool store torture. Now it's time to take charge and do things right and not empty that pool again. Step 1 - get yourself one of the proper test kits. We recommend either the TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C. I have the TF-100 (link below) and love it. My pool has never been the same. I would also encourage getting the magnetic speedstir for great mixing. :stirpot:

With the right test it, the rest it much easier than you think. Make sure to review/bookmark the vital links below in my sig, and don't forget to update your signature as well. :wink: Great to have you with us.
 
pa,

Welcome to TFP... A Great resource for all pool owning attorneys... :drown:

Well, it appears to me you are about halfway there.. You now realize that having your water tested at the same place that sells you chemicals is a... what do you attorneys this??? Oh! yes.. a conflict of interest... :p

The other half is reading our Pool School (Link at the top of this page) and getting your own accurate test kit.. I use the TF-100, but the Taylor K-2006C (yes the "C" is important) will also work. I also suggest the Speed-Stir because I can't swirl the test tube, add drops and count all at the same time... :( It will also make testing easier, quicker, and more accurate.

I have three pools in the DFW area and have been following the TFP process for over three years. None of them has ever turned green, I never add bags of "shock" on a weekly basis, and my pools do not smell like a public pools. And of course my water is always crystal clear...

Thanks for coming over from the dark side, and looking forward to your cross examination... :cool:

Jim R.
 
Thanks. I will have to figure out the sig part. I like the vital links on yours. I had already bookmarked the PoolCalculator.com and have been using it. Is it the same as the Poolmath calculator on your links?

My current test kit is the one I got from the pool store, it tests only Cl, TA, PH, and acid demand. Actually, there is one bottle in that kit I have never opened, so it tests something else, just don't know what. If you don't mind, why the FT-100 over the K-2006C or vice versa? Is it just a matter of preference. Cost appears to be fairly similar in a quick search and I am sure with effort one or the other could be found on sale if $ were the deciding factor.

One thing I forgot to put in my original post is that after I did the fresh fill this year, and reading about borates on this site and others (kid at pool store said he never heard of borates in a pool - ironically, that sealed the decision for me) I added 14 boxes of Borax. The pool calculator reveals that would push my borates up to 54 and the test strips I got confirm this. Too early to tell if it was a good decision but the water looks good.
 
The difference between the test kits is focused mainly on value and amount of reagents. You can see more about that here: Pool School - Test Kits Compared Keep in mind the TF-100 also has Taylor reagents in it along with other products designed to meet all of your testing needs. But either will work.

For the calculator, the link below in my sig or the button at the top of the web page go to the same Poolmath calculator you'll want to use. Some other sites/links are not updated anymore. Hope that helps.
 
My new FTF100 kit arrived today. It was interesting to get the results myself and know I have them correct - but . . . I still have questions. Here is what I learned from my first test: Chlorine was 0.5 but it did rain this morning (an inch or more) before the sun came out and my pool has zero shade and lots of afternoon sun. Plus, since switching to liquid, I add chlorine in late afternoon early evening.

PH was high ~8.0 range. Alkalinity=110, Calcium=350, CYA=30, Borates =>50 and FC = 0.5. Curious enough, the TFT-100 does not have R-009 to help determine the amount of acid to put in. I had some left from my pool store kit, it indicated I needed at least 1.2 quarts and my chart says that same amount of muratic acid will bring TA down to 100 - so I added it in.

I also added 1 qt of chlorine - I have always gone to Leslies, a client suggested I visit A-1 pools, they are very close (less than 2 miles) and I discovered they carry 12.5% bleach manufactured locally and they get a shipment every week from the manufacturer that they keep in indoors when it arrives so it should be good and the price was less than $5 per gal. The CL added according to the PoolMath Calculator should bring my CL up to 3.

1. How long after adding bleach before I can test again and expect accurate results?
2. Multiple posts say to add enough bleach to maintain the level you want. Dumb question here, but does that mean if I want to maintain 3PPM, add enough now that it is still 3PPM tomorrow evening, or bring it to just over 3PPM now, so that it is about .5 as the sun sets tomorrow then add enough to bring it back to 3PPM? Which way is correct? My water right now is crystal but I also started with a fresh fill (city water) this Spring.
3. How can my CYA change? Or is that part of my education and I need to ignore the results I got from Leslies?
4. Is there a good way to determine how much CYA is enough? I have used tabs in the past and had to drain every 2 or 3 years, so I am shy about CYA - I know what it does but part of me wants it as low as possible to still do the job. But, a little buffer in case I forget a day or want to go somewhere overnight would be nice too. I know that at some point it simply binds up chlorine and all the chemistry goes off the rails.
5. How often should I do an OCLT?
6. How often should I SLAM? Is this an only as needed thing? Should I shock on a regular basis or just SLAM as needed. I.e. will shocking increase or decrease the need to SLAM and it is better to just SLAM once a month and keep chlorine fairly constant the rest of the time?


I know question #6 is a little elementary but keep in mind, I have been told by the pool chemical supplier to "keep the floater full of tabs and pull a water sample before shocking every week" which is what I did for 12 years. Simply adding some chlorine each evening seems too easy.