New heater came in. Still not getting hot.

It wasn't getting hot so i figured that it needed a new heater.
I'm sure it worked as well, like this one does, but the problem seems to be that it heats, stops, then jets turn on. It doesn't keep the heater on while jets are running. I can tell that its heating up because i touch the heater and feel it getting hot once those "click click" sounds kick in.

The filter isn't an open pipe. its got some kind of plastic. I don't know if something made it through those holes. A dime wont fit. Maybe tiny rocks or straws can make it.

I'll check out a shop and see how much it will cost to have it fixed. Will an alternator (for cars) be somewhere to take it to? Or what do i look for exactly? Im in los angeles.
How much will a new one cost?

So far, I've spent: $140 on a new heater so I'm not too worried about spending a little more if that's what it takes.
 

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Yeah, anything that made it past that grate made it to the pump, so no worries there.
It's usually around $100 to get it rebuilt. New complete pump assembly will run about $300 or so.
But it runs the pump in low speed while heating, right? Then it shows an error and turns on high speed?
 
I feel the heater get hot ONLY when the pump is off.
Once the pump turns on, new (cold) water comes in and makes the heater cold to the touch again.
So I dont know if its still heating when the water starts flowing through again.

The high speed jets only turn on when I manually push the jet button. Otherwise, once I connect it and walk away, only the low jets will turn on.
 
The pump should only run low for automated functions (heating and filtering) and high when button is pushed if low is already on. The heater should not work if pump is turned off, but would continue to run if pump is shutting off from internal motor overheat (thermal cutoff).
I begin to suspect that you may have a stuck heater relay causing it to run when it should not. Does the pump shut off when the pump indicator is still on?
 
The pump should only run low for automated functions (heating and filtering) and high when button is pushed if low is already on. The heater should not work if pump is turned off, but would continue to run if pump is shutting off from internal motor overheat (thermal cutoff).
I begin to suspect that you may have a stuck heater relay causing it to run when it should not. Does the pump shut off when the pump indicator is still on?

Do you mean heat indicator? There isnt any indicator for the pump (that I can see)
 
Are you saying that the heater is only working when the pump is off and not circulating at all? Or when it's on low speed you feel the heater working and then when you turn it on high speed you feel it's not working? I just just verified something similar on a tub I'm trying to get working. You need an Amp meter to do it though. With the probe clamped on one of the hot legs, turn your spa on, it should start circulating on low and the heater will come on. You verify that the heater is working by how many amps it's reading on the meter. Low speed pump and heater were about 22 amps on mine. When you hit the button for the jets, you'll see the heater drop off and the amps for the pump on high speed will show, probably 10-15 amps. The amp meter is the easy way to verify your heater is working.
 
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Also, the technician wrote down that the low speed has the issue.

He labeled it as a 220v pump. Should I be looking for a 110v replacement? Or will it work just fine if I replace it with the exact pump?
 

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Yikes! I have been undercharging. Is that in pesos?
I have to say, it is quite rare for one speed of a motor to go out. You might want to remove the pump and bring it to an electric motor shop for a second opinion. It could just be a bad capacitor.
This is a different brand and the base is different, so may need a bit of adjustment with the motor supports and the outflow pipe may need to have a coupling plumbed in to compensate for the difference depending on the amount of play. The exact pump is nearly $100 more, a coupling and some Christy's glue will be less than $10 at home depot, so I would go that route. You might not even need it.
I would get some new o-rings as well.
 
Yikes! I have been undercharging. Is that in pesos?
I have to say, it is quite rare for one speed of a motor to go out. You might want to remove the pump and bring it to an electric motor shop for a second opinion. It could just be a bad capacitor.
This is a different brand and the base is different, so may need a bit of adjustment with the motor supports and the outflow pipe may need to have a coupling plumbed in to compensate for the difference depending on the amount of play. The exact pump is nearly $100 more, a coupling and some Christy's glue will be less than $10 at home depot, so I would go that route. You might not even need it.
I would get some new o-rings as well.

It's how it goes in Los Angeles. Overcharge until customers say no. Then adjust to it.

I am a spa moving service. But know nothing about hot tubs and am terrible with tools (still don't know how to use a volt/ohm meter etc).

Come to Los Angeles and apparently a spa repair guy is booked for 2 weeks because there aren't many.

This hot tub is for me and my family so I'm learning by default, but just want to have it running. I rent and don't think the landlord would allow us to get a 220v so I'm doing all I can to get this spa going.

Most people that have hot tubs here live in larger properties. They usually don't care about our moving prices. I came here for my personal spa and not to promote or advertise my business (try to get away from that when I can) so trust me when I say, if you came to Los Angeles, you would kill it.

I removed a hot tub today and got a pump that says 5hp. Not sure if it will work. But here is the picture. (not sure how much horse power a 120v gets etc...

I'll buy a pump no problem, but before I do, since this pump was free, do you think it will work? (it came from a 220v spa)
 
No. Thats a 230 volt motor. Yours is 115v.
If you went to cities like Malibu, Calabasas, Pacific Palisades, Beverly Hills, you could charge more that my repair guy did. I've been in business since 2005 (not spa related) and I've realized that these people want "now + Profesional service" and will overpay if you came "right now". Plus, people are busy, most calls, believe it or not, go to voicemail (which is a sin here) so if you answer and know your stuff, you will get what you're asking for if you can go today/tonight.
 
I have lived in Commiefornia for about a year. My wife is from Bishop, near Mammoth ski resort. We lived around Tahoe (on the nevada side) for 3 years too. Beautiful country. Never spent any more time in the south than it took to get to and from LAX. That was one of the most frightening driving experiences of my life. Those people are CRAZY!
This is as close as I can find. The motor base is still different, so the back 2 motor supports would have to be moved up but the plumbing will line up. It may also require splicing in the old plug or cord, not sure.
 
I have lived in Commiefornia for about a year. My wife is from Bishop, near Mammoth ski resort. We lived around Tahoe (on the nevada side) for 3 years too. Beautiful country. Never spent any more time in the south than it took to get to and from LAX. That was one of the most frightening driving experiences of my life. Those people are CRAZY!
This is as close as I can find. The motor base is still different, so the back 2 motor supports would have to be moved up but the plumbing will line up. It may also require splicing in the old plug or cord, not sure.

Purchased! Thank you for the help. Spa mechanics has been stressful to say the least
 
I have lived in Commiefornia for about a year. My wife is from Bishop, near Mammoth ski resort. We lived around Tahoe (on the nevada side) for 3 years too. Beautiful country. Never spent any more time in the south than it took to get to and from LAX. That was one of the most frightening driving experiences of my life. Those people are CRAZY!
This is as close as I can find. The motor base is still different, so the back 2 motor supports would have to be moved up but the plumbing will line up. It may also require splicing in the old plug or cord, not sure.

Is this pump also possible? It's about $100 less but I don't know the spec compatability side of it
 

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