New Gunite Pool - Carroll County MD - PICTURES

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Sounds like a good meeting in the negotiation process.
 
The plumber is willing to fix their mistake. Good news. Bad news is they want to drain the pool 3 feet to do the work? Not sure what 3 feet will do since the main drain is in the deep end at 7.5 feet deep.... Since it is new plaster, we cant drain the pool for a while. Anyone know why they would need to drain 3 feet? I asked and they said, "that's what the plumber said"
 
I'm not a plumber, but looking at your diagram from the instruction manual, I'm thinking the 3 feet water drain is to get the water below the 90 deg heading back to the pump. If the water is higher than that 90 deg, then gravity would push the water out the pipe, while the plumber is working on it. That's my thought about it?
 
Probably just to get the water level below the lowest point they will be doing any cutting into pipes to do the re-plumbing. 3' is probably erring on the side of making sure it's low enough and not having to pump more out once they get there causing a delay to their work. Glad they are stepping up...but sad for the intrusion into the concrete, just a fact of life. I would have them cut a nice square or rectangle around the cut. Then with an expansion joint there it won't look bad assuming they get the finish and coloration to look the same or close. Who's doing the concrete cutting? That part would be my biggest concern. If they don't do it cleanly or the right way, it may be harder to fix. Are the plumbers paying for the concrete redo too? Get the details (preferably in writing) on all aspects of the repair before it begins, whatever they are, to reduce any further disagreements or work not done to expectations - you've had enough issues for several pool builds. It all looks really nice! How much time do they want to wait for the new plaster before lowering the water level?
 
Thanks for the replies. They (the plumber) have been very cooperative and responsive to the issue. I am very appreciative.

I was told to wait at the very least 30 days before emptying the pool but preferably 90 days (per plaster company). As for who would be performing each part of the repair, I'm still working on the details as we have some time since the plaster is only 10 days old.

I understand the thought of getting the water level down and I'm no expert BUT couldn't they just plug the main drain, plug the equalizer line into the pool, shut of the main drain valve to the pump and empty the pump (ensure no accidental back flow)? That seems like the most logical fix as there would be no water flowing through the only pipe they need to work on. Again I'm not an expert but at this point my concern would be the plaster since it is so new. I've read it takes months to cure and I would hate to have another issue to deal with after fixing this one.
 
Wow. I just stumbled on your post while searching for a solution to the exact same MVFuse issue. Congratulations on a beautiful pool.

Reading your posts was kind of like re-opening a still fresh wound. We used the same pool builder. I don't wish to speak kill of the dead, but I have few kind thoughts for the late majority owner. He really left a lot of people, including his own family, in a world of hurt with his financial shenanigans before taking his own life.

We started our build in December and were supposed to be done by May. They got us to tile and coping before going belly-up. We ended up buying our equipment online and lining up our own subs to finish the plaster and startup. We're out about 2x-3x what you were, but plaster was done last week and we're breaking in our new pool now.

In any case, I'm curious about the MVFuse issue and I'm guessing that you had ZERO suction from your main drain, right? I'm also curious whether you were able to get the plumber (I'm guessing we have the same one based in TX) to cover the cost to rip out and replace the decking. PM me if your prefer.
 
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