New from Florida

Hotswopp

New member
Mar 2, 2020
3
DeLand, FL
Hello! Bought a new home here in sunny Florida with a huge in ground pool 5 years ago. Est 30k gallons, second year put in a swg, 3rd year put in a heat pump for my wife to enjoy a little longer swim season.
Everything was good until last year, swg failed didn’t catch for about 5 days when it went from crystal clear to swamp. Had the pool company out they said the cell just needed to be cleaned. They cleaned it straight acid. Told me to run it at shock level for 3 days and we should be good. Three days later and now I have a lovely “creature from the black lagoon” instead of a pool.

2 weeks later they finally accepted the cell was bad and gave me a replacement. Spent the rest of last season trying to play catch up, finally got it clean and ready to swim right around august. Was frustrated but swam for about 2 weeks and enjoyed it. Over the winter I turn the heater off, but keep my pump running at least 6 hours as that seems to be what it takes for about 1 turn over. Once the temp drops under 60 I do not really have any problems with algae.

This winter I have had some small black spots appear. Also a swath down the middle of the shallow end where I did not brush well enough. They are getting larger even with the cold water and decent fc.

Now starting up for this season early and the black spots are getting worse. Need to get ahead of this if possible. I shocked the pool weekend before last. 6 bags of shock about double what it says I need to shock it hard. Swg is still off, but I have started bringing up the salt level.
Got the pool math app and did my first real tests tonight. Need more salt, calc and soda but I have a nice high fc of 100.
Hope this season starts and ends better this year :)
 
Welcome! By real test you mean one of thisTest Kits Compared? Can you post some test results? Also fill your signature with your pool info so we can help you better. If you really have a FC of 100 then your CYA is 300-400, which is off the charts. You will probably have to do a drain and refill, but first post test result with one of the kits mentioned above.
 
Wow. How did you test your FC at 100ppm? Please don't put ANYthing else in that water until we are sure you're testing accurately with a reliable test kit, and we can help you assess this situation better. Which kit are you using? Can you tell us:
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
as well as is this a vinyl, fiberglass or plaster pool?

Can you tell us all the chemicals you've been using on the pool? Any algaecides containing copper??

Tossing in "bags of shock" willy nilly does not fix the problem if each bag also contains yet more stabilizer (CYA). That is just raising the bar on what its going to take to kill the algae.

Have you read/watched the basics here- ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
SLAM Process
FC/CYA Levels



We're happy to help you but we need to know we're all speaking the same pool language :)

Maddie :flower:
 
So a K-2005 test kit is missing the most important test part- the FAS-DPD test. Its the drop based test to test FC at high numbers as well as test for CCs.
You can order just that test kit and your kit will be approximate to the K-2006 we recommend.

Maddie :flower:
Sorry so long in replying things have been hectic at work with the covi-d. I work in a VA clinic “IT” tech and every one is nervous.
The test kit is actually a K-2006. Had to go look at the front of the box to make sure. It does test for fas-dpd.