Hi. Brand new pool owner here, and glad to have found this site (albeit a little too late). I was sold the Frog Leap system, and have quickly realized what a rip-off it is...oh well, live and learn. Anyway, I’m stocked up a bit on “torpedo packs” (chlorine), and obviously have a new mineral filter, so do you guys think I should ride it out for this pool season before trying to switch to the TFPC? Currently struggling a bit with low pH and alkalinity, but have had the solar cover on for a couple weeks and was told that might be causing my problem. I also just added borax today. I only have test strips right now, but my pH looked to be about 6.8 and alkalinity about 40 today. Chlorine level is ok by Frog standards and water is nice and clear. Any advise is appreciated.
New Frog Pool...
- Thread starter Kidkoffee
- Start date
- May 3, 2014
- 58,361
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Welcome to the forum!
My first suggestion is to get a proper test kit - see Test Kits Compared. I suggest the TF-100 Test Kit ™
I would also say to remove the mineral pack. It really does nothing for you but eventually stain your pool and turn blonde hair green.
The trichlor packs, depending on what test results are when you get your kit, may be able to be used some, but most likely it is time to go to liquid chlorine, primarily.
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry and consider reviewing the entire Pool School eBook.
My first suggestion is to get a proper test kit - see Test Kits Compared. I suggest the TF-100 Test Kit ™
I would also say to remove the mineral pack. It really does nothing for you but eventually stain your pool and turn blonde hair green.
The trichlor packs, depending on what test results are when you get your kit, may be able to be used some, but most likely it is time to go to liquid chlorine, primarily.
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry and consider reviewing the entire Pool School eBook.
Welcome to TFP!!!You should switch to TFP of course ... but serious by that I mean invest in one of the recommended test kits (see Test Kits Compared ... I suggest the TF-100 is the best value) and start test your water and balancing it properly. You might be able to get away with continuing to use the chlorine packs (depends on your test results), but you should STOP using the mineral packs that are adding metal to your water.
Check out Pool School, starting with ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
Right, thanks guys. I’ve already browsed much of the information in the Pool School section of this site, but was thinking at the time I’d probably have to ride it out for the rest of the year before switching. Guess I’m going to order a proper test kit today and start giving this a go. I use a water testing kit sometimes at work (troubleshooting laundry and ware-wash results issues), so I’m thinking I should pick this up pretty quickly if I’m pointed in the right direction. I test water hardness, pH, bicarbonate alkalinity, and residual chlorine mainly, but my job is mostly fixing mechanical issues.
Welcome fellow NW Ohioan. Whether you ride out the Frog or not you can still begin testing and maintaining your pool the TFP way. I did for a short while after joining the site before I decided to rip out the thing once and for all. The important thing is to test with a good kit and keep the levels in line, regardless of how you chlorinate.
I will say though, if your pH and TA numbers are correct (and with test strips it's a big IF) then you want to get those adjusted. Trichlor, the type of chlorine you are currently using, is very acidic so you want to get your TA up to at least 90 if you plan to keep using them for much longer.
I will say though, if your pH and TA numbers are correct (and with test strips it's a big IF) then you want to get those adjusted. Trichlor, the type of chlorine you are currently using, is very acidic so you want to get your TA up to at least 90 if you plan to keep using them for much longer.
Great. Using TFP with the Frog was going to be my next question. I just ordered the TF-100 test kit from the link provided above, so I’ll begin testing as soon as I get it. Hoping for advise on a plan of action if I can post my water parameters here. Kids have eczema, so acidic water is not good...Thanks.
BTW neighbor, I’m sure you haven’t had to worry about topping off the pool this year lol...We were one of the first pools installed (Apr 11). Filled it up right away, and have been draining water out ever since. Unreal.
Haha, yeah, that's for sure. Luckily our above ground pool is self-draining. It just flows out the top of the skimmer. Today was the first day we have managed to get out there and enjoy the pool, warmed up just in time to leave for a long weekend of course 
I have seen several people on the forum who deal with eczema say that by following TFPC rather than the industry standard level parameters they have enjoyed the water much more than ever. Of course managing pH is important, but following the FC/CYA Levels makes sure there is nothing in the water to aggravate the condition. Hopefully your kids will agree that it is one of the more comfortable swimming experiences. The chlorine levels may seem counter-intuitive at first, especially when the Frog sells itself on how great using lower chlorine levels are. However, once you factor in the buffering effect of CYA and how keeping chlorine too low can allow other irritants to build up in the water, it starts to make sense why the levels are where they are.
I have seen several people on the forum who deal with eczema say that by following TFPC rather than the industry standard level parameters they have enjoyed the water much more than ever. Of course managing pH is important, but following the FC/CYA Levels makes sure there is nothing in the water to aggravate the condition. Hopefully your kids will agree that it is one of the more comfortable swimming experiences. The chlorine levels may seem counter-intuitive at first, especially when the Frog sells itself on how great using lower chlorine levels are. However, once you factor in the buffering effect of CYA and how keeping chlorine too low can allow other irritants to build up in the water, it starts to make sense why the levels are where they are.
Okay, so I just got my test kit today, and my numbers were: FC-3, PH-7, TA-70, CH-100, CYA-20. This is after already adding 2 boxes (130oz) of Borax, and 4lbs of Baking soda in the last few days based on my low test strip readings. I downloaded the TFP app, which is awesome! Based on the app’s recommendations, I added another box of Borax today, and ordered some calcium chloride and stabilizer which will be here Monday. It’s absolutely crazy to me that my water was this far off right out of the gates with this “trouble free” Frog system I was sold! This is what I get for not doing my usual research before buying this pool.
Also, I want to remove this mineral filter now based on your advise. I’m assuming I will need to get a sand or cartridge filter to replace it. Any recommendations for my 24’ round (14K gal) pool? I have a 2-speed, 1hp pump that I’d like to keep and use. I have been running the pump on low speed almost continuously btw per salesman’s recommendation. I was leaning toward a 200-300 sf cartridge filter based on what I’ve read (bigger = better/less maintenance?). Any and all advise is greatly appreciated. Brand preferences? Thanks.
Also, I want to remove this mineral filter now based on your advise. I’m assuming I will need to get a sand or cartridge filter to replace it. Any recommendations for my 24’ round (14K gal) pool? I have a 2-speed, 1hp pump that I’d like to keep and use. I have been running the pump on low speed almost continuously btw per salesman’s recommendation. I was leaning toward a 200-300 sf cartridge filter based on what I’ve read (bigger = better/less maintenance?). Any and all advise is greatly appreciated. Brand preferences? Thanks.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,361
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Great job on the test results.
You do not need to add any more borax and you do not need to add any calcium chloride. Your pool is a vinyl liner pool, it does not need any calcium.
The mineral cartridge is not a filter. You all ready have a filter. Just remove the mineral cartridge.
You do not need to add any more borax and you do not need to add any calcium chloride. Your pool is a vinyl liner pool, it does not need any calcium.
The mineral cartridge is not a filter. You all ready have a filter. Just remove the mineral cartridge.
Great thanks. Just in time to cancel the order. I’m assuming the mineral cartridge is in the same housing as the filter cartridge then? Attached is a pic of the entire setup.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,361
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
The mineral cartridge is in the same housing as the Trichlor cartridge, which you also do not want to use.
No picture.
No picture.
Sorry pic didn’t go through...but I will check. Must be a small unit then. Thanks again.