Hi! We just installed a SW Fibreglass 8,000 gallon pool two weeks ago. We have a Pentair intelliflo 2 VST, and an electrical heater. We have it set for 85 but, due to the heat wave, we are up around 90. I added 1L of muriatic acid and one stab tab two days ago and another litre of MA yesterday but nothing is budging. We have almost no free chlorine and the ph is in the 8.4 range (Aqua check test strips). There was tonnes of white flaking and sand in the pool, so yesterday I took the filter apart and cleaned out a HUGE amount of sand inside the filter tub and 4 filters, which had been vacuumed up during the installation. The bottom of the filter tub was full of about 8 inches of sand and the filters were totally clogged. Today it is looking less foggy but the levels are the same. Should I add another litre of acid? What else might I do to get the water balanced? I'm reading that I need to add chlorine but I don't know the form or the quantity. Thanks for any help.
New Fibreglass Salt water pool
- Thread starter mshippest
- Start date
- Jun 22, 2014
- 48,268
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Hello and welcome to TFP! 
Your #1 disadvantage right now is not having a good test kit. Down south here in the states we have two options - the TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C test kit. If you travel to the US, you can order a TF-100 and pick it up yourself. Or you can order the Taylor K-2006C test kit (proprietary reasons) which is sold exclusively to our neighbors up north. But you need one of those as soon as possible.
Your pH is rising for various reasons such as excessively high TA and/or too much aeration. While waiting for your test kit, I would also shop around for places that sell liquid chlorine or regular household bleach (plain - NO splashless, scented, or fabric softener products). That's what you want to use to increase your FC level.
Please review/save the Vital Links below in my signature, and don't forget to update yours as well. Once you get the proper test kit, post a full set of numbers and we'll walk you through it. Don't forget to also review the ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry page. It's a great place to start.
Your #1 disadvantage right now is not having a good test kit. Down south here in the states we have two options - the TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C test kit. If you travel to the US, you can order a TF-100 and pick it up yourself. Or you can order the Taylor K-2006C test kit (proprietary reasons) which is sold exclusively to our neighbors up north. But you need one of those as soon as possible.Your pH is rising for various reasons such as excessively high TA and/or too much aeration. While waiting for your test kit, I would also shop around for places that sell liquid chlorine or regular household bleach (plain - NO splashless, scented, or fabric softener products). That's what you want to use to increase your FC level.
Please review/save the Vital Links below in my signature, and don't forget to update yours as well. Once you get the proper test kit, post a full set of numbers and we'll walk you through it. Don't forget to also review the ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry page. It's a great place to start.
Thanks so very much! The installer never told us to add chlorine at any time. He said that SWG does everything! HA HA! I was reading Pool School and the ABC's page. I will get some liquid chlorine. Should I add more MA?
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 48,268
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Thanks for the pool info. Now that we know you have a SWG, it tells us a few things:
- Your SWG "should" produce the required FC assuming the correct amount of salt was added and is operating properly.
- At TFP, we recommend a higher CYA level to help preserve the FC made by the SWG. Please see the [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]. Minimum CYA of 70 for salt pools.
- You can use the regular bleach to augment FC increases until you get everything "dialed-in" properly.
In your situation, you should also take a look at:
Pool School - Determine Pump Run Time
Pool School - Water Balance for SWGs
Always try to keep the pH below 7.8, ideally in the mid-7s usually. Hope that helps.
- Your SWG "should" produce the required FC assuming the correct amount of salt was added and is operating properly.
- At TFP, we recommend a higher CYA level to help preserve the FC made by the SWG. Please see the [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]. Minimum CYA of 70 for salt pools.
- You can use the regular bleach to augment FC increases until you get everything "dialed-in" properly.
In your situation, you should also take a look at:
Pool School - Determine Pump Run Time
Pool School - Water Balance for SWGs
Always try to keep the pH below 7.8, ideally in the mid-7s usually. Hope that helps.
Hello,
In your signature list the make and size of your saltwater generator. Also post what setting it's on.
In your signature list the make and size of your saltwater generator. Also post what setting it's on.
Hello,
In the absence of a proper kit, I brought a sample to the pool store.
FC 1.3
TC 1.58
CC .28
PH 7.7
Hardness 194 ppm
Alk 116 ppm
CYA 2 ppm
Copper 0
iron 0
Phosphate 85
SALT 4277!! I didn't read the fine print that blinking green means it's too high. Solid green means at level. It's been blinking green for several days and the salt has climbed since the last test!
They recommend adding stabilizer pucks but I have 1.5 in the skimmer and it isn't budging. It took 4L of muriatic acid to get it down to 7.7 but I think I need another L?
I am currently draining my pool a few inches to add fresh water to get the salt level down. I have also turned it down to 20% from 40%. Any other thoughts much appreciated.
In the absence of a proper kit, I brought a sample to the pool store.
FC 1.3
TC 1.58
CC .28
PH 7.7
Hardness 194 ppm
Alk 116 ppm
CYA 2 ppm
Copper 0
iron 0
Phosphate 85
SALT 4277!! I didn't read the fine print that blinking green means it's too high. Solid green means at level. It's been blinking green for several days and the salt has climbed since the last test!
They recommend adding stabilizer pucks but I have 1.5 in the skimmer and it isn't budging. It took 4L of muriatic acid to get it down to 7.7 but I think I need another L?
I am currently draining my pool a few inches to add fresh water to get the salt level down. I have also turned it down to 20% from 40%. Any other thoughts much appreciated.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 48,268
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Well, you know here we always caution owners about doing too much based on pool store tests :blah: :blah:, but based on those results, you are changing some water to lower the salt. As soon as you finish draining, get a little more bleach in there to increase the FC level to about 3ppm. Also, use granule stabilizer to increase the CYA. If you have no signs of algae, then increase the CYA to 70. If you suspect ANY algae (green, cloudiness, etc) let us know. Remember to refer to those links I gave you above. They'll help each day. Most importantly though ..... you must get a proper test kit. It will save you a lot of headaches later. Always keep the FC and CYA balanced as noted on the [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA].
Thank you, thank you! Re: Pool store tests: I know...I know... but, being a Canuck, I need to order the test online and they are a FORTUNE! The local store has a centrifuge attached to the computer and they aren't doing the old buy buy buy, so I do have a little faith. Just a little.
Any idea what might have driven the salt up? They added 6 bags at first start up for 8000 gallons.
Are you saying that you prefer the granular CYA to the puck stabilizer?
Nancy
Any idea what might have driven the salt up? They added 6 bags at first start up for 8000 gallons.
Are you saying that you prefer the granular CYA to the puck stabilizer?
Nancy
- Jul 21, 2013
- 54,089
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
PoolMath says 240lbs of salt should give you 3600ppm in 8000 gallons. What we don’t know is how much salt was in your pool or fill water first. 240lbs is 6 40lb bags of salt.
Salt testing is very imprecise and can be +/-500 ppm.
What SWG do you have and exactly what are the lights?
We prefer granular CYA which only adds CYA. Pucks add other stuff.
Just because your pool store is using fancy testing equipment does not mean their tests are accurate or reproduciable. Chemical drop tests are more reliable.
Hi thank you!
Our SWG is an Intellichlor IC20 blinking high salt which correlates with the pool store. I reduced the SO to 20% from 40% and drained 6 inches of water, which I am replacing with tap water. I will try granulated CYA.
Thank you.
Nancy
Our SWG is an Intellichlor IC20 blinking high salt which correlates with the pool store. I reduced the SO to 20% from 40% and drained 6 inches of water, which I am replacing with tap water. I will try granulated CYA.
Thank you.
Nancy
- Jul 21, 2013
- 54,089
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Intellichlor manual is here --> https://pentairpool.com/~/media/websites/pool/downloads/sanitizers/manuals/intellichlor_owners_manual_version_3_units_after_nov_2011_english.pdf
See page 7. High salt light blinking is a warning. The cell does not shut down on high salt. It will still generate normally.
Thanks Allen, Caroline, and Texas Splash,
I appreciate the link. I do have the manual, and I reread page 7, but I'm not sure what you are trying to say. Could you clarify for me?
Both the pool store and my SWG are saying the salt is too high. I have decreased the output to 20% and dropped the water, refilling it with at least 6" with tap water. I have used the Pool Math and it is recommending 16% of the water be replaced.
One thought...can the addition of liquid chlorine drive up salt levels? I added some a few days ago. Other than the CYA, the salt is my only concern. I read that high salt is really damaging.
Lastly, what is Borate? I understand that it is also a salt. I'm not sure where it is tested or how important it is.
Thank you again,
Nancy
I appreciate the link. I do have the manual, and I reread page 7, but I'm not sure what you are trying to say. Could you clarify for me?
Both the pool store and my SWG are saying the salt is too high. I have decreased the output to 20% and dropped the water, refilling it with at least 6" with tap water. I have used the Pool Math and it is recommending 16% of the water be replaced.
One thought...can the addition of liquid chlorine drive up salt levels? I added some a few days ago. Other than the CYA, the salt is my only concern. I read that high salt is really damaging.
Lastly, what is Borate? I understand that it is also a salt. I'm not sure where it is tested or how important it is.
Thank you again,
Nancy
- May 3, 2014
- 58,989
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Welcome to the forum! :handshake:
Your SWCG still generates chlorine even with a High Salt warning. The Pentair SWCG's do not shut down on high salt.
Sodium Hypochlorite does add salt to your pool water. In very minuscule amounts. Less that you can ever test for with residential level test equipment.
Borates are added to reduce pH rise. You do not need them.
I did not see where you stated your pump run time each day. With your setting of 20% on the SWCG you will barely make enough chlorine each day if you run your pump 24 hours per day.
Your SWCG still generates chlorine even with a High Salt warning. The Pentair SWCG's do not shut down on high salt.
Sodium Hypochlorite does add salt to your pool water. In very minuscule amounts. Less that you can ever test for with residential level test equipment.
Borates are added to reduce pH rise. You do not need them.
I did not see where you stated your pump run time each day. With your setting of 20% on the SWCG you will barely make enough chlorine each day if you run your pump 24 hours per day.
Thank you Marty!
My pool installer told me to drop to 20% because the salt was high. He also said to dump a bunch of water and replace, which I have done.
We run 8 a.m. - 12:00 a.m. at 2100.
Was wondering how generating chlorine would affect salt levels...hence, why would I stop generating chlorine? hmmmm.
Thank you,
Nancy
My pool installer told me to drop to 20% because the salt was high. He also said to dump a bunch of water and replace, which I have done.
We run 8 a.m. - 12:00 a.m. at 2100.
Was wondering how generating chlorine would affect salt levels...hence, why would I stop generating chlorine? hmmmm.
Thank you,
Nancy
- May 3, 2014
- 58,989
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Salt content and what % you set your SWCG are meaningless. I do not think the person whom told you that has any idea how a SWCG works.
You really do not need to run your pump that much or at that high of a RPM to just generate chlorine. I run mine for 6 hours per day.
Consider downloading SWG Run Time Calculator. I use it. Your IC20 can create 0.7 lbs of chlorine gas per day at 100% setting.
You really do not need to run your pump that much or at that high of a RPM to just generate chlorine. I run mine for 6 hours per day.
Consider downloading SWG Run Time Calculator. I use it. Your IC20 can create 0.7 lbs of chlorine gas per day at 100% setting.
Hello. I downloaded your file to drop box but I can't alter the values. And thank you for sharing! Do I need to launch in excel?
- May 3, 2014
- 58,989
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Good morning,
I am happy to say that as of last night my little green light was solid. WHEW. Now to calculate SWG run times...I woke up this morning to the pump running and I remembered that he set it to run on a higher RPM for a short time in the morning to "stir things up". So in addition to the other 8 am - 12:00 a.m at 2100, we have a few hours even higher that I didn't notice in the schedule.
I am entering values in your excel file (and thank you again!). I am not sure how to calculate the FC demand. I have searched on this site and I'm not finding it.
Thanks again,
Nancy
I am happy to say that as of last night my little green light was solid. WHEW. Now to calculate SWG run times...I woke up this morning to the pump running and I remembered that he set it to run on a higher RPM for a short time in the morning to "stir things up". So in addition to the other 8 am - 12:00 a.m at 2100, we have a few hours even higher that I didn't notice in the schedule.
I am entering values in your excel file (and thank you again!). I am not sure how to calculate the FC demand. I have searched on this site and I'm not finding it.
Thanks again,
Nancy
- May 3, 2014
- 58,989
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
In your climate start with FC demand of 3 ppm per day. So you will be adding that amount each day. Be sure to bring your FC in the pool to Target level shown [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA] with bleach/liquid chlorine.
Hello,
I am wondering how this looks to you, and if you could suggest an RPM, since you said that 2100 seems too high.
Thanks again,
Nancy