New Fiberglass Pool - Day 2 after startup

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drewwestrick

Member
Jul 17, 2022
17
Carmel, IN
Here are first set of test results:
FC: 2
CC: 0-0.25 (very faint pink, totally colorless with 1 drop)
PH: 7.7
TA: 210
CH: 150
CYA: <20 (not cloudy at all on test)

For the most part I’m not trying to interfere too my much, since my builder said they would handle startup and manage chemicals until pool school. That being said, I want to keep an eye on things and definitely don’t want to let them do anything I will have to pay for later. I’m mainly trying to use this time to learn the testing process and I’m hoping they will let me compare notes with their readings to see if I’m seeing the same numbers. Right now the system they installed is a Frog (I’ve read all the posts on this so likely won’t use it going forward, maybe just the Chlorine pack if I’m out of town).

A couple questions I have for drop tests. Do you count the last drop when a substantial color change happens, or the next drop when the color completely changes? For instance when I do the CC test, the water is barely pink, but if I add a drop I can still detect a slight change in color. Should I put that down as 0.5, consider it near or at 0, or basically say 0.25? From what I can see on the FC test, the change even at 0.5 ppm steps from pink to clear is pretty noticeable. Sorry if I’m being a little OCD here, I just know pretty much any CC is bad.
 
You count all drops as you go but when the last drop doesn't change the color any more you drop/discount that last drop.
I know folks sometimes have problems with the TA test so I'll tell you that when I do that test I often see flashes of pink in the green fluid first, then continue adding drops of reagent and it turns dull pink, adding another drop it goes more strong pink and I'm still adding to my drop count as it then goes HOT BARBIE PINK!. I add another drop and it doesn't change any more so I don't count that drop.
Does that help?

As for the CC- if its barely faint pink it is probably less than 0.5, since the one drop made it go back to clear. Count it as 0.5 which is an acceptable test result. If you were using 25ml of pool water to test then each drop would have counted for 0..2 and the CC may have been just 0.2 or 0.4, but we don't need such exacting results at this point. Also using only 10mL of pool water sample saves on reagents. :)

Maddie :flower:
 
Gotta get that FC up or in the summer you can have algae quick. Use liquid chlorine to get it up quickly and if you have a SWG then you will eventually be able to use that. Also you want to get the CYA up as well or you will go through liquid chlorine quickly.
 
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Wolfpack is right... I didn't comment on that but how are you planning on chlorinating this new pool? Liquid chlorine and some CYA Stabilizer is needed ASAP. Have you started using PoolMath yet?? PoolMath

If you're on a computer this older version of PoolMath is fun to play with and see how variable chemistry additions change things:

PoolMath

Discover the calculator behind the perfect pool, PoolMath. Dealing with pools has allowed TFP to become the original authors of the best calculator on the net.
www.troublefreepool.com
You have to input your pool size, and then at the bottom choose how you're going to chlorinate, and pool type. Pick TroubleFree.
 
Fiberglass pools don’t need water started up. Just get the water to recommended levels ASAP.

www.troublefreepool.com

What Are My Ideal Pool Levels?

Use our tool to find ideal chemical levels for any swimming pool. Check TFP recommended levels on pH, free chlorine, cyanuric acid, and more.
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I’m using pool path for my logs and I’m about to get pickup some liquid chlorine (great deal at Menards right now) as well as some Muriatic Acid. I’ll probably hold off on the acid for now since my PH is 7.7 and again I don’t want to step on the guy managing the chemicals too much. I do want to keep an eye on / manage my FC like many have said on a daily basis since they aren’t coming out that often. I’m letting the Frog erosion chlorinator run for now since I need some CYA and it will continuously add FC since the pump is running at 2600 RPM 24/7 right now. I plan to add a little extra liquid to supplement from there. Since my CYA is basically zero any recommendations on minimum FC level? Probably going to move a lot from sunrise to sunset right now I’m assuming with no CYA.
 
drewwestrick said:
Since my CYA is basically zero any recommendations on minimum FC level?
Click to expand...
In your area you should be fine to start with a CYA of 40. You can always add more later if needed. Be sure to use liquid chlorine to keep the FC at the appropriate target level for that CYA of 40 as noted on the FC/CYA Levels.

Adding CYA:
To increase CYA via granular stabilizer, place the required amount as calculated by the PoolMath APP into a white sock and place in the poolside skimmer basket. For those concerned about suction flow to the pump, suspending the sock near a return jet or from a floating device will also suffice. Best never to allow undissolved granules to rest directly against the pool surface. After about 30 minutes of soaking, squeeze the sock continuously to help it dissipate. Once dissolved, consider your CYA adjusted to that programmed (target) level. CYA test readings should show a rise in 24-48 hours, however some pools may experience a longer delay to fully register. Best to confirm final CYA in about 5-7 days before adding any more stabilizer/conditioner.
 
Thanks for all the helpful tips. I went ahead and added liquid Bleach (12.5%) today to help bring my FC up. My last measurement was 1.5. I also added some Muriatic Acid (31.45%) to help bring the PH down a bit. I’ve pointed my return nozzles up to cause a little wave / ripple in the water in the hope that will help aerate things a bit and bring down my TA. Is it common to see the PH level rise even in a day or two with a TA ~200?
 
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drewwestrick said:
Thanks for all the helpful tips. I went ahead and added liquid Bleach (12.5%) today to help bring my FC up. My last measurement was 1.5. I also added some Muriatic Acid (31.45%) to help bring the PH down a bit. I’ve pointed my return nozzles up to cause a little wave / ripple in the water in the hope that will help aerate things a bit and bring down my TA. Is it common to see the PH level rise even in a day or two with a TA ~200?
Click to expand...
You will want the FC higher than that. Be sure to get some CYA in there or the bleach will get used up fast. If the water stays below the FC level you need you will get algae faster than you can imagine. It doesn't hurt to be a little higher. The FC/CYA chart referenced above by Texas tells you what you need.
 
I’ve got my FC now up to 5.5. I’ll continue to test daily and keep it up until I can get some conditioner and bring my CYA up. I’d really like to do this slowly and don’t mind burning some chlorine for a short time. Does anyone know if Pool Math takes into account high TA? For instance I added enough Muriatic acid to bring PH down 0.9 according to PM. It only came down 0.3 but TA came down almost 40. Is the TA basically neutralizing the acid I’m adding and therefore dropping quickly? If so, this seems good. I figured I’d have to aerate more to get this effect. Maybe these are just the east early gains when it comes to high TA?
 

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When you add acid, you consume alkalinity. So TA will drop when you add acid. ph then rises as the CO2 trapped in the water outgasses to the atmosphere.
 
The acid instantly consumes the alkalinity as it disperses in the water column. The pH rises back from the acid addition as the CO2 trapped in the water is released, by aeration, etc, to the atmosphere.
 
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