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Yes when I installed it, it goes differently than what it looks like in the diagram.

I siliconed the gasket to the skimmer face, then installed skimmer. The Gasket on the skimmer just contacts that steel edge a hair but the ridge on the plastic presses it through.

Do you normally just install the skimmer through and THEN put the first gasket on? Is what I should have done here?

Thanks again.
Also the hopper dig produced more sand, less gravely bank-run. Sand will be better than bank run for the backfill right?View attachment 137376View attachment 137377View attachment 137378View attachment 137379


Disregard....I know the answer. Taking them apart now and redoing. Thanks.
 
Yeah that day was brutal. My usual cast of helper characters is thin due to all this current lock-down state we’re in. I too am a solo operation here. Have someone doing a vermiculite floor and installing liner on Sunday...so I’m pressing hard to get squared away here for that.
Hoping my pool-krete is going in tomorrow with liner on saturday....
 
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the skimmer throat should be through the wall and the liner gets sandwiched to that with gaskets. NO PART of the steel wall should be exposed to the water. theres a little ridge on the inner most part thats the contact point its all plastic contact make sure of that

Jimmy


So all they had at pool supply is this. It’s the right gasket for the wide skimmer but they’re a paper based gasket...different than the heavy cork-like gasket that came with the skimmer.

Any issue with this?

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No but it has to work on the thickness. The skimmer throat should be far enough thru the wall to make a seal to it. The liner is pressed by the screw plate and gasket to seal to it

yeah it will. I’m going to use the one heavy cork gasket I have on the back side...and use these gaskets on the front.

They fit perfectly now that I did it right ???
 

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Jimmy so this is coming into play now. Here is my equipment pad design. It’s a 4x10 pad. I’ve tried to take everything in and this is what I’ve come up with. Using balancing loops because all the lines are complete home runs with dedicated valves...so there’s a number of them on the pressure side. This system is plumbed with all sweeps.

also is 40 PSI enough for pressure test?

thoughts?
Looks great. That's a nice tight suction on liner and your waiting to wet set and cut stairs. That's the only way to do it if you want it right and to last that's a pro install. Do all penetrations as water gets to them.

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I didn't get a chance to respond before you piped it. You didnt need 2" on the returns at all 1.5 is more than enough. Actually om homerun returns 1.25 is enough the choke point is the eyeball. I get the whole overthinking the plumbing and doing balance loops but it's really not necessary. Sure its nice but it doesn't make any difference to actual flow. I plumb my pools just like your diagram I use 2 ways on home runs. I use 2" on everything coming in and the pad piping. I make a manifold out of Ts and drop to 1.5 for all returns out of a jandy 2 way. I only use 3 way valves on suction if theres 2 suction points otherwise a manifold with 2 ways. My pet peeve is guys piping 3ways into 3ways and such. I wont let a plumber do a pool he just pulls the gas permit. You went way above a standard plumb job amd you should its your pool you want it top notch

For testing fermcos wont hold anything. I use 25psi for mine. The way you have it now take all the uprights and T them together with fittings. It's a waste of money but no other way to do it. Your pressure will fluctuate a little with temps so dont freak out. Leave it pressurized during the whole backfill process.
 
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I didn't get a chance to respond before you piped it. You didnt need 2" on the returns at all 1.5 is more than enough. Actually om homerun returns 1.25 is enough the choke point is the eyeball. I get the whole overthinking the plumbing and doing balance loops but it's really not necessary. Sure its nice but it doesn't make any difference to actual flow. I plumb my pools just like your diagram I use 2 ways on home runs. I use 2" on everything coming in and the pad piping. I make a manifold out of Ts and drop to 1.5 for all returns out of a jandy 2 way. I only use 3 way valves on suction if theres 2 suction points otherwise a manifold with 2 ways. My pet peeve is guys piping 3ways into 3ways and such. I wont let a plumber do a pool he just pulls the gas permit. You went way above a standard plumb job amd you should its your pool you want it top notch

For testing fermcos wont hold anything. I use 25psi for mine. The way you have it now take all the uprights and T them together with fittings. It's a waste of money but no other way to do it. Your pressure will fluctuate a little with temps so dont freak out. Leave it pressurized during the whole backfill process.

Thanks...Yeah I knew the 2” on the pressure side was overkill, but the pipe was cheap and honestly was just easier to have all the fittings the same as I worked through it. this was one of my favorite parts of the job so far...and I feel like I know every single fitting and know they’re perfect

So just a simple manifold of Tee’s is what you do? Attaching a sketch here. This doesn’t effect different lines differently based on where the suction/pressure T comes into the manifold?
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Lastly....do you use a lot of unions to allow EVERYTHING to be disconnected on the pad?
 

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Yup like that. On the returns split in the middle. On the suction come in on the end if possible. You just dont want any line 4 waying or making a trident allowing the flow to be too easy to take charge. The returns balance themselves out naturally. Sure if you put a flow meter I'm the water they will vary slightly but I've never had a situation where it mattered or you could even tell the difference. The eyeball choke point basically put even pressure on all the lines. If you were shooting straight thru wall fittings then yes you would know the difference but that's never gonna happen. I suspect you have valves already but the larger 2ways is preferable for the suction side the 2x2.5 inch is what i use. I use the 1.5x2 or returns amd glue to the manifold Ts on outside amd then reduce to 1.5 to inside to return piping. Remember with 2ways on everything you have complete control amd you can even throttle things to balance it's the best way and you did that exactly as I would have
 
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