New Cartridge Filter Question

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M

mbear2k

0
Oct 29, 2011
21
I'm replacing my sand filter with a cartridge filter and have a couple of operating questions not covered in the manual (yes I read the manual).

Air bleed - I understand on first start up and after cleaning I need to open the air bleed to let air out and until water comes out. In reviewing some videos discussing cleaning the filters when needed, they mention opening the air bleed before disassembling the tank - and they demonstrate air escaping. Does air build up in the tank over a period of normal use? Do I need to occasionally bleed off air on a regular basis?

First use - any benefit to filling the tank part way with water prior to final re-assembly?

Band tightness - the manual for my model says to tight the tank band to 150 inch pounds which I will do. It also includes all kinds of warnings about this being double checked and secure before starting the pump. And warnings to stay 10 feet away from filter at startup, etc. Watching the videos out there, a guy with a crescent wrench tightens the band 'until the spring is compressed' and fires it up while looking closely for band leaks. I plan to follow the manufacturers directions and warnings, but was interested in whether these are strict safety warnings vs. practical time savings steps vs. darn fools on youtube?

Appreciate any feedback.

Thanks
 
If you could provide us more information on your equipment it would be helpful -- Pool School - Read This BEFORE You Post

I have a Pentair cartridge filter. The air bleed is opened before you open the vessel to be sure there is no pressure in it. You use the air bleed after closing the vessel and at first pump start up to bleed the air out. Normal operation there should be no air build up in the vessel.

No need to fill the tank part way.

I use plenty of Magic Lube on the gasket and tap the band while tightening it. Best to have two people for this process. I do go until the spring is compressed. I also step away during initial startup because a catastrophic failure would be hazardous. But once up and running, I then inspect for leaks, etc.

Hope that helps.
 
Thanks for the info.

I have:
- brand new Hayward SP3200VSP pump (10" length of 2" pipe in front of first fitting/valves)
- pump replaces a Hayward 1hp, single speed super pump
- Hayward Swimclear C4030 cartridge filter on the way
- Heatpump
- Chlorine generator
- all 2" plumbing on the intake side
- 2" plumbing at the filter equipment with a reducer to a single 1.5" pipe after heater/chlorine generator to outlets (as was installed 5 years ago)
- 12,500 gallons
- Pump/filter 7 feet above pool and ~50 feet away (check valves on both main drain and skimmer lines)
 
mbear2k said:
I'm replacing my sand filter with a cartridge filter and have a couple of operating questions not covered in the manual (yes I read the manual).
Click to expand...
Air bleed - I understand on first start up and after cleaning I need to open the air bleed to let air out and until water comes out. True

In reviewing some videos discussing cleaning the filters when needed, they mention opening the air bleed before disassembling the tank True
- and they demonstrate air escaping. False! the vessel will suck air (not escape) while replacing the volume of water being suck back down into the pool or spa.

Does air build up in the tank over a period of normal use? No, at least not in my case.

Do I need to occasionally bleed off air on a regular basis? Again the answer is no, unless you have leak.

First use - any benefit to filling the tank part way with water prior to final re-assembly? No

Band tightness - the manual for my model says to tight the tank band to 150 inch pounds which I will do. It also includes all kinds of warnings about this being double checked and secure before starting the pump. And warnings to stay 10 feet away from filter at startup, etc. Watching the videos out there, a guy with a crescent wrench tightens the band 'until the spring is compressed' and fires it up while looking closely for band leaks. I plan to follow the manufacturers directions and warnings, but was interested in whether these are strict safety warnings vs. practical time savings steps vs. darn fools on youtube?
It is always a good practice to follow the manufacturer's recommended installation instructions to avoid possible serious personal injury and/or property damage. Lube the rubber gasket and tighten the sleeve nuts alternately to secure clamp firmly and evenly to form a good seal. Be sure to tighten nut until spring coils touch each other.

Good Luck!
 
Thanks for the feedback. The filter is being trucked across the country, so I want to pull the top off and inspect before putting in to service. My torque wrenches were all too large (in measurement capabilities) so I have a 3/8 wrench on the way that will work perfectly.

Thanks again for the info!
 
Two corrections on this thread.

First, the old-style bands [and least on the Hayward C4030 4-cartridge tanks] are not springs anymore; they are a long bolt w a nut. A torque wrench of 150 ft/lbs is to tighten the bolt, not a spring. Mbear, check w Hayward and you'll see the spring is old technology.

Next, when you clean the cartridges, you will want to drain the bottom half. As stated correctly previously, the air relief valve is to let in air [when cleaning] so the water level can drain right below the bottom half so upon opening the top, water will not come rushing out. You will also want to open the drain nut to release all the "nasty water", and be able to rinse out the bottom w a hose.

Re the purging air out in the future, anytime you access the pump basket, many times the water level will drop. Water also drops from the filtering system too. Once you replace the pump basket, close the top and crank her up and the pump clear-view top is full, you can purge air outside the filtering system. Just barely open it and you will hear the air being purged out w the pressure of the water, just the opposite of when you open it under no pressure that releases water and replaces w air.

Finally, as correctly stated previously, you need to use a some silicone made specifically for the large O-ring. Also, put some on the o-ring that goes on the plug as well. Don't over do it, but make sure the ring is completely coated lightly to form a tight seal. I also strongly agree on tapping the band while tightening it [use a rubber mallet or tap w wood, not a metal hammer]. You can also re-torque the band in the early morning 2-3 days later after the heat of the day is over and the cool of the night has allowed the band to contract. this is the time you will be able to tighten completely.

NOTE: Pls put your pool info, location and other info so users will know how to better answer your questions. Pls also consider joining the Forum; you'll get your money back in 2-4 weeks...good luck
 
Got the new cartridge filter installed this past weekend and am very pleased. Installed very quickly and without issue.

I do have a follow-on question regarding backflow... The pool is about 6 feet below the pump equipment. I have a check valve on both the inlet side pipes and there is one as part of the chlorine generator on the return line. The check valves all work as designed.

The issue - when I shut the pump down and open the lid to clean the basket, apparently the water pressure in the tank is enough to open the outlet side check valve and water drains out of the filter and pump. This then requires filling the pump and bleeding the filter every time I want to clean the basket. The inlet side check valves hold fine, so prime is not an issue.

Thoughts? Add a manual shut off valve on the return side for basket maintenance use?



pool.jpg
 
I have the same filter but the manual specifically says do not lube the gasket. Any idea why?? Will it be bad to?

From the manual...
> DEX2422Z2 metal reinforced seal.
> Do not lubricate DEX2422Z2 seal.
 

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