New build in the Garden State - NJ

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The caulk also prevents water from getting in there, which can easily accumulate near and under the coping and do bad things in freezing situations as well.

If the concrete was poured onto gravel on virgin soil like ours, it’s not going to settle. Otherwise, it shouldn’t hurt to wait a year. The foam theoretically keeps water from streaming down the joint.
 
MarlboroMan said:
Thanks @ajw22

Do you recommend adding caulking within a few months after the concrete pour? I asked some neighbors with pools and they said they wouldn't wait a year.
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Depends what you have around the pool. You don’t want to have dirt or sand get into the gap. You would then have to scrape it out before caulking. And the Deck-O-Seal type products need to be installed in warm temperatures.

I would seal the joints in September before you close the pool for the winter. Unless you have an environment where dirt is getting into the gaps before then.
 
After a big delay and after complaints to our contractor they will finally pour the concrete for our patio tomorrow! Weather is going to be perfect tomorrow so there should be no surprises. ?

After the patio is done we can schedule the plaster.
 
No checklist for this as each build is so different. I will see if I can help you make one from my questions.
Is there anything left to do or fix?
Is the equipment hooked up and ready to go?
What start up are they going to do? Get as many details as you can. I will also share a set of links about getting a good plaster job
Ten Guidelines for Quality Pool Plaster Best one of all
All Plaster Finishes Should Last 20 Years
Not All Color Pigments are Good for Pools How to pick a good color for plaster.
A Plastering 'Watch List' | Professional Watershaping | Watershapes
Trouble Free Pool
Trouble Free Pool

I hope this helps!

Kim:kim:
 
Hi Everyone,
PB finally plastered the pool yesterday and we started to fill the pool with our garden hose!

I will post some pics when I have more time. Thank you everyone here who helped me in the building process. Soon the chemistry starts.

Anyway, I was wondering if this is an issue or not. See pics.

Today when I checked on how the fill was doing I noticed this (not sure what you call it) water mark heading up to the return.

I think it is creeping upward,.... does that make sense?
 

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Is there any chance water is dripping out of the return hole? There might be a lip on it that is keeping it from "flowing" down the wall but still allows it to drip. I have not seen anything like this before so we will learn together.
 
kimkats said:
Is there any chance water is dripping out of the return hole? There might be a lip on it that is keeping it from "flowing" down the wall but still allows it to drip. I have not seen anything like this before so we will learn together.
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I think it would be way too much of a coincidence for that not to be the case. Something forced a little water out of that return. Not sure if it standard procedure to plug those before plastering but perhaps it should be. Probably a bit late but I would try to get some type of plug in there to stop any further issues and notify the PB about it. Hopefully some of the plaster experts will chime in with any expected hydration issues and possible fixes if there are issues..
 

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I just checked and KK is correct. There is a drip coming from the return. It had to have started overnight.

I will let the PB know of the drip.

Does anyone know why there would be a drip from the return now? I am certain that even before the plaster there was no leak.
 
Yes. The pool is filled with our garden hose. It took 3 days and now its been raining since.

PB has started the pump and given me instructions for the next 30 days.
He added MA and told me to add every 3 days until Ph is around 72. Per instructions I will be adding chlorine tomorrow.

Meanwhile any breaks in the rain I have been sweeping the plaster.

I have used my TF-100 test kit to measure Ph and I believe its 8.2 or higher.

My CH is 125

My question is,... should I be following TFP methods now and start treating the pool based on Pool Math?

Thanks everyone!
 

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Follow your startup instructions for the first 28 days.
 
You need to so as he says and get the pH down to 7.2..........it might be a bit of a battle. What you do is use Pool Math. Call you pH now as 8.0 and your target as 7.5 (we don't want to go too low so being on the safe side you will target 7.5 for the pH). Add the amount of m.a. Pool Math tells you to with the pump on high and brush the pool. Wait about 20 mins or so.........test again. If it is not in the 7s then do the does, wait/brush, test cycle until you get it down in the 7s. Once it gets in the 7s. THEN target 7.4 to see how accurate your pool size. Once you get your testing and dosage spot on then you should target 7.2 as your PB says.

Kim:kim:
 
A few days ago we completed our 2 week mark and had our indoctrination just before 7/4. We still have open issues with the PB and they are pretty much silent and hard to reach but we are still trying to get work with them to fix things

We have to wait another 2 weeks to get the salt and SWG started. So meanwhile we were told to keep up with the PH, Calcium Hardness, TA and Chlorine.

As of this morning:

PH 7.2
CH 250
TA 20
CL was Zero so I added 20 tablets into the skimmers per PB.
I did not complete the clorine drop test because it basically read 0 chlorine after the first drops.

I have been putting chlorine tablets in the skimmers as instructed by PB. But chlorine only last a couple of days before it's gone.

WIth regard to CH I was told to keep up this level until the salt SWG starts in a couple of weeks.

Anyways here is our pool yesterday morning before we went swimming.
20190704_102413.jpg
 

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