New Build in Dallas

May 24, 2010
200
Dallas, TX
All-

I had a prior thread started quite a long time ago; wanted to start a new one as 1) a lot has changed and 2) we're finally nailing down a contract. Using a local, large PB we've used in the past for reno work; we're building a new home and the builder will GC over the PB (we're not shopping it around because builder has a long relationship with PB). They're a Jandy shop, so my Pentair wishlist went out the window.

Equipment:
Jandy ePump 2.7HP VS
Jandy CV/CL 580sqft cartridge (I've had both DE and cartridge in the past and done with the DE)
PLC 1400 salt cell (40k gallon, they don't go larger)
PDA-P8 system board, either the 6614AP-L or 6613AP (both run the salt cell, the former also incorporates a power center)
2 skimmers ("S" boxes on drawing), 5 returns (not on drawing)
3 lights (circles on drawing), PB wants to use BlueSquare Specturm 360 LEDs (not nicheless, but don't require bonding)
robot cleaner TBD (do people still just run the power cord across decking from the nearest outlet, or is there something new these days?)

PB will either go 8.5-9' at deep end, or no deeper than 6' (for liability, so nobody thinks it's meant to be dived in to); we're on the fence as to which way to go (more usable standing space, or being able to dive). We've got an 11 and a 15 year old, and we're coming from a 50' long pool that had both a large diving area and a large 4' area.

35' long x 18' wide, not counting the step area. No spa because we're done with that, and going for a "jump wall" with 3 sheers instead of a diving board. The plan right now is 4' shallow end to 6' deep end, 23.5k gallons. It goes to 3.5' at the step side of the shallow end. Leuders coping with broom-finish poured concrete for the rest of the decking.

Bird's-eye view is an older drawing but is a good view of the lot and overall positioning. There's ~50' from the equipment pad (light blue box in the bird's eye view; originally was going to go in the red spot but wanted to keep it out of sight, out of earshot, and give me some room to do the work and drain to the alley) to the closest edge of the pool; skimmers are 2" dedicated runs to pad (do they need to be larger?) and we know the pump will need to run a little higher than normal to make up for the length.

There's a grade that runs down from left to right; we're going to try and build up on the left side, but, worst case, there's a 6" rise or so from the ground to the decking.

Also another ledge at the bottom (drawn in) to match the one opposite.

- steel structure shall include a 4 Bar Box Beam with 1/2" steel rebar. walls and floors will have 3/8" steel rebar on 10" centers with alternates in the floor, 3/8' rebar deck dowels, and 3"-4" of gravel base flowable fill
- gunite (concrete shell) used will be pneumatically applied. bond beam will be continuous around perimeter and a minimum of 12" wide and 8" deep. walls and floors will be a minimum of 6"

If we switched to 8.5' deep end, we'd upgrade structure to:
- steel upgrade- 1/2" steel rebar on 10" centers with 5" alternates in significant stress points in walls and floor. beam to have 5 bars (1/2") steel in continuous pool beam
- gunite upgrade- beam is 18"x10" with keyed notch for deck. walls and floor thickness to be a minimum of 8" thick. covers a minimum of 1"-12" thick.

Thanks for reading!

Pool_20210319.PNG

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I recommend you get the Aqualink One Touch with iAqualink instead of the PDA. You have lots more flexibility and ease of use with that setup.

Otherwise your specs look fine.
 
Thanks!

I will be able to use iAqualink (phone app) with whatever setup they're putting together (I don't have model numbers yet from them- instead, I gave them my own list above). Looks like the One Touch is a mounted panel- the PDA will be more of the "leave it poolside" device and I'd use the phone app when indoors- if I'm thinking about this correctly (that the iAqualink phone app and One Touch are separate devices that operate independently). Does the One Touch do anything iAqualink (the phone app) can't do? If so, is it more maintenance items (that I'd be doing at the system board anyway)?
 
They have very different UI. One touch has the best UI.

What do you mean by doing stuff at the “system board”?

@PoolGate has the One Touch. I have an All Button panel.
 
At whatever I've got available to me at the pad. Apologies, closest thing I've ever had to automation was my Stenner on a timer :) I'm assuming that, thru either the iAqualink phone app, One Touch, or PDA, they all send commands to the "system board" (in my case, an AquaLink PDA-P8). And that, at the PDA-P8, I can also control all the equipment (maybe I lose my macros and other coordinated commands that are made available thru the iAqualink phone app, One Touch, or PDA controllers, maybe I don't). At least, I'm assuming the PDA-P8 allows me to control the equipment. Or is it that I NEED at least one of the iAqualink phone app, One Touch, or PDA controller to control the equipment?

I'm using this as my reference for configuration purposes: https://www.jandy.com/-/media/zodiac/global/downloads/sa/sa6465.pdf?force=1
 
You cannot do any programming of the Aqualink from the panel at the equipment pad. All it has is a bunch of buttons to turn basic equipment on or off. It does not have a display, keypad, or UI.

You need at least one of the iAqualink phone app, One Touch, or PDA controller to program the panel and control the equipment.

Jandy is not very forthcoming with all the operational differences in the many components they put the Aqualink brand on.
 
You do NOT want the PDA based system! It is a horrible interface for programming. You want the RS system. That means what you have plus the IQ20-RS upgrade or better just start with an RS system. The price difference between the 2 is not much. A couple hundred. The upgrade includes the RS version of the small daughterboard that goes on the main board. This flips the role so that your computer interface is the primary interface for programming. If you stay with the PDA, then you use the PDA for programming with is horrible. You can still have the PDA, although it is largely useless with the RS board, but you'll never use it. I can't stress how critical this is. Don't let your builder sell you a PDA based system you will regret it. It is an obsolete system and quite frankly, Jandy should discontinue it.
 
This is huge- appreciate it! So, to be sure, I'm going to ask for an RS-P8 system board (single body of water, with max. # of relays), with iAquaLink (for web + mobile app), and a OneTouch panel (which will get mounted either at the pad or inside the house)?

Side note, because we don't have a separate booster for the sheers, it will be valved such that either the sheers are off, or the sheers are getting most of the flow and the returns are getting a minimal amount. As long as we're not running the sheers 24 hours a day, we'll have sufficient circulation.

Also, we decided to go with an 8.5' deep end, which will get us this (copied from above):
- steel upgrade- 1/2" steel rebar on 10" centers with 5" alternates in significant stress points in walls and floor. beam to have 5 bars (1/2") steel in continuous pool beam
- gunite upgrade- beam is 18"x10" with keyed notch for deck. walls and floor thickness to be a minimum of 8" thick. covers a minimum of 1"-12" thick.
 
OneTouch panel gets mounted indoors, not outdoors by the Aqualink RS panel.

The steel and gunite specifications should be determined by an engineer based on your local soil conditions. Different parts of Texas have very different soils.
 
Awesome! You don't need the one touch either you'll never use it. Just use the computer interface which is a regular web browser or the phone app. One touch will cost you like $750 more it's not worth it!
 

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I always like to have one simple manual panel for guests or visitors to control the pool who don’t have access to a computer or the right app.
 
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PB isn't getting an engineer; they do a lot of work in my part of the city; I'm assuming they're using a conservative set of specs (though I have no clue what counts as conservative); there's a lifetime warranty on the shell (haven't seen a contract yet so need to confirm the verbiage). Appreciate all the feedback and knowledge on how all the parts fit together- good point on having something for guests to use.
 
Are you on the side of DFW that has heavy clay soil?

I’m on the side of the metro that has heavy clay. All pool builders said they would only do all 1/2 rebar for any build out my way.
 
Getting down to the nitty gritty on equipment here.

According to this: https://www.jandy.com/-/media/zodiac/global/downloads/sl/sl6458.pdf?force=1

I only need the iQ20-A (wireless adapter) for newer RS and PDA systems. For older systems, I need the iQ20-RS (wireless adapter + card). PB salesperson is telling me I need the iQ20-RS for full web/app programmability, and that I'll only get basic control functions with the iQ20-A. Is that statement correct? Is it correct if only for a PDA-based system? Or is he selling me older stock?

Update:
Maybe I just figure this out going back to what @PoolGate wrote. Does an RS-based system + iQ20-A, get me the same as a PDA-based system + iQ20-A + iQ20-RS? (in terms of web/app programmability. I know the RS-based system has extras like seasonal adjustments, etc.)
 
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Getting down to the nitty gritty on equipment here.

According to this: https://www.jandy.com/-/media/zodiac/global/downloads/sl/sl6458.pdf?force=1

I only need the iQ20-A (wireless adapter) for newer RS and PDA systems. For older systems, I need the iQ20-RS (wireless adapter + card). PB salesperson is telling me I need the iQ20-RS for full web/app programmability, and that I'll only get basic control functions with the iQ20-A. Is that statement correct? Is it correct if only for a PDA-based system? Or is he selling me older stock?

IQ20-A is a totally and completely worthless upgrade to the PDA system. The IQ20-RS is what you need. I am actually not 100% sure what a native RS system includes though as I upgraded my PDA based system with the IQ20-RS. But I thought it included the antenna and RS system board which included full web programming.

Ask your builder the exact model # of the iAqualink you are getting.

Call Jandy and ask their sales what you actually need.

Here is the selection guide which indicates some things are optional. https://www.jandy.com/-/media/zodiac/global/downloads/sa/sa6465.pdf?force=1
 
Maybe this will help or at least you can compare to it. My jandy install, new as of last year, included boxes labeled, RS-PS12, IQ20-A, 6614AP-L, and PLC1400 along with the pumps, filter, and heaters. I only control my system through the app. I do not have any hand held remotes or PDAs. Everything works as expected with complete control from the App or web.
 
Finalized the contract this morning; PB got on the phone with his Jandy rep and confirmed that with an RS system board, only the iQ20-A is required for complete web/app control.

If I ever have a need for a wall-mounted panel for inside the house for guests, I'll mount an old iPad :)
 
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