New Build in Central Texas - Patio Build Out
- Thread starter Stoopalini
- Start date
RoyR
Bronze Supporter
- Jun 8, 2020
- 590
- Pool Size
- 14060
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Thanks. I actually took this, and compared it to what my builder requires, to come up with my plan. I needed the builder to give me the A-OK on doing the startup myself, so wanted to make sure I had things covered.
The left column is what the builder requires, the 2nd column is from Pebbletec's startup doc, the 3rd column is how my fill water tested, and the last is my target.
- Jun 8, 2020
- 590
- Pool Size
- 14060
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
It's full!
Total volume (based on the water main meter) works out to 14,060 gallons.
I got the pump primed, and running at 2500 RPM. The pressure gauge on the filter is only showing 10 PSI though? The flow out of the returns and the skimmer venturi ports are really strong, so I'm not concerned.
pH tested at 8.2, so I added 3 cups of 31.45% muriatic acid, which brought it down to 7.6 (with TA of 130), and I just added another 3 cups, which should bring it down to 7.3
I also added 2lbs 6oz CYA granules in a sock, and hung it in the skimmer. I didn't set it on the bottom of the skimmer basket, because I worried it would restrict the flow; considering how large the sock is.
We tested calcium, and I'm getting a result of 175ppm; which is really odd, considering all previous tests of our coop water were 300ppm. It looks like I'll need to add some calcium to bring it up to the 250 range. I'm now wondering if my 2nd spigot which is supposed to be hard water, may actually be connected to the soft line instead. I need to test it to be sure, as all my previous tests of the coop water were done from the other hard water spigot.
I'll test again here in a few mins, and assuming the pH is now 7.3, I'm going to add 2ppm FC for now. I'd like the family to be able to swim today, so I don't want to spike the FC too high considering the CYA is zero, until the granules dissolve.
Total volume (based on the water main meter) works out to 14,060 gallons.
I got the pump primed, and running at 2500 RPM. The pressure gauge on the filter is only showing 10 PSI though? The flow out of the returns and the skimmer venturi ports are really strong, so I'm not concerned.
pH tested at 8.2, so I added 3 cups of 31.45% muriatic acid, which brought it down to 7.6 (with TA of 130), and I just added another 3 cups, which should bring it down to 7.3
I also added 2lbs 6oz CYA granules in a sock, and hung it in the skimmer. I didn't set it on the bottom of the skimmer basket, because I worried it would restrict the flow; considering how large the sock is.
We tested calcium, and I'm getting a result of 175ppm; which is really odd, considering all previous tests of our coop water were 300ppm. It looks like I'll need to add some calcium to bring it up to the 250 range. I'm now wondering if my 2nd spigot which is supposed to be hard water, may actually be connected to the soft line instead. I need to test it to be sure, as all my previous tests of the coop water were done from the other hard water spigot.
I'll test again here in a few mins, and assuming the pH is now 7.3, I'm going to add 2ppm FC for now. I'd like the family to be able to swim today, so I don't want to spike the FC too high considering the CYA is zero, until the granules dissolve.
poolnoobgrandma
Gold Supporter
- Sep 15, 2018
- 938
- Pool Size
- 17000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite Pro (T-15)
spd500
Well-known member
It looks great!! And it is finished just in time for a Labor Day Barbeque 
Turbo1Ton
Gold Supporter
- Dec 26, 2019
- 1,836
- Pool Size
- 14500
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Whiskeyfox
Well-known member
- Jun 8, 2020
- 590
- Pool Size
- 14060
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Thanks guys! We're loving it 
The pool guys came out today to check on everything. The pH was at 7.2 when they tested (since I had already lowered it), but they tested the TA at 130. My TF-100 kit is testing it at 110 though. They said they were going to add a full gallon of 31.45% muriatic acid to the water, and I said "ummm, no you're not..." LOL ... the reason is because I had promised my kids they could jump in during their lunch break (schooling from home), and it was around 11am when they were here.
But I also questioned them on wanting to lower the TA so abruptly, and drastically tank the pH down into the 5's ... the guy I was talking to said that's fine, and not a problem ... that the TA was more important for new plaster. So I kindly explained that I would add the acid throughout the day, so my kids could swim right now and not have to wait for 128oz of 31.45% acid to mix.
That said ... my plan is to maintain the pH at 7.2 - 7.3, and as it naturally rises, add MA to bring it back down. Shouldn't this be enough to lower the TA into acceptable range? Or do I really need to add bulk MA to bring the TA down drastically, and then let the pH recover over time? The guy seemed to think gradual additions of MA wouldn't do it, as the TA would recover to the higher range in between MA additions.
The pool guys came out today to check on everything. The pH was at 7.2 when they tested (since I had already lowered it), but they tested the TA at 130. My TF-100 kit is testing it at 110 though. They said they were going to add a full gallon of 31.45% muriatic acid to the water, and I said "ummm, no you're not..." LOL ... the reason is because I had promised my kids they could jump in during their lunch break (schooling from home), and it was around 11am when they were here.
But I also questioned them on wanting to lower the TA so abruptly, and drastically tank the pH down into the 5's ... the guy I was talking to said that's fine, and not a problem ... that the TA was more important for new plaster. So I kindly explained that I would add the acid throughout the day, so my kids could swim right now and not have to wait for 128oz of 31.45% acid to mix.
That said ... my plan is to maintain the pH at 7.2 - 7.3, and as it naturally rises, add MA to bring it back down. Shouldn't this be enough to lower the TA into acceptable range? Or do I really need to add bulk MA to bring the TA down drastically, and then let the pH recover over time? The guy seemed to think gradual additions of MA wouldn't do it, as the TA would recover to the higher range in between MA additions.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,789
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Pool looks great! 
For the whole pH thing ... remember that new pools typically cure better with a slightly postie CSI. So use the PoolMath to maintain a CSI of about 0.1 to 0.5 or so for the first 30 days. After that, you can keep the CSI slightly negative to help prevent scaling. Enjoy that new toy. 
www.troublefreepool.com
For the whole pH thing ... remember that new pools typically cure better with a slightly postie CSI. So use the PoolMath to maintain a CSI of about 0.1 to 0.5 or so for the first 30 days. After that, you can keep the CSI slightly negative to help prevent scaling. Enjoy that new toy. Plaster Start-Up Guides - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
- Jun 8, 2020
- 590
- Pool Size
- 14060
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Pool looks great!
Plaster Start-Up Guides - Further Reading
Right, I saw that .. but not sure what elements of the CSI calculation I should adjust to swing it into the positive side. Tanking the pH down to 6.0, just to get the TA to 90, would cause the CSI to become -1.60! ya, negative 1.60 .... I know I don't want that.
I guess it's just a matter of keeping both the pH and the TA a little elevated? Like a TA of 120 and pH of 7.8 will give me CSI of 0.29.
I guess I need to get my calcium up to 250, which will allow a positive CSI with a bit lower pH and TA..
Congratulations!! Pool looks great! Is it not cool how your finished pool reassembles the virtual design you have been staring at for months?!?
Cheers!!
Cheers!!
- Jun 8, 2020
- 590
- Pool Size
- 14060
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Congratulations!! Pool looks great! Is it not cool how your finished pool reassembles the virtual design you have been staring at for months?!?
Cheers!!
Thanks! And ya, the pool builder did a great job every step of the way. The only thing we're still struggling with a bit is the waterfall look. We expected it to be more subtle and organic looking. My wife wants to demo and redo it to be more like the PB's sample pool's waterfall design. Although we know once we have landscaping behind and around the waterfall, it'll change the look/feel quite a bit; so we're still deciding if we have the mason redo it now, or wait until we complete the landscaping in the spring and then decide.
Here's the sample waterfall at the PB's facility. Not so tall, and more flowing ... if that makes sense.
That said, I still can't believe how fast and efficient everything went though. We were told 60 day clock from excavation complete to plaster ... but they beat that by quite a lot!
spd500
Well-known member
Do you have pics of your waterfall running? I don't think I would tear it all out after finally finishing, but wives do tend to get what they want.
- Jun 8, 2020
- 590
- Pool Size
- 14060
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Here it is with the Pentair VSF pump running at 2800 RPMs
The flow of the water is nice, as the mason is really great at what he does! So much so, that we hired him on the side to do some other stuff for us too. It's the way it fits into overall look. Like the left side seems chopped off, and it's a lot higher than we expected
Once we have bushes and trees around it, and along the long stretch of boulder coping, I know it'll completely change how it fits into the scenery. I also thought of getting some very large moss rock boulders, to place behind, and to the side, of the waterfall. We'll be building it up back there with fill dirt and a small retaining wall between the fill dirt and a flagstone patio ...
The flow of the water is nice, as the mason is really great at what he does! So much so, that we hired him on the side to do some other stuff for us too. It's the way it fits into overall look. Like the left side seems chopped off, and it's a lot higher than we expected
Once we have bushes and trees around it, and along the long stretch of boulder coping, I know it'll completely change how it fits into the scenery. I also thought of getting some very large moss rock boulders, to place behind, and to the side, of the waterfall. We'll be building it up back there with fill dirt and a small retaining wall between the fill dirt and a flagstone patio ...
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,789
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
spd500
Well-known member
I agee, it does not look as nice as the sample. Few things that I notice are that the sample the showed you was build with flatter stones that allowed for more of a stepped waterfall effect, and the sample also is more tapered into the elevation of the pool on the ends. On your pool there is not much you can do on the left side without blocking part of your step out that you put so much work into, but maybe they could soften it a little by adding a few stone on the right side. The idea of adding some boulders behind the waterfall might help on the left side.
Just went back to your first page. Your quote determined your waterfall.
- 3-Ton boulder waterfall (8' x 2.5' x 3')
Last edited:
- Jun 8, 2020
- 590
- Pool Size
- 14060
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Thanks guys ... we've had a few different ideas ... like taking the top row off (it's there to as a cap, to cover the basin which collects the water, then overflows out of the rocks), as well as bringing the left side inward some, to ease that drop down to the coping where the step is.
There's also going to be a retaining wall behind the waterfall, on that left side, to hold the backfill dirt from spilling down onto the soon-to-be built flagstone patio. So we could extend the waterfall line right onto that small retaining wall, and make it look cohesive.
Here's a look from the backside, to show what I mean. The outline in red will be flagstone patio, dry fit with crushed granite between the stones. You can see the footer on the left, which will be a small moss rock wall, so we can build up the dirt behind the waterfall and plant landscaping there.
So the other idea is to wait until the landscaping is done, and see how we can make it look more natural by having trees/bushes surrounding it, as well as with some larger boulders placed in strategic places.
There's also going to be a retaining wall behind the waterfall, on that left side, to hold the backfill dirt from spilling down onto the soon-to-be built flagstone patio. So we could extend the waterfall line right onto that small retaining wall, and make it look cohesive.
Here's a look from the backside, to show what I mean. The outline in red will be flagstone patio, dry fit with crushed granite between the stones. You can see the footer on the left, which will be a small moss rock wall, so we can build up the dirt behind the waterfall and plant landscaping there.
So the other idea is to wait until the landscaping is done, and see how we can make it look more natural by having trees/bushes surrounding it, as well as with some larger boulders placed in strategic places.
RoyR
Bronze Supporter
You can’t take away the top layer of rock, it hides the spillway...either way, it’s not a “naturally“ built waterfall to start with. Add some more rocks to the left, and move on to other stuff.