New Build - DFW

The plumber should have installed a pressure gauge on the plumbing pipes at the equipment pad or on a return line that is projecting out of the Shotcrete.
Typically this is not removed until plaster.
This is inspected to ensure that the plumbing is tight.View attachment 569470View attachment 569471
Your 2nd pic has a nozzle on it. I did see a nozzle in the plumbing going to the pump but didn’t see any sort of gauge

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Interesting. I don’t think they ever pressure tested would this be an issue?

It would be an issue if there are leaks in pipes that are now buried.

The plumbing is all installed outside the pool shell, would that make a difference?

Make a difference with what?

Pressure testing should be done before pipe trenches are filled so if any PVC glue joints are leaking they can be identified and fixed.
 
what does pool not keeping pressure mean? The electrian mentioned that on 2 separate occasions in the past week as he was hooking up the panel and lights. Tile and coping was also added last week, there is no water in the pool so the comment has been confusing. I know the plumber added water to the equipment when he plumbed a month ago. I imagine whatever the issue is would be something that’s fixed since it wouldn’t pass final inspection??

They also had to cut rebar to be able to install the light, won’t this rebar cause issues with rusting and seeping through the plaster or is there a way this gets fixed? We are doing mini pebble plaster. Pic attached

View attachment 569468
Concrete does not keep pressure. It's porous. It can be water proofed to stop seepage and it is then sealed with plaster which stops water from seeping out. There are several ways to "seal" concrete. Some just seem to apply plaster because it can seal the concrete itself. Others seem to apply a separate bonding/waterproof layer. Both also seem to work but I prefer a bonding/waterproofing layer since it seems to me that it provides an independent layer of leak protection if the plaster ever cracks.

When builders refer to "holding pressure" they're usually referring to the piping. Piping is tested with test rigs that include a pressure gauge. It is pressurized and checked to see if it holds for a period of time, usually 24 hours. There is usually an inspection that is done with the gauges at pressure before concrete is applied. At this point they also check to ensure no rebar is withing 2-3" of the surface.

There is raw rebar all around the inside of your concrete that rusts and it's supposed to be at least 2-3" away from the surface. Sometimes during the concrete operation the rebar shifts and protrudes. This is not a good thing since rebar that's not fully encased does not provide the tensile strength to the structure. However, designs are usually very conservative so there is still enough strength with a minor piece of rebar protruding. Also sometimes during concrete application small pieces of rebar or steel are used to support the forms and will protrude. These should be cut off below the surface and coated to eliminate rust.

I hope this is helpful.

Chris
 
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Hi All - seems like we have been sitting for a month, and things have been moving very slowly. Is it normal for rain to delay things so much? I am frustrated with my PB because I feel like he uses rain as an excuse. We were supposed to start a small deck today (approx 100 sq feet) at the entrance of the pool and they are saying because it rained a lot yesterday that it is too wet to get the equipment in. Well they are only laying the perimeter and burying the ground rod to get it prepped for inspection. The pavers don't come until after inspection. Is this reasonable or are they just making excuses? Thanks.
 
Keep in mind they likely have several, if not all of their customers impatient about the same delays. Your stage in your progress may not be the best way for them to get back on track, helping you and everyone else in the long run.

It's frustrating but it is what it is sometimes. It's a gut punch now but a couple of weeks is nothing on a pool you'll enjoy for a generation or two. :)
 
Thanks all. One other question the tile they installed isn't all completely flat/even, some pieces are slightly raised than the piece next to it, you can feel it if you run your hand against it. Is this normal considering they are putting it against shotcrete which is probably uneven and there is glue behind it as well or should I bring it up?
 
Thanks all. One other question the tile they installed isn't all completely flat/even, some pieces are slightly raised than the piece next to it, you can feel it if you run your hand against it. Is this normal considering they are putting it against shotcrete which is probably uneven and there is glue behind it as well or should I bring it up?

Thinset is used to adhere tile to the wall. A good tiler will vary the thickness of the thinset to even out the imperfections in the gunite and even the tiles.

Slightly raise I would let slide. To fix it they need to pop off the tile which may damage it and grind down the thinset to put another layer on. That can all cause more problems then the slight raise you have now.
 

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Hi All - we have a retaining wall that my PB created using shotcrete. The back of the wall facing the fence does not have any sort of finish (like cement slurry or something) I think they forgot. We now have the space filled with sand and gravel and turf. Given there is no finish will that cause issues in the future for me? Pic attached.

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I can't really tell much with a close up only but doesn't look finished at all if that's the exposed wall. Can you step back and take a photo where I can see what he did with this "retaining wall". Can you also show what you did with the sand gravel and turf. Drainage can be a tricky thing especially with the heavy downpours. Looks like it could under cut in this photos... need more photos please.
 
Hi All - wanted to give an update. We are finally at plaster stage they did all the prep work yesterday and we are tentative for later this week or next week. Thanks for all of the advice along the way this forum has been a wealth of knowledge and sanity checks.

We are traveling next week but I have made arrangements with the builder to hire someone he has used in the past to come and brush twice a day for the week we are gone. It is a pebble finish. They said they would take care of turning the water off if I am not around and I asked if it fills on a Saturday and the start-up guy doesn't come until Monday to start the pump is that okay, and he said that was fine. Not sure if that is sound advice.

pool 1.jpg
 
Wow that's a tough situation. I'd want to be there at the very least to check plaster thickness while they're applying. If there's an area that looks thin check with a toothpick. If they know you're checking you probably won't have any issues. Plaster application is a very fluid process. There's not much time to fix things so make sure they have everything they need if the builder's not on site. What does your contract say about your obligations and his for start up? Who tests the water adds the acid? What's their process for maintaining pool water chemistry. There are several ways to do this. You can read up on it here. All builders seem to do this a little differently. And most seem to involve the owner to some degree or have a subcontractor that does all their pools. All those things matter a lot. If they're not done right you may not see it until your plaster is failing early in 5 years instead of 15. If it was me, I'd be there and delay plaster if needed unless you are very certain they'd do everything as well as you would. Does your contract have a "time is of the essence" clause?

Looks like you don't have any bond coat. Technically most plasters claim to have binders so bond coat's not needed but not all. I would find your plaster's website and see what's recommended and talk to your builder about this if the plaster company recommends it. In my case it was ~0.5% of the pool cost to do it so I did.

Chris
 
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Wow that's a tough situation. I'd want to be there at the very least to check plaster thickness while they're applying. If there's an area that looks thin check with a toothpick. If they know you're checking you probably won't have any issues. Plaster application is a very fluid process. There's not much time to fix things so make sure they have everything they need if the builder's not on site. What does your contract say about your obligations and his for start up? Who tests the water adds the acid? What's their process for maintaining pool water chemistry. There are several ways to do this. You can read up on it here. All builders seem to do this a little differently. And most seem to involve the owner to some degree or have a subcontractor that does all their pools. All those things matter a lot. If they're not done right you may not see it until your plaster is failing early in 5 years instead of 15. If it was me, I'd be there and delay plaster if needed unless you are very certain they'd do everything as well as you would. Does your contract have a "time is of the essence" clause?

Looks like you don't have any bond coat. Technically most plasters claim to have binders so bond coat's not needed but not all. I would find your plaster's website and see what's recommended and talk to your builder about this if the plaster company recommends it. In my case it was ~0.5% of the pool cost to do it so I did.

Chris
The builder both owner and foreman will be here for the plaster process. It is a company they have used for years and do a very good job (per them). Pool startup is handled by the pool builder as well for the first 10-15 days, they will maintain all chemicals etc.
 
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All - i just realized that when interviewing pool builders i had specified that overflow should not be in skimmer however i did not realize until now that my PB put it in the skimmer. For the longest time i did not know what the drain in the skimmer was. How big of a deal is this?

Also i realized i my system does not bypass the heater, again how big of a deal is this? Should I pay to have them do this assuming it is not more than a few hundred to do and it can actually be done given everything has been completed for a while.

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Technically that drain is not in the skimmer. It is on the tile line at the skimmer mouth opening,

Post pics of your equipment pad and show us how your heater is plumbed.
 
It is normal to have delays due to rain, how long that is really depends on soil conditions. One thing to consider is you don’t want crews working in unsafe conditions such as mud, best to be on the safe side and give the soil time to dry out.

Hi i did not want to hijack the other thread, for the bypass is it manual or automatic. Do they add an actuator so it automatically switches over when the heater/chiller kicks on? The designer guy was commenting saying i would have to manually go out and redirect the valve. Thanks,
 
It is time for you to create your signature with details of your pool and equipment so we can answer your questions.

I have lost track of what automation system you have and do know if it can automatically turn an actuator for the heater bypass.
 
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