New Automation Conversion Project

setsailsoon

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Oct 25, 2015
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Chris,

The difference between an Aux Circuit and a Feature Circuit is that the Aux Circuit has a relay and the Feature Circuit does not.. Pretty simple actually.... If you want to control something that uses 120/220 volts to run, then you will need a relay (aux circuit).. If you want to control something that does not need 120/220 volts, you can use a Feature circuit. Features circuits can be used to control pump speeds or turn valves on/off... Both Aux circuits and Feature circuits can be turned on manually or can be scheduled.

You don't "schedule" a pump.. You scheduled a Circuit and then assign the Circuit name to the pump.. As in... Schedule "Pool" circuit from 8 am until 8 pm and then assign "Pool" circuit to the list of speeds for your pump.. Here is a ScreenLogic shot of my set up. Your set up pages will be different, but the basic idea is the same.. You can see where I have a minimum speed for Pool and then can change the speed based upon which other circuits are on, such as skim low or waterfall circuits..


Once you understand Pentair's logic it really is pretty simple..

Thanks,

Jim R.
Thanks much Jim, that helps a lot!

Chris
 

Jimrahbe

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Chris,

I am not a fan of using the relays out of order... I like the idea that the relays should follow the diagram on the door, with the Pump/Filter relay being in the upper left side and then Aux 1, 2, 3 and with the second row being Aux 3, 4, 5, 6, and 7...

But whatever works for you works for me... :)

Jim R.
 

setsailsoon

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Jim,

I agree, it just makes sense to do it that way. I was just short on wire length. It's already bothering me though. So I'll probably be pulling new conductors tomorrow.😣

Chris
 

setsailsoon

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Thanks much Jim, that helps a lot!

Chris
Ok, I thought I understood but didn't want to wait 'till morning. So I created a circuit named "Spillover" then assigned it to rotate the return valve. It can be schedule or run manually. And best of all, I had to go outside and check. It works! Who'd of thunk? After playing around I found out how to get the drop down list of "pre-made" circuits and found the one called Spillway...

I also found the web version of the control app. Waaay easier to program from here! The more I learn about this system the better I like it!

Chris
 

Jimrahbe

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Chris,

I have no clue how the programming works on the IntelliCenter, but know that with my EasyTouch using the PC is so much easier than using a phone or the little 3" LCD display...

You can also make the pump changes speeds to adjust the spillover flow...

Keep in mind the pump will always run at the faster speed if more than one speed is used... As an example.. If you are running at 1200 and then turn on a circuit that calls for 1500, the pump will increase in speed.. If however, you are running at 1500, and turn on a circuit that calls for 1200, the pump will continue to run at 1500 unless you turn 1500 off...

Thanks,

Jim R.
 

setsailsoon

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Oct 25, 2015
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Made a lot of progress yesterday and today:
  • Got all the wiring completed except re-pulling the filter pump wires. The conductors were too short to reach the top left relay and I'm anal enough that it bothers me to have them out of order. Especially with Jim noticing it! At least everything works now so I could get everything programmed. I hope to pull the final 2 new conductors tomorrow (ground was long enough).
  • I figured out how to configure the Jandy Jxi heater to work... thrilled that this was just a configuration issue. I had to configure the "remote" to be HI-LOW-COM. Default is off. To get to this press the menu, pool, and spa buttons simultaneous until in configuration mode then press the temp down button to scroll to "remote". Then press "menu" and scroll to HI-LOW-COM and press "menu" then "spa" to exit configuration mode. Here's what the screen needs to look like:
1570324805942.png












  • Also, you have to run a 2-conductor cable from the power distribution panel J6 from "pool" and "common" to the Intellicenter board heater terminals. Pictures of both are shown below (used white bell wire):
1570325149728.png
















1570325264357.png














  • Got the lights set wired in and configured them as "Globrite" this has the same relay power pulse technique to rotate through the colors and effects. Colors don't match the ones shown on the screen but with a little playing around I was able to figure out what colors we like.
  • Speaking of programming, this system is really simple to set up. All I needed was a little remedial help from Jim to understand how to set up circuits and link them to the relays or low voltage AUX channels. Easy peasy after that. Thanks again Jim!
  • Finally here are photos of the wiring as it stands now. Still need to tidy up with small zip ties. I also like to add dymo labels to the wire groups as they enter the bottom and the individual breakers so I can figure things out easier if changes are needed in the future. You can see I've started a little of this:
1570326042370.png















That's all for today and I'd appreciate any comments or suggestions.

Chris
 
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setsailsoon

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Oct 25, 2015
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Folks,

Does anybody know if there's a way to set up a light such that I could set the color that is generated with for each number of pulses? Seems like it should be doable as a generic color led color light since they all seem to use a pulse coder/decoder as a way to select color. I've got my Jandy LED's working using the IntelliBrite light type but the sequence is different for my Jandy's so the color selector doesn't match up.

Chris
 

setsailsoon

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Before I go out to pull wire today I thought I'd document a couple of learning's:
  • Packing up my tools and lugging them back inside is a pain. So I've found that draping a heavy duty tarp (that was just gathering dust in the garage for years) gives me a little precious time before the bugs come out and also lets me cover everything quickly when those drenching storms roll in out of nowhere.:
1570382222102.png






  • Keeping a small trash bucket on hand keep the site reasonably free of trip hazards. It also helps avoid stopping work to clean up the mess after Sr. Management (my wife) pays a visit:

1570382839178.png

















  • I'm on the steep side of the learning curve for the Intellicenter. One thing I learned today is if you accidentally create two circuits for the same purpose and then delete the first one don't expect the second one to work. You'll have to delete it and configure a new one. Another thing I learned is that when you add a "Featured Circuit" you'll find it will be named something like "Feature 1" by delete. This obscures a great capability of the software. Delete the name then put your curser in the space. This opens a huge list of pre-configured features. It's probably documented somewhere in the manual but I missed it if so.
Now, out to pull my last 2 wires.

Chris
 

setsailsoon

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Oct 25, 2015
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Finally getting to the end of this project:
  • All wires have been re-pulled that needed to be extended... finally!
  • Now I can configure the wiring the way I want to. I find that it's easier to start cleaning up the wiring at the top of the box with the relays. Then work my way down. It's time consuming but worth it if ever need to add or modify the wiring. The top row of relays starting on the left are Pool Filter, Spa Booster Pump, Pool Lights and then Chlorinator. Notice the line side of the chlorinator relays is powered off the Pool Pump load side. This allows me to set the chlorinator run time independent of the pump and I also can't run it without the pump power on so I'm not only relying on the flow switch.
1570407006516.png
  • I find when I take on one of these larger projects it's good to keep in mind what it's all about:
1570407419464.png
 

setsailsoon

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Looks better and I am sure make you feel better doing it right... :thumleft:

Jim R.
Yep, much better! Can't wait to get it all tidied up and labeled.

I got rained out today and I've been waiting for a good time to post my configuration settings. So I've posted the phone screenshots; all of this is very configurable from the phone. It's even easier from the computer. I love having my automation control available once again! And with huge capability to expand to much more than pool equipment. I've listed a number of the more important pages that most pool/spa owners will want below. If anybody wants something I've left out just let me know and I'll add it.

I hope this is useful for others with new installations or converting to Intellicenter.

Chris

The summary page:

1570493107572.png



























Here are the circuits set up for my pool/spa:

1570493336778.png

1570493477603.png

Once you set up the circuits, scheduling is a snap:

1570493681076.png
 

setsailsoon

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Oct 25, 2015
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Stuart/FL
Folks,

This project has been going so well I was amazed... till yesterday. Everybody that works on electric equipment learns this rule day one :

ALWAYS CHECK THE BREAKER IS OFF BEFORE STARTING WORK AND BEFORE LEAVING FOR ANY REASON NO MATTER WHAT!

All my life I've been focused on safety at work and extremely proud of the safety advances we've achieved. I caused what I'd call a near-miss for serious injury and damage. Luckily for me it was only the latter. But the reality is that working on a very small project by yourself it can be even more important to focus on safety. This is more than a little embarrassing but I'm sharing this to make lemonade out of this lemon. Maybe it will help avoid an accident by another person on this forum. Here's what happened:

The weather was intermittent drizzle. I have a waterproof tarp at my equipment pad so I can switch off power then cover everything with the tarp and retreat to the covered patio till the rain burst stops then return. I follow a meticulous process to switch off power FIRST! Then cover then return then check power again. I do this every single time... except once. An that's all it took. So I was doing some final connection checks on my signal wire to the swing out electrical connections panel on the Jxi heater. Just wanted to be sure that all wires were secured so that nothing could move and cause an intermittent fault. With the heater powered up I wiggled the wires and everything was perfect. I guess I was just enjoying the cool breeze too much to realize a huge storm was on it's way. Feeling pretty good about my accomplishment I went to the house for a break. Just as I poured my ice water I saw rain drops hitting the pool surface. I though "wait did I turn off power?" "No! Darn it!" so I ran out to throw on the tarp. At this point it wasn't raining too hard but about a cup or two of water had accumulated in a low spot on the tarp that drenched the Power Distribution Board. Simultaneous, with the loud pop I realized I should have checked the breaker first. I now broke the safety rule twice. Once when I was so proud of my accomplishment I failed to turn it off before leaving and next right now when I returned.

So when an accident or near-miss happens I'm taught to acknowledge it, then analyze it, then publicize it to the organization so the learning can benefit co-workers. You all are in a sense my co-workers. So that's what I'm trying to accomplish here.

Thanks for reading and I hope this can help others avoid my mistake.

Chris
 
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Jimrahbe

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Chris,

Just makes you like the rest of us... I don't know anyone that has worked with electricity/electronics that has not had at least one "incident" in their life, most a lot more.. :mrgreen:

Jim R.
 

setsailsoon

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Oct 25, 2015
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Stuart/FL
Chris,

Just makes you like the rest of us... I don't know anyone that has worked with electricity/electronics that has not had at least one "incident" in their life, most a lot more.. :mrgreen:

Jim R.
Thanks Jim. That helps.

I'm on to the repair now. There are 3 components on the swing out electrical panel. The solid state ignition control module, the universal control PCB, and the power distribution board. It has a small pcb board that plugs into a connector one way for 240 v and you flip it over for 120 v. The unit was totally dead and I can see that the copper connectors melted and shorted out. The 120 v side looks OK and I was able to power most of it up using the 120 v side and routing to a 120 v breaker, except power to the fan. I did get the flashing light on the control module diagnostic LED that indicates no air flow so I had some hope it's only affected the power control board. That's certainly the only part with burnt spot on it. I found a new one under $70. Should be here tomorrow. Hope that does the trick since the other two components are about $300 each!

Chris
 

ajw22

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Jul 21, 2013
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Northern NJ
Chris, working around electrical and electronics you blow stuff up. It just comes with the territory.

I am surprised the PDB shorted out from a bit of water getting on it. It shows how water and electronics don;t mix well and are always an issue around pool equipment, even though this water was from rain.

The longer a project takes the more you need to watch out for complacency.

We never make the same mistake twice but we seem to find new mistakes to make.
 

setsailsoon

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Oct 25, 2015
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Thanks Allen, it's disconcerting but I'll get over it... will help a lot if the replacement power distribution board works!

On the bright side now I know first-hand why you and Jim are such fans of the Intellicenter. It's really superb. I've heard they have outstanding customer support but I haven't need it so far. Just followed directions and everything worked.

Chris
 

setsailsoon

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Oct 25, 2015
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Well still no heater. Got the new power distribution board and installed but no joy, still dead heater. No power even to the panel. So I started looking at the circuit and it looks like power goes straight from the power distribution board to the ignition control module then to the blower and the 24 vac transformer so long as the ignition safety sensors are in the right positions. But even if the sensors are not reading "safe to start ignition sequence" there should be line voltage from the ignition control to the transformer so the panel can display. This isn't happening. Checking voltages I had no power at the transformer nor at the blower. So I ran 240v directly to the blower, it worked. Finally something was going right! Then removed the transformer and I tested the windings for resistance. 8.5 ohms on the 240 vac tap, about half that on the 120 vac tap and 1.25 vac on the secondary. Seemed to indicate the transformer was good so I hooked it up on the bench to 240 vac and it worked as well with 26 vac on the secondary with no load. This all leads me to believe the ignition control module is the culprit. It's a special version of the Fenwel gas HVAC heater ignition controls and I was able to find it for about $100 vs $300 from pools stores for the exact same part re-boxed as the Jandy part. Looks like one week delivery so I'll finish buttoning up the rest and at least I'm still getting plenty of heat from the solar heater to keep the pool swimable for us cold weather wimps.

Any comments or suggestions?