New (and first ever) Pool! Dallas, TX

Ahhh That is where our "language" breakdown is coming from. The test kits we use have a test for FC (free chlorine) and CC – Combined Chlorine – CC over 0.5ppm indicates a problem. Your test combines both of these to equal your residual chlorine. It is an okay test but not the best one available.

I would like for you to look at this link. It will show your the test kits we think are the best out there as they test everything so you can know everything about your water:
Test Kits Compared - Trouble Free Pool As you can see the TF-100 has more of the regents we use the most as seen by the basic pool schedule in the links I posted above. You can find the link to it in my siggy below.

Kim:kim:
 
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Ahhh That is where our "language" breakdown is coming from. The test kits we use have a test for FC (free chlorine) and CC – Combined Chlorine – CC over 0.5ppm indicates a problem. Your test combines both of these to equal your residual chlorine. It is an okay test but not the best one available.

I would like for you to look at this link. It will show your the test kits we think are the best out there as they test everything so you can know everything about your water:
Test Kits Compared - Trouble Free Pool As you can see the TF-100 has more of the regents we use the most as seen by the basic pool schedule in the links I posted above. You can find the link to it in my siggy below.

Kim:kim:
Ok we can definitely get the new kit when we get back from vacation but before then should we be adding bleach?? Or just working with the acid to lower the pH
 
Both.............You have to get the pH down and the FC up or you will end up with your plaster scaling and algae in your pool.
Ok great, I understand! We are about to get the stuff and will start with the muriatic acid when we get home! Thank you so much!
 
Use great care working with the m. acid. It's fumes are yucky!!! Make sure to put something under the jug and measuring cup so you don't mess up your decking or coping.
Thank you that is good to know!! We picked up some plastic measuring cups and will use a plastic sheet under the acid
 
Seems like we only have to add less than 2 oz of acid based on the app. I guess we will start with that. Just wanted to check since the printouts describe the time it would take to pour an entire bottle, and the acid is sold in large containers. We will add the two ounces and see!
 
Seems like we only have to add less than 2 oz of acid based on the app. I guess we will start with that. Just wanted to check since the printouts describe the time it would take to pour an entire bottle, and the acid is sold in large containers. We will add the two ounces and see!
Or is it 2 oz per gallon???? I am very confused
 
Or is it 2 oz per gallon???? I am very confused

Your pH is at least 7.8, likely higher, and you're looking to get down to ~7.5. Plugging your pool volume into pool math I get 15oz of 31.5% muriatic acid to lower the pH by 0.3 (or 30oz of 14.5% MA).

The thing is your test isn't accurate above pH of 7.8, so you're going to have to try adding either 15 or 30 oz of MA (depending on which concentration you have), circulate for at least 30 min to make sure it's mixed in well, and then test again to see where the pH is.
 
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Your pH is at least 7.8, likely higher, and you're looking to get down to ~7.5. Plugging your pool volume into pool math I get 15oz of 31.5% muriatic acid to lower the pH by 0.3 (or 30oz of 14.5% MA).

The thing is your test isn't accurate above pH of 7.8, so you're going to have to try adding either 15 or 30 oz of MA (depending on which concentration you have), circulate for at least 30 min to make sure it's mixed in well, and then test again to see where the pH is.
Ok, thank you! We have the stronger acid. I think where I went wrong with the app is not putting in a value for total alkalinity since I wasn’t sure.
 

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Ok so the pH looks mildly better and takes only one drop to finish the acid demand test. However when I did the total alkalinity test I had to use 9 drops to get the color right. I attached a picture of the test booklet interpretation. Does that mean it is 90ppm? And should I work on that before I get to the pH again?
 

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Ok so the pH looks mildly better and takes only one drop to finish the acid demand test. However when I did the total alkalinity test I had to use 9 drops to get the color right. I attached a picture of the test booklet interpretation. Does that mean it is 90ppm? And should I work on that before I get to the pH again?

Hard to tell for sure based on that page of the booklet (that page deals with adjusting TA, not interpreting the result), but it sounds like 9 drops equals 90ppm TA. If you do have 90ppm TA then there's nothing to work on, that's pretty close to ideal.
 
Hard to tell for sure based on that page of the booklet (that page deals with adjusting TA, not interpreting the result), but it sounds like 9 drops equals 90ppm TA. If you do have 90ppm TA then there's nothing to work on, that's pretty close to ideal.
Ok great! We will get back to trying to lower the pH then. Thank you!
 
We are making some real progress over here! It’s actually pretty rewarding. However now that we are close to it all being balanced and it’s starting to slightly clear up, I’m wondering - is there anything we should do additionally before we go on vacation for five days?
 
Clearing it up and getting everything balanced as seen in the dark green link "Recommend levels" in my siggy below. Note the levels have ranges. We will work on tweaking your pool when you get back to find the purrfect leve for everything for YOUR pool.

When do you leave?

Kim:kim:
 
Clearing it up and getting everything balanced as seen in the dark green link "Recommend levels" in my siggy below. Note the levels have ranges. We will work on tweaking your pool when you get back to find the purrfect leve for everything for YOUR pool.

When do you leave?

Kim:kim:
Ok sounds good! I will post went I get back if things are messy. Should I start a new thread somewhere when I do that? Not in the “under construction” forum?
 

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