Need to drain pool

[GreatScott]

Not so quick questions:
Our pool was finished Apr 2020 and I remember it would not hold chlorine or CYA and inwas

Now our pool store score is 50, cya over 150, starting to get green buildup on walls, and need to drain. Report attached

I was planning to replace half the water and use the pump backwash setting with the main drains and close off the skimmers. We are reading never use the pool pumps and also never above 80 degrees which it is.

we are still learning and any guidance is appreciated, thanks

 

[setsailsoon]

Scott,

Sorry to hear about your woes. I'm sure you've read this on other posts but I wouldn't do anything 'till you get your own test results from a recommended kit. I see you've been on here for over a year and you may know how we do pool care but just in case here is some information on the way we manage pools:
ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
Test Kits Compared

The only thing I can advise is to get your kit on order asap! Also, please remember we don't sell anything. This often explains why our advice is different from others especially pool stores. We have over 200,000 users of TFP methods because they work and they're dirt cheap. While your kit is on order you can read up on our water exchange method in case you really do need it.

I hope this is helpful.

Chris

 

[Newdude]

Hey GS and welcome !!

1) File for divorce from the pool store. Don’t worry they already got ‘half’. Not much more they can do to you at this point.

2) order a reliable test kit. The TF-100 from tftestkits.net is liquid gold. It will save you thousands while avoiding the pool store.

3) post up your reliable test results and we will guide you the dirt cheap way (and get this…… it is also the effective way with stupid clear water).

 

[GreatScott]

I have a test kit that came with the pool it’s just been easier to let them do it. I’ve been here a year but only came for specific questions. I’m doing a half drain now then will dive into everything this site us to offer. I’ll do my own test tomorrow when it’s full. Thanks

 

[Newdude]

have a test kit that came with the pool it’s just been easier to let them do it

Not gonna lie, it seems like rocket science at first. But after a dozen tests, you can run the full suite in less time than the pool store machine takes. Plus the walking in, parking and driving there.

I found it was stupid easy to just focus on one test. Read that tests needs and get the 2 or 3 bottles ready. Each step is crazy easy if you only worry about one line at a time. But when I first got my kit and saw the instructions as a whole it was overwhelming. When I finallay got around to trying I kicked myself big time. Before long it’s second nature and you’ll be your own pro.

 

[Candurin]

I’ll second the stupidly easy part with the TFTest Kit. Especially if you get the smart/speed stir thingy. I can run FC, CYA, TA, pH, CH and salt all in under 10 min (that’s over-estimating too), including time to sip coffee and log it in the app.

 

[LoneWolfArcher]

I'll third it. What is also really inaccurate is pool store testing. They test to sell you things. A real test kit will tell you the real answer on your pool chemistry.

@GreatScott, what kind of pool? Size? You should look at some of our signatures and add one like that for yourself. It will help people offer advice.

 

[Donldson]

it’s just been easier to let them do it.

In only a year you have to dump half of your water because it's gotten so out of whack. That doesn't sound like easy pool care to me.

 

[CraigChing]

I took the time to understand the difference between my test measurements and the pool store’s measurements. Suffice it to say, my conclusion was that they doctor their numbers a bit assuming you manage your pool a particular way (i.e. using dichlor pucks which add CYA and can be acidic). If you want help here, manage your pool with liquid chlorine and use one of the specified test kits and you will be super happy with crystal clear water to swim in! Don’t let those “free” tests fool you, they are anything but! We trust your testing with a good test kit any day of the week over pool store testing for good reason!

 

[Oly]

The best guidance is to test your pool water at home, yourself with a quality test kit. What follows this is the solution and that is straight forward, inexpensive, predictable and eventually trouble free.

 

[GreatScott]

Thanks for the replies. I remembered why I started using store testing, the kit from the builder doesn't test CYA, calcium or phosphates. I have a 13,000 gallon plaster pool with the 3" puck feeder. I know those also have CYA.

Pool refilled and shocked. Tested 1.5 hr later with my kit, eyeballing colors.
Both free and total chlorine look 1.5 which makes combined 0?
ph 7.8, acid demand took 7 drops to get to 7.2
alk 18 drops, so 180

I can let it run tomorrow and check chlorine again but I should bring alk down first right?

 

[Oly]

Thanks for the replies. I remembered why I started using store testing, the kit from the builder doesn't test CYA, calcium .....

OK, you realized the test you have is missing two important pool water tests in order to balance your pool, that's good but your solution was to assume the pool store data is correct, that was not so good.
We could bomb you with examples of bad test results and money wasted from "free tests" but the bottom line is you need to verify your numbers yourself at home as often as you need to make this work.
To develop a sound sanitation plan, diagnose and balance your pool water you need to have a test kit that is capable of testing CYA, Calcium, pH, TA (Total Alkalinity) but you also need to test the FC, (Free Chlorine) and CC with a kit that utilizes a FAS-DPD testing procedure, this is very important. This one difference provides so much more information for diagnosis and treatment planning. Reread post #2 from Chris above and the links he provided, those are the kits recommended. Invest the $ in the tools needed and learn to use them, it is easy, repeatable, accurate and precise enough to get you on the right track.

Anything you do now regarding your CYA, Calcium and water balance is an assumption. Your very basic test results above are a start and note your FC is very low, check this chart... FC/CYA Levels
Your alkalinity is not a major concern now, you can reduce your pH with muratic acid but you should be adding liquid chlorine to your water soon and every day until your can confirm your CYA and Calcium ppm to determine your next move.

 

[GreatScott]

I will get a kit but it will be 2 weeks before it gets here. Does that store support this site? Which one the tft 100 xl?

I added a gallon of chlorine after the refill. I assume the chlorine is low because the feeder had not been on long. You mean the liquid chlorine I use to shock right? How much do I add every day until the kit comes?I have maybe 5 gallons. I’ve seen that chart, my CYA was over 150 (store score yes ) but have no clue after replacing 6000 gallons. I’ll test FC with my kit every day until the new one comes but what should I target using liquid?

 

[proavia]

It looks like any of the TF testkits are backordered until 6/26. If that holds true and you order today, you should have it by the end of next week. The TF-100 or TF-PRO is the best value for the residential pool owner.

If you replaced 6000 gallons in your 13000 gallon pool, your CYA reduced by less than 50%. So a 150+ CYA is at best now 80+.

Get that testkit ordered ASAP. While waiting for it to arrive and if your test results are anywhere near correct, you should drain/replace 50% of your water again to get your CYA down. Initially add 1 gallon of chlorine and then add 1/2 gallon of 10% chlorine daily until the testkit arrives. Also, fill out your signature with your pool and pool equipment specs (including model numbers) and what testkit you are ordering.

 

[GreatScott]

Thank you. I ordered the tf 100 xl and a magnetic stirrer. I will add 1/2 gallon liquid chlorine a day until I can test CYA and determine if another replacement is needed. I have the blue whale sodium hypochlorite. Is bleach really a good sub and where is the best place for bulk? Should I remove the chlorine tabs from the chlorinator since they have CYA? If you are not using a chlorinator are you really adding liquid bleach every day all year round?

 

[Oly]

Yes during the summer chlorine needs to be added every day. Liquid can be dosed by hand, automated injection or with a salt water chlorine generation system. You can call around for a Hasa dealer that sells 12% in totes of 4 gal or get 10% at Home Depot or Lowes. I would pull out the tabs un until you test your CYA.

 

[GreatScott]

Thank you. Test ordered. 1/2 gal liquid chlorine added 24oz MA added. Chorine up to 3, PH same 7.8, Alk up to 190 from 180. Tabs pulled from chlorinator. Water LOOKS much better today

*edit LOOKS better but still plumes of green/brown when brushing the bottom

 

[Casey]

Sounds like you'll be needing to SLAM once your test kit arrives. Keep adding your FC daily. You're going to love the magnetic stirrer.

 

[LoneWolfArcher]

Thank you. Test ordered. 1/2 gal liquid chlorine added 24oz MA added. Chorine up to 3, PH same 7.8, Alk up to 190 from 180. Tabs pulled from chlorinator. Water LOOKS much better today

*edit LOOKS better but still plumes of green/brown when brushing the bottom

Just keep the daily chlorine add up until you get that kit. I am dubious of any test results done other than with a real test kit.

Are you sure you are getting green/brown? I ask because when algae is dead it is very fine brown silt at the bottom and brushing it will get stirred up and suspended into the water until it settles again. I agree with the above that once you get your kit you can do an OCLT and SLAM to be sure. But until you get that kit anything you will be essentially flying blind, especially not knowing CYA.

 

[GreatScott]

Yes the bottom looks fine, maybe slight areas of brown, until you brush then get a darker brown/green plume that suspends.

I understand with the kit and its ordered. I have a taylor 1004 that only reads FC to 5. From that chart if CYA is still 80 I need FC at 9 and yesterday it got to 3. I understood the liquid is not stable and dissolves in 12-24 hours which is why we used tabs. So the liquid will not build up over time right and is why you add every day?

Added 2 more gallons this morning will test again tonight