Need some help designing plumbing layout

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M

Maurino17

0
Nov 24, 2016
96
Bergen county nj
Hello,
I decided to move my pump/filter and set up all new electric as well for a new heater.
I will also be adding a salt water generator.
How does my proposed plumbing situation look?
Am I missing anything?
I know the SWG flow switch is supposed to do after the heater and before the salt cell, but I am running out of room coming out of the heater. Can it go where I proposed?
thanks
PS The hoses in the pic are for display only, I will be using 1.5 in pcv hard pipe in ground and some flex out of ground.

 
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You can always run the salt cell vertically if you don't have the room. Be sure to wire it to the pump so it only has power if the pump is operating. Be sure the manufacturer does not recommend X feet of straight pipe before the salt cell.
 
thanks, I am going to wire it into my timer so only runs with pump.
I was looking for pics of vertical setups and see that can be done, I am trying to avoid too many turns not to lose pressure.
Thanks for recommendation to check about straight pipe requirement.
I am going with PureChlor, didn't see anything noted in manual but will double check.
 
Put a diverter for your heater in as well, on the output kick the return back towards the pump with a 90, go at least 18" put check, flow switch, swg. 90 down and head to the pool. 90's really don't matter, you would only be adding one 90 which you could look up is the same as adding 3-9' of pipe
 
cfherrman said:
Put a diverter for your heater in as well, on the output kick the return back towards the pump with a 90, go at least 18" put check, flow switch, swg. 90 down and head to the pool. 90's really don't matter, you would only be adding one 90 which you could look up is the same as adding 3-9' of pipe
Click to expand...

Thanks for advice. Are you referring to this kind of setup?

http://www.swimmingpoolsteve.com/images/demo/salt-cell.jpg

Good suggestion on diverter, is that just for maintenance? I don't think I'll be running pump without heater on.
 
The diverter is for when you are not running the heater so it can't be corroded when not in use.

Out of the heat, put a 90 and run it horizontal back to the right, towards the pump, you have tons of room there in a line. When you get all your fittings you turn down into the ground and headed back into the pool
 
cfherrman said:
The diverter is for when you are not running the heater so it can't be corroded when not in use.

Out of the heat, put a 90 and run it horizontal back to the right, towards the pump, you have tons of room there in a line. When you get all your fittings you turn down into the ground and headed back into the pool
Click to expand...

thanks! that was actually my other thought to use the same trench as the supply line. I did dig two trenches to have most direct lines but I guess I am overthinking the turns.
 
Your electric looks kinda low in that picture. You are in NJ also, think about the snow sitting there in winter. I would have rotated the heat pump and ran inlet straight in from filter then go over it for outlet and you then have plenty of room. I wouldnt use flex at all, just hard pipe it. Much better install and use jandy neverlube valves. You really dont need a check valve with a SWG after the heater, theres no concentrated water to go backwards, it's a must when using chlorine dispensers. Just use long sweep 90s and you wont have any flow issues, stay away from street 90s. Make sure you use sch 40 pipe, lowes by you has good selection in stock. There are standards regarding minimum straight pipe into pump and around the SWG and flow switch piping.
 
jimmythegreek said:
Your electric looks kinda low in that picture. You are in NJ also, think about the snow sitting there in winter. I would have rotated the heat pump and ran inlet straight in from filter then go over it for outlet and you then have plenty of room. I wouldnt use flex at all, just hard pipe it. Much better install and use jandy neverlube valves. You really dont need a check valve with a SWG after the heater, theres no concentrated water to go backwards, it's a must when using chlorine dispensers. Just use long sweep 90s and you wont have any flow issues, stay away from street 90s. Make sure you use sch 40 pipe, lowes by you has good selection in stock. There are standards regarding minimum straight pipe into pump and around the SWG and flow switch piping.
Click to expand...

Thanks Jimmy, all good suggestions. I think you are right I could have gone higher with my subpanel, I may build a little roof over it, carpentry is my real hobby. :)

I wanted the check valve so I can open the top of my cartridge filter and not have water come out. It was a pain last year but the equip was right behind the pool so maybe i won't even have that issue now.

Will use sweep 90's for sure!
 
If you open the filter you want to drain the filter body first theres an access on the bottom for this. If it's a pain to get to install a piece if pipe and a shutoff valve instead of the plug that comes with it. If your equipment is lower than the pool level you will need valves instead of check valve to isolate both ends
 

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Check valves should never be relied on to actually hold back water, a better option is just a valve, unless you forget stuff like that valve you closed then a check is better.

Sweeps are ok, I don't recommend them because people typically get dwv sweeps, so make sure they say sch 40 on them
 
I’m trying to find parts, the stores don’t have anything. I want the Flow Vis as well which I’ll have to order.

I was thinking of doing 2 inch pipe between the filter and heater, and 2 inch coming out of the heater and reducing before going back into ground to return to pool.

Is there anything to keep in mind moving between 1.5 and 2 in?
 
What size do you have going into and out of pool. And then what sizes are each line and what's tied in? Then you have to figure on size for equipment. The only thing to make sure of is when you go down in size you need sch40 bushings not dwv. Leslie's has stuff in stock but expensive. In your case a flow vis isn't gonna matter unless you have a VS pump. Post your pipe info from above and I'll guide you
 
jimmythegreek said:
What size do you have going into and out of pool. And then what sizes are each line and what's tied in? Then you have to figure on size for equipment. The only thing to make sure of is when you go down in size you need sch40 bushings not dwv. Leslie's has stuff in stock but expensive. In your case a flow vis isn't gonna matter unless you have a VS pump. Post your pipe info from above and I'll guide you
Click to expand...
Thanks Jimmy, I just found a new store called jersey chemical in Paterson where I bought my SWG. The owner helped me design my setup and I bought all the pool specific fittings. They weren’t cheap lol I even bought the pool specific couplings for my in ground run. Hope it was worth it. ?

I’m reducing everything down to 1.5. I’m about to go dry fit and will post pics.

The store owner is convinced my above ground set up won’t work since I relocated the equip and running lines underground. I’m afraid he’s probably right but I just bought it last year so want to give it a shot.
 
jimmythegreek said:
What size do you have going into and out of pool. And then what sizes are each line and what's tied in? Then you have to figure on size for equipment. The only thing to make sure of is when you go down in size you need sch40 bushings not dwv. Leslie's has stuff in stock but expensive. In your case a flow vis isn't gonna matter unless you have a VS pump. Post your pipe info from above and I'll guide you
Click to expand...

Forgot to add he laughed at me when I asked for flow vis. Lol nice guy just trying to save me money which is cool.
 

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