Need patio suggestions with future plumbing in mind

ShinDiors

Well-known member
Jul 16, 2021
233
Northern VA
Pool Size
20500
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
We have this composite deck that is adjacent to the concrete pool deck. According to the location of two skimmers and pool equipment shed, the pool plumbing most likely is under the deck (not sure if it is above the dirt or not), also the gas line to the pool heater (not in use currently) is definitely going through under the deck.

With future plumbing fix (this is a very old pool we inherited, just renovated it two seasons ago) in mind, which type of deck would be easiest to access/repair pool plumbing and then return to its original condition afterwards, composite planks, pavers or stamped concrete?

I attached some pix here for reference. Thanks so much for your input.
p3-png.449171
CamScanner 02-10-2023 13.54.03-1.jpgScreenshot 2023-02-10 140604.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
We have this composite deck that is adjacent to the concrete pool deck. According to the location of two skimmers and pool equipment shed, the pool plumbing most likely is under the deck (not sure if it is above the dirt or not), also the gas line to the pool heater (not in use currently) is definitely going through under the deck.

With future plumbing fix (this is a very old pool we inherited, just renovated it two seasons ago) in mind, which type of deck would be easiest to access/repair pool plumbing and then return to its original condition afterwards, composite planks, pavers or stamped concrete?

I attached some pix here for reference. Thanks so much for your input.
p3-png.449171
Stamped concrete is the same thing as poured concrete is so it’s definitely not easy or cheap to remove and replace. Unless you mean something else. Composite decking is pretty easy to remove and replace, but I’d guess that pavers are a bit harder but do-able. Decking can just be unscrewed. Pavers need to have the sub base leveled and compacted.
 
Stamped concrete is the same thing as poured concrete is so it’s definitely not easy or cheap to remove and replace. Unless you mean something else. Composite decking is pretty easy to remove and replace, but I’d guess that pavers are a bit harder but do-able. Decking can just be unscrewed. Pavers need to have the sub base leveled and compacted.
For composite deck, the concern is many planks and even the supporting frames would need to be removed in order to access the ground, and may need to even replace the hardware (ledger?) that connects the deck to the house wall? Especially when we do no have a clear idea how the pipes go underground.
 
So there are no good choices here. You can pull up pavers if the need arises but not only will the digging be miserable from all the compacting, it will be alot of work to get just right when prepping and replacing the stones. You may end up with a small bump or a depression if it settles after. You'll pay alot in labor here.

Concrete can be cut and patched, but the patch never matches. Your best option then is to coat/paint the whole patio so it matches. There are several types of application such as Kool deck, but the good ones are spendy.

A wood/composite deck can be disassembled but either the planks or the framing will run perpendicular to the plumbing and need to be fully removed. If the framing is the problem, then you'll be pulling both the frame and of course the planks. Labor will again be very high as decking is time consuming with 5000 screws one at a time.

No matter which patio you decide to go with, you'll expect it to last decades. If you don't feel the plumbing will also, bite the bullet and replace it now. It's penny wise and pound foolish to leave it.
 
So there are no good choices here. You can pull up pavers if the need arises but not only will the digging be miserable from all the compacting, it will be alot of work to get just right when prepping and replacing the stones. You may end up with a small bump or a depression if it settles after. You'll pay alot in labor here.

Concrete can be cut and patched, but the patch never matches. Your best option then is to coat/paint the whole patio so it matches. There are several types of application such as Kool deck, but the good ones are spendy.

A wood/composite deck can be disassembled but either the planks or the framing will run perpendicular to the plumbing and need to be fully removed. If the framing is the problem, then you'll be pulling both the frame and of course the planks. Labor will again be very high as decking is time consuming with 5000 screws one at a time.

No matter which patio you decide to go with, you'll expect it to last decades. If you don't feel the plumbing will also, bite the bullet and replace it now. It's penny wise and pound foolish to leave it.
I hear you, sigh...

Just a related question, do those underground pipes usually run underneath and long the concrete pool deck or they would come out and run a straight line from skimmer (left) to the pool pumps in that shed? And if there is underground leak, will there be some equipment to locate the routing of pipes (underground) like those who label underground utility lines before construction? It seems that either choice of patio/deck would involve a teardown and rebuild especially if we do not know exactly know the pipe routing.

Also for that gas line, is it better to let it hang in the air underneath a deck or it is OK to put gravel and base around it and compact it? Just had a stamped concrete specialty company come and take a look, and he was suggesting against the concrete although it was cheapest in their quotes (9.5k), deck was a whopping 24k. He was saying not comfortable putting the pressure of concrete on top of that gas pipe...
 
We have this composite deck that is adjacent to the concrete pool deck. According to the location of two skimmers and pool equipment shed, the pool plumbing most likely is under the deck (not sure if it is above the dirt or not), also the gas line to the pool heater (not in use currently) is definitely going through under the deck.

With future plumbing fix (this is a very old pool we inherited, just renovated it two seasons ago) in mind, which type of deck would be easiest to access/repair pool plumbing and then return to its original condition afterwards, composite planks, pavers or stamped concrete?
It would be good to show how many returns you have in your pool. Also, where is the suction pipes & return pipes going into your pump - maybe a a different view photo of your equipment pad. I think some of the long plumbing to your returns may be under that existing concrete deck. It could be from the skimmers or going to the returns. It should be buried 18 inches down but since your pool is very old, hard to be sure. Also, it may go under the bare ground or the existing composite deck to connect to the equipment pad.

I added a hardi-plank deck 13 yrs ago adjacent to my pool deck. It is in great shape today. It gets full sun and fully exposed to all weather events. I have had to remove planks which was easy since it is alll screwed down. Note - had a small dog find a way under it and could not get out and I had to modify some drainage I put under the deck.
 
I have two suction side inlets from two skimmers (left two pipes), one return pipe (right most pipe in photo)from the pump side, two return ports close to the two skimmers, one polaris port and one main drain at the deeper end floor (close to the right side skimmer on my drawing)
 

Attachments

  • 02B5093B-74AB-4570-8781-F99EB13B3C0D.jpeg
    02B5093B-74AB-4570-8781-F99EB13B3C0D.jpeg
    309.8 KB · Views: 17
  • 2D52CE84-70B5-4C48-AF24-EE77C2EC27A4.jpeg
    2D52CE84-70B5-4C48-AF24-EE77C2EC27A4.jpeg
    299.1 KB · Views: 17
Last edited:
I would vote for pavers first and composite deck second. You are going to have a whole bunch of mess when you trench for new pipes. Putting pavers back down will just be part of the cleanup job. Dry lay the pavers so they can be lifted and stacked before the pipe work.

There is no predicting how the plumber ran your pipes. We see all sorts of crazy plumber tricks in Under Construction pictures. Leak detection companies have Sounders and probes that may be able to trace your pipes underground.

Check with your local building codes if they allow above ground run of a gas line.
 
do those underground pipes usually run underneath and long the concrete pool deck or they would come out and run a straight line from skimmer (left) to the pool pumps in that shed?
I have been finding buried things for 26 years at work and lemme tell ya.....once it hits the dirt, it's anyone's guess. 30 years ago they went around a tree or a shed that's been gone for 25 years. Lol.
 
The pool heater was broken and we have not used it but may replace it in the future so we intend to keep the gas line. Since the gas line would be buried by gravel and the patio contractor was suggesting we replacing them before they cover it with dirt and gravel. It is probably put in back in the 1990s and is painted iron. There is stuff flaking off upon touch (feels like paint residue, instead of normal rust). Is it a good idea to just replace them while at it? Thanks a lot.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
. Is it a good idea to just replace them while at it?
I didn't have gas but I did have a 20 year old sprinkler line under the old patio with at least one splice in it as the pipe was different at both ends. It sucked, but I hand trenched a new one, well below the frost line before installing the new patio.

Maybe it would have lasted 30 more years, but I can tell you I would have spend more energy wondering if this year was the year it failed X30, than the effort spent replacing it.
 
The pool heater was broken and we have not used it but may replace it in the future so we intend to keep the gas line. Since the gas line would be buried by gravel and the patio contractor was suggesting we replacing them before they cover it with dirt and gravel. It is probably put in back in the 1990s and is painted iron. There is stuff flaking off upon touch (feels like paint residue, instead of normal rust). Is it a good idea to just replace them while at it? Thanks a lot.
Since you are going to bury it under the deck - from a safety standpoint, I would replace it. You do not want to have a gas leak. Cheaper and safer to ensure it will last another 20 yrs. IMO.
 
Check local regulations for that. Black iron pipe is supposed to get the joints wrapped or painted in a certain way when buried.
 
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.