Need new pump and SWG. Sizing question and CircuPool feedback ?

FLRob2954

Member
Aug 9, 2021
18
Clearwater Florida
Pool Size
10000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
So my 220v 1.5 HP single speed pump motor burned up yesterday. I been thinking about VS and SWG for a while now, so i figure now is the time. I've renovated/replumbed/rewired 10+ bathrooms and 5+ kitchens in my time, so i'm not scared of plumbing or electrical but i have 0 experience working on pools. Was initially looking for contractor quotes on pentair, because of no DIY warranty, but they seem really high.

i stumbled upon Circupool then read some positive reviews here. On their site theres a package deal for both SWG RJ plus and Smartflo pump for nearly the same as pentair/hayward installed by a pool company with a waranty. Does this seem like a good route ? Any tips on sizing ? was thinking the 1.5 VS pump and RJ45+ Can you go too big on SWG ?

 

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So my 220v 1.5 HP single speed pump motor burned up yesterday. I been thinking about VS and SWG for a while now, so i figure now is the time. I've renovated/replumbed/rewired 10+ bathrooms and 5+ kitchens in my time, so i'm not scared of plumbing or electrical but i have 0 experience working on pools. Was initially looking for contractor quotes on pentair, because of no DIY warranty, but they seem really high.

i stumbled upon Circupool then read some positive reviews here. On their site theres a package deal for both SWG RJ plus and Smartflo pump for nearly the same as pentair/hayward installed by a pool company with a waranty. Does this seem like a good route ? Any tips on sizing ? was thinking the 1.5 VS pump and RJ45+ Can you go too big on SWG ?

If you go that route, get the 3hp pump and run it slower for the best energy savings.
 
If you go that route, get the 3hp pump and run it slower for the best energy savings.
+1
Nothing better than a 3HP pump running at 1000-1200rpm, pumping over 20GPM, and consuming only 100W.

Switching from a 1HP/1.5HP SS (old WhisperFlo) to a 3HP (3.85THP) VS (IntelliFlo), I went from running it 6 hours a day to 24 hours a day, from pumping only ~14,000 gallons per day to pumping almost ~30,000 gallons per day, and from paying about $80-$100 a month to paying only ~$13 a month in electricity.
The pump will have paid for itself in less than 2 years.

My pool is cleaner than ever before and skims continuously throughout the day, all but eliminating surface debris.

It’s just a win-win-win all around.
 
As far as the SWCG size - usually bigger is better, as you can run it at a lower setting and get much longer life out of the element (and save some power there, too). Others with more experience can comment, but an RJ-60 might be a bit too big, only in that you might run into issues not being able to set it as low as you need (it only increments in 5% power settings). On my 23K pool I have to vary between 25 and 30% power to keep if from creeping up/down in CL over time. So I would guess that the 45 would be best for your 10K pool.

Looks like you have 1 1/2 plumbing - solicit comments about whether that will have any detriment when using the higher hp pump....I'd guess it will not be as efficient, and not have other issues, but me not being an expert, it should be asked....
 
There are several sellers of that pump, look at this article:

I have had good performance from an rj60 plus. I had a problem with the controller and Circupool was aware of it and had a fix for it. They sent me the part under warranty.

As far as piping size, my pool was built with 1 1/2 plumbing and I have had no problems after adding a 2.7 hp pump
 
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Thanks All, I went with the RJ45+ SWG. The Pump and SWG should be here this week.

I've read quite a few threads on install. Seems i should put in a check valve and heater bypass as well. Anything wrong with installing it like this pic or tips on better ideas?
 

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Rob,

No you do not... You only need a check valve if you have a Tab feeder, often called a "chlorinator" Not at all the same as a SWCG.

Thanks,

Jim R.
Confused. I didnt know check valve was to keep chlorine out. (Funny prior owner had tab feeder but no bypass/check valve.) I thouoght the check valve was to keep the water flow from going back into the heater out pipe when bypass is on. If no check valve like shown on this page, how does water not flow back into the heater during bypass ? Heater Bypass - Further Reading
 

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