Need help to start newly filled retiled old pool

[minidolphin]

Hi, we moved in to a new house that came with 30 y.o pool. We are reaching out to anyone here for advice. what to do after retiling, regrouting with epoxy grout and refilling the pool. We don't know anything about the pump and salt water chlorine converter device but they look newish, we have never use it. I assumed it is a salt water pool. It's a concrete swimming pool with marblesheen/ marblelcrete lining behind old tiles finish which we retiled. It is a 12,000 gallon pool.

Do we run the pump first, backwash, do we need to check the SWG, and what to check? And when do we put chemical and the order of the rest of chemicals to balance the pool.
These are the test result: done by the pool shop this morning:
FC 0.26, pH 7.3, TA 56, CH (total hardness?) 99,, CYA 0, Salt 147 ppm. Temperature 71.6F. Phospates 0, Copper 0.1
We also try to put the datas on TFP PoolMath. Appreciate all the advice. Thankyou.

 

[Bperry]

Hi, we moved in to a new house that came with 30 y.o pool. We are reaching out to anyone here for advice. what to do after retiling, regrouting with epoxy grout and refilling the pool. We don't know anything about the pump and salt water chlorine converter device but they look newish, we have never use it. I assumed it is a salt water pool. It's a concrete swimming pool with marblesheen/ marblelcrete lining behind old tiles finish which we retiled. It is a 12,000 gallon pool.

Do we run the pump first, backwash, do we need to check the SWG, and what to check? And when do we put chemical and the order of the rest of chemicals to balance the pool.
These are the test result: done by the pool shop this morning:
FC 0.26, pH 7.3, TA 56, CH (total hardness?) 99,, CYA 0, Salt 147 ppm. Temperature 71.6F. Phospates 0, Copper 0.1
We also try to put the datas on TFP PoolMath. Appreciate all the advice. Thankyou.
View attachment 559049

Welcome!

Since it’s a fresh fill you’ll need to increase the CYA to about 30ppm and add 5ppm of liquid chlorine each day until you get your own test kit. TFP recommends one in Australia from clear choice labs, since the pool shop testing isn’t reliable. Here’s a link to the kit.

Pool Test Kits - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[ajw22]

Just Filled Your Pool with Water? Here's What To Do Next - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Recommended Pool Chemicals

Which should I buy? TFP's recommended pool chemicals are cheap, easy, and won't unbalance your pool water.

www.troublefreepool.com

What Are My Ideal Pool Levels?

Use our tool to find ideal chemical levels for any swimming pool. Check TFP recommended levels on pH, free chlorine, cyanuric acid, and more.

www.troublefreepool.com

How long to wait between adding pool chemicals

The wait times between adding pool chemicals is usually around 10 minutes each, as that is also sufficient time for the chemicals to mix in the water.

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PoolMath

Pool Care Basics Archives

Your one-stop shop for all things TFP to include: ABCs of Water Chemistry, Recommended Chemicals/Levels, Test Kits, Troubleshooting, and much more!

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[minidolphin]

Welcome!

Since it’s a fresh fill you’ll need to increase the CYA to about 30ppm and add 5ppm of liquid chlorine each day until you get your own test kit. TFP recommends one in Australia from clear choice labs, since the pool shop testing isn’t reliable. Here’s a link to the kit.

Pool Test Kits - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Thank you Bperry, we'll do that today. Taylor testing kit will arrive in 2 weeks. Yesterday we added 4kg 'Hy-CLOR' Alkalinity iincreaser & the punp hasn't been turned on yet till now, but will turn it on this morning (and unplug SWG), hope we didn't mess up too much!

 

[Bperry]

Thank you Bperry, we'll do that today. Taylor testing kit will arrive in 2 weeks. Yesterday we added 4kg 'Hy-CLOR' Alkalinity iincreaser & the punp hasn't been turned on yet till now, but will turn it on this morning (and unplug SWG), hope we didn't mess up too much!

You likely didn’t need the alkalinity increased as it was fine at 56 (if the pool store test was accurate). Most of the stores out here report adjusted alkalinity as “alkalinity” which makes it seem lower than it actually is. Read through the above noted articles to get an idea of what TFP recommends and why.

 

[ajw22]

You should not add chemicals when your pump is not running. Always run your pump when adding chemicals and for some time after depending on the chemical.

There was no need to increase alkalinity.

 

[minidolphin]

You likely didn’t need the alkalinity increased as it was fine at 56 (if the pool store test was accurate). Most of the stores out here report adjusted alkalinity as “alkalinity” which makes it seem lower than it actually is. Read through the above noted articles to get an idea of what TFP recommends and why.

Thanks Bperry, after reading those articles that were posted by ajw22, I realized I shouldn't have increased the alkalinity. I have grasped the concept by now. Before that I was relying on random information online then became confused and panic. The pump started running this morning. My husband put 1kg CYA yesterday & 3L Chlorine (before I finished all the readings). Our (temporary) strip test today showed FC 1-2, pH 7.8, CYA 100, TA 120. We don't know how accurate this tests are, but will go to pool shop tommorow to compare the test (while waiting for our test kit to arrive). For tomorrow we plan to drop another 10L of Chlorine and 140 kg of salt, then start SWG the day after. Lastly we'll drop the Calcium Hardness increaser.

 

[minidolphin]

You should not add chemicals when your pump is not running. Always run your pump when adding chemicals and for some time after depending on the chemical.

There was no need to increase alkalinity.

Hi ajw22, just realized those articles was actually your response to my post. Thank you so much as it helped alot (was blind, but now can see ). Yes, agreed with you about alkalinity and the pump. Pump is running now, however hubbie couldn't find the pressure gauge attached to the pump/filter (I am away from home & did not pay attention on it). Is it possbile that some of this equipment does not have a pressure gauge?

 

[ajw22]

I suggest you slow down and not drop in chemicals that you are not sure you need.

How did your CYA get to be 100? That is already too high if accurate.

Until you get your CCL test kit to give you accurate tests the only chemical you should be adding is chlorine. Everything else is fine for a few weeks while you get your test kit and adjust your chemistry in a more planned way.

Pump is running now, however hubbie couldn't find the pressure gauge attached to the pump/filter (I am away from home & did not pay attention on it). Is it possbile that some of this equipment does not have a pressure gauge?

I am not familiar with the equipment you may have in AUS. Post pics of your equipment pad.

@mgtfp @aussieta @AUSpool may be of help with your local environment.

 

[Bperry]

Thanks Bperry, after reading those articles that were posted by ajw22, I realized I shouldn't have increased the alkalinity. I have grasped the concept by now. Before that I was relying on random information online then became confused and panic. The pump started running this morning. My husband put 1kg CYA yesterday & 3L Chlorine (before I finished all the readings). Our (temporary) strip test today showed FC 1-2, pH 7.8, CYA 100, TA 120. We don't know how accurate this tests are, but will go to pool shop tommorow to compare the test (while waiting for our test kit to arrive). For tomorrow we plan to drop another 10L of Chlorine and 140 kg of salt, then start SWG the day after. Lastly we'll drop the Calcium Hardness increaser.

The test strips are not at all accurate. You can dispose of them and don’t buy them again.

 

[minidolphin]

The test strips are not at all accurate. You can dispose of them and don’t buy them again.

...okk

 

[mgtfp]

Welcome, @minidolphin!

All the basics seem to be covered, not much to add for now.

Once you have your kit we can get started. Until then, keep adding about 5ppm worth of liquid chlorine per day.

Where in Australia are you? More towards moderate or tropical climate? Water temperature makes me think more Melbourne and less Brisbane...

Don't take the recommended levels too literal, thinking you need to be at ideal level for everything, we'll talk you through that. The 80ppm CYA recommendation for SWGs for example is intended for summer, no point getting up there for the end of the season.

 

[Divin Dave]

however hubbie couldn't find the pressure gauge attached to the pump/filter

Hi, the pressure gauge will be on the very top of the filter. OR, if you have a multi-port valve at the very top, the gauge will probably be on the side of the valve.. I have never seen a filter that didn't have one and can't imagine a filter that doesn't. Here is what a pressure gauge looks like.

 

[minidolphin]

Thanks Dave, We thought so too and that's what we're looking for but this is what we have (see image attached). We couldn't locate the pressure gauge on this not so od equipment

 

[mgtfp]

Probably broke and the old owner's solution was to just remove it.

Should be easy to replace, pool shop or online. I think even Bunnings stocks them.

 

[AUSpool]

Geday minidolphin, welcome to the forums.

I have the Taylor K2006c, it’s a good kit. From MrPoolman I guess. A battery operated magnetic stirrer will be best friend, CCL sell them or ebay.

Going back to your results on the Old PoolMath page, (I use that all the time) you can change the input units to metric which may make everything a little easier to feel with when adjusting levels.

I have the V25 chlorinator, they are a good unit. But keep an eye on it as nothing lasts forever.

A new plaster surface will tend to drive the pH up so keep an eye on your pH.

Try not to compare pool store test results with yours, it will just cause angst.

The hole just above the sticker where a gauge goes has been plugged. New gauges are pretty easy to get. Make sure you have some plumbers tape on hand just in case there’s been some dodgy work done there.

 

[minidolphin]

Probably broke and the old owner's solution was to just remove it.

Should be easy to replace, pool shop or online. I think even Bunnings stocks them.

Thanks mgtfp

 

[minidolphin]

Geday minidolphin, welcome to the forums.

I have the Taylor K2006c, it’s a good kit. From MrPoolman I guess. A battery operated magnetic stirrer will be best friend, CCL sell them or ebay. Is this the one you had? (refer to attached the image). Can you please explain why stirring liquid manually with long stick stirrers an issue when testing?

Going back to your results on the Old PoolMath page, (I use that all the time) you can change the input units to metric which may make everything a little easier to feel with when adjusting levels. Yea, I started to get a hong of it
I have the V25 chlorinator, they are a good unit. But keep an eye on it as nothing lasts forever. Thanks for the tip

A new plaster surface will tend to drive the pH up so keep an eye on your pH. Whilst waiting for Taylor test kit, We've been using strip test, it shows pH 8 consistenly, should I reduce it using acid powder to 7.6-.8? But I don't know if the strip test is reliable, but it has been showing consistent numbers (colors)

Try not to compare pool store test results with yours, it will just cause angst. Thanks, that's true. Since we're waiting for Taylor test kit to arrive, we are relying on some temporary tests to balance the chemical during this period. We haven't add any Calcium hardness increaser (CH 0),. Will that be alrigh if we leave it as it is for another week?

The hole just above the sticker where a gauge goes has been plugged. New gauges are pretty easy to get. Make sure you have some plumbers tape on hand just in case there’s been some dodgy work done there. Thanks again, we'll install it ourself. Which type of pressure gauge we need to buy for this one (any particular specification)?

G'day AUSpool! Thanks for your response

 

[minidolphin]

G'day AUSpool! Thanks for your response

 

[AUSpool]

Yes, that’s the one. It will make testing easier and more reliable, worth every cent.

Testing wise the tests have a high and low res with a corresponding sample size. Not everything needs to be super accurate and you can save time and reagent by using the low res. Free chlorine, FC, calcium hardness, CH, low res, 10ml sample. Total alkalinity, TA, high res, 25ml sample. There’s a couple of things you can do for the pH and CyA test to.

Going back to the Viron V25, if you don’t have the manual get it off the Astral web site. The newer versions have Bluetooth and can be controlled via their app. I find it easier to adjust the timer and out put via the app.