Need help reading test

[KoolPoolDaDDy]

Your pH is too high. Please DON"T use the test strips.........that only adds confusion.

Add enough muriatic acid to your pool to bring it down from 8.0 to 7.5 or thereabouts (about 24 oz).....pump running. Test 30 minutes later and repeat as often as necessary until your pH gets down. It will.

Your starting point was simply way above 8.2 but keep adding the acid and you will have success.

Got it on the test strips. That was just a request from the group. I'm aligned to keep repeating as much as possible to get my balance right. I've never failed at a DIY project and I'm not going to start now.

 

[jesse-99]

I keep these chemicals handy:

1. Liquid Chlorine (even though I have SWGs, I keep some LC around just in case)
2. Muriatic Acid (I keep 4-8 gallons of this handy, because like you, TONS of water features)
3. CYA (I keep 4-8 pounds of this handy, just in case I need to bump CYA, which is very rarely)
4. Calcium Chloride (I keep 20 pounds or so around, just in case I need to bump CH, which is very rarely)

I -never- have to keep chemicals that raise pH or raise TA, like baking soda of soda ash, because mine constantly go higher on their on (aeration, and my fill water TA is 300+).

You will eventually learn on your own what chemicals you need to keep handy based on YOUR pool and your pool's inherent chemistry. After awhile, you will see patterns, again and again and again. Just like I do with needing 2-3 gallons of MA -each week- to keep my pH in check (TA around 70-100) because of my water features.

We can discuss other things that you might help to have around, like the proper cleaning tools for your filter (you need a Filter Flosser from Amazon, OMG it's the best thing I ever bought to help me clean my two cartridge filters), and nets, and a good, right sized, telescopic pole (Dang is it a zillion times better (IMHO) than the CHEAPIE poles --- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B1FB4K5C?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1) . etc.

 

[gingrbredman]

Side note: any chemicals I should keep readily available as a new pool owner?

I keep Muriatic acid and CYA granules on hand. They can be stored together and do not go bad. I have a slide and bubblers, so do have to adjust my PH (not as much as you it seems), and the CYA granules I can pick up at the end of the season on sale usually, and do tweak my CYA during the year ever so slightly if needed. I have a SWCG so I do not need to keep liquid chlorine on hand, but even with the cell, there are times I will add it during the year. It is only for a quick boost, and rarely used, and since liquid chlorine can degrade in time, I just pick up a gallon when I need it and avoid storing it.

I saw something called clorox pool clarifier "for insanely clear pools" to help the underwater cloudiness or is that the high PH?

First, almost anything for your pool with the name "Clorox" is going to be bad for the pool. These products usually contain chemicals you do not want or need in the pool. Copper for one is usually in the ingredients and should be avoided. Their bleach has additives, so no go there. I do use the Clorox brand CYA which I mentioned I pick up at the end of the season usually. That is 100% CYA and the only Clorox brand product I know of that I would put into my pool.

Secondly, clarifiers are not needed, and can create more problems that they solve. They can mess up your filter, and have chemicals in there you do not need or want. The only chemicals you would need right now for a trouble free pool are chlorine (only needed for a boost since you have a SWCG), muriatic acid, and CYA (CH for plaster pools if adjustments are needed). The CYA/chlorine in balance sanitizes your pool and keeps the algae out which creates a clear pool. The muriatic acid lowers the PH. Clarifiers are one of those "magic potions" that are sold when other pool owners can't get their pools in the right balance and reach for some kind of miracle fix. They are marketed just like you mention, but are never needed because a perfectly balanced TFP is already insanely clear!

 

[gingrbredman]

you need a Filter Flosser from Amazon, OMG it's the best thing I ever bought to help me clean my two cartridge filters

Never thought I needed one of these until I saw my neighbor with one. I picked one up and its fantastic!

 

[gingrbredman]

Got it on the test strips. That was just a request from the group.

One of the things a lot of newcomers will do, or are tempted to do, is try and validate their own testing with another set of results. Whether it be test strips, or a pool store. The new testers may not be confident in their testing so they need to be sure of their results, so they need to compare their tests with something else that has to be doing it better than them. The problem really is the other testing just can not be trusted. A good test kit, with properly performed tests should always be trusted over those other options. Why compare your results with the dumbest kid in the class? You are comparing your trusted results with another set that could be close, but probably incorrect, so what do you do with that validation, or differences? Just stick with the trusted test kit, make sure you are doing them properly, and make adjustments from that data.

One other tool I have, which may be beneficial to you is a digital PH tester. Not the most recommended tool here because of the need to calibrate, store, etc., but the one I have has proven invaluable to me in my PH testing. Each time I have compared my PH tester to the Taylor test, they have been right there. Different that comparing to a pool store or tests, because I am testing my meter against my trusted test kit. But with a high PH like you have, knowing the real number may be helpful to get the PH under control and keep it there.

A few members here who rely on digital testers use this one...

https://www.amazon.com/Apera-Instruments-AI311-Replaceable-2-00-16-00/dp/B01ENFOIQE/ref=sr_1_10?crid=2EW3XBWARVQDO&keywords=ph+meter&qid=1663082561&sprefix=ph+meter%2Caps%2C74&sr=8-10

 

[KoolPoolDaDDy]

I keep these chemicals handy:

1. Liquid Chlorine (even though I have SWGs, I keep some LC around just in case)
2. Muriatic Acid (I keep 4-8 gallons of this handy, because like you, TONS of water features)
3. CYA (I keep 4-8 pounds of this handy, just in case I need to bump CYA, which is very rarely)
4. Calcium Chloride (I keep 20 pounds or so around, just in case I need to bump CH, which is very rarely)

I -never- have to keep chemicals that raise pH or raise TA, like baking soda of soda ash, because mine constantly go higher on their on (aeration, and my fill water TA is 300+).

You will eventually learn on your own what chemicals you need to keep handy based on YOUR pool and your pool's inherent chemistry. After awhile, you will see patterns, again and again and again. Just like I do with needing 2-3 gallons of MA -each week- to keep my pH in check (TA around 70-100) because of my water features.

We can discuss other things that you might help to have around, like the proper cleaning tools for your filter (you need a Filter Flosser from Amazon, OMG it's the best thing I ever bought to help me clean my two cartridge filters), and nets, and a good, right sized, telescopic pole (Dang is it a zillion times better (IMHO) than the CHEAPIE poles --- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B1FB4K5C?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1) .

I keep these chemicals handy:

1. Liquid Chlorine (even though I have SWGs, I keep some LC around just in case)
2. Muriatic Acid (I keep 4-8 gallons of this handy, because like you, TONS of water features)
3. CYA (I keep 4-8 pounds of this handy, just in case I need to bump CYA, which is very rarely)
4. Calcium Chloride (I keep 20 pounds or so around, just in case I need to bump CH, which is very rarely)

I -never- have to keep chemicals that raise pH or raise TA, like baking soda of soda ash, because mine constantly go higher on their on (aeration, and my fill water TA is 300+).

You will eventually learn on your own what chemicals you need to keep handy based on YOUR pool and your pool's inherent chemistry. After awhile, you will see patterns, again and again and again. Just like I do with needing 2-3 gallons of MA -each week- to keep my pH in check (TA around 70-100) because of my water features.

We can discuss other things that you might help to have around, like the proper cleaning tools for your filter (you need a Filter Flosser from Amazon, OMG it's the best thing I ever bought to help me clean my two cartridge filters), and nets, and a good, right sized, telescopic pole (Dang is it a zillion times better (IMHO) than the CHEAPIE poles --- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B1FB4K5C?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1) . etc.

Thanks brother. I actually already have the filter flosser lol. Also have a great pole. The one the PB gave me was a joke. What vacuum do you use?

 

[KoolPoolDaDDy]

One of the things a lot of newcomers will do, or are tempted to do, is try and validate their own testing with another set of results. Whether it be test strips, or a pool store. The new testers may not be confident in their testing so they need to be sure of their results, so they need to compare their tests with something else that has to be doing it better than them. The problem really is the other testing just can not be trusted. A good test kit, with properly performed tests should always be trusted over those other options. Why compare your results with the dumbest kid in the class? You are comparing your trusted results with another set that could be close, but probably incorrect, so what do you do with that validation, or differences? Just stick with the trusted test kit, make sure you are doing them properly, and make adjustments from that data.

One other tool I have, which may be beneficial to you is a digital PH tester. Not the most recommended tool here because of the need to calibrate, store, etc., but the one I have has proven invaluable to me in my PH testing. Each time I have compared my PH tester to the Taylor test, they have been right there. Different that comparing to a pool store or tests, because I am testing my meter against my trusted test kit. But with a high PH like you have, knowing the real number may be helpful to get the PH under control and keep it there.

A few members here who rely on digital testers use this one...

https://www.amazon.com/Apera-Instruments-AI311-Replaceable-2-00-16-00/dp/B01ENFOIQE/ref=sr_1_10?crid=2EW3XBWARVQDO&keywords=ph+meter&qid=1663082561&sprefix=ph+meter%2Caps%2C74&sr=8-10

Great points and I appreciate the feedback. I already have a PH tester that I've been using but didn't mention because like you said it's frowned on here. I have the cheap yellow that I purchased with my test kit. I will definitely look at getting a more reliable meter because I think PH is gonna be my primary battle.

 

[jesse-99]

@KoolPoolDaDDy
I have 2 pool vacuum/cleaners

WaterTech Pool Blaster Pro 1500 (I would not get this one again, and instead get the cheaper 900 model)
WaterTech Pool Blaster Max CG (love the CG model, this I use this on my smaller basins/spa)

I also just bought a cordless WaterTech CX-1 Robotic Cleaner too (needed cordless because a corded one will get tangled up on the barstools built into my pool and get itself stuck) --- This just arrived *today* and its on the charger right now so I haven't even used it yet. Hope to make a post on how well it works within the next week or so. I'm just trying to get things that minimize MY time doing things with the pool, it can otherwise be a huge time-suck so I'm working at minimizing that as best I can... hence trying the new cordless robotic cleaner too.

Yeah my original telescopic poles both sucked. I bought the cheap amazon ones and they didn't last and they locking/gear mechanism sucked too whenever extending it, etc. Sometimes you get what you pay for.

 

[gingrbredman]

I already have a PH tester that I've been using but didn't mention because like you said it's frowned on here

I wouldn't say it is frowned upon, it is just not the go to test that everyone is used to like the Taylor or TFT kits with the reagents. TFP Kits sells a PH meter as well, not quite the Aphera level, but a solid one from reports of those who have used it. I just feel the Aphera, when calibrated and stored properly, is a better tool for me. But TFTestkits puts a lot of research and time into the products they sell, so if they have it on their shelves, I wouldn't discount it right away. A lot of the experts here use and trust the reagent tests, and know how PH will react from the results, so sometimes a PH meter can be seen as not as scientifically true, but for daily checks and maintenance of the pool, I only use my digital PH tester. If the unit was wildly out of whack, I would tell from my pool, but that takes time to get to know it. I still use the reagent test every couple of weeks, and check my digital meter to know I'm still getting good results.

I will definitely look at getting a more reliable meter because I think PH is gonna be my primary battle.

A digital tester for PH isn't a bad tool to have in the tool box, but always be aware of the storage and calibration, and do keep up on the reagent test. These tests in the Taylor or TFTrestkits are THE way to know what is going on, but a little digital help along the way doesn't hurt.

 

[Britali]

Have you tried doing the acid demand test after you do your pH test to get an idea of how far you are over?

 

[jesse-99]

Funny side story about MA and pool maintenance companies... I've been told my numerous sources, that with the previous owner of my house and the pool company he was using for pool services, that they would come in from time to time (at pool opening and other times during the season) and literally pour in 5 gallon drums of MA into the pool. The same pool maintenance company would also provide invoices for "services" on days he wasn't home and literally didn't do anything except put the invoice in the mailbox, claiming they did services. Crazy stories I've heard. Again, can't prove it myself (and that pool maintenance company hasn't serviced this pool for over 3 years now) but heard from numerous other people this was what was happening.

Anyways, back on topic!

 

[pb4uswim]

So . . . How’s it going? Is the PH in the 7’s? If so, time to post a complete set of test results.

 

[KoolPoolDaDDy]

So . . . How’s it going? Is the PH in the 7’s? If so, time to post a complete set of test results.

Yep I'm currently at 7.6 FINALLY. Again thanks a million. Haven't been posting as I'm trying to finish up all my landscaping for final inspection.been super hectic.

 

[KoolPoolDaDDy]

Yep I'm currently at 7.6 FINALLY. Again thanks a million. Haven't been posting as I'm trying to finish up all my landscaping for final inspection.been super hectic.

Got to love it. Back at 8.7 PH this morning and TA dropped from 70 to 30 FML. We did swim and use the heater all night and this morning. Not sure what went wrong but this is getting tiresome...

 

[mknauss]

Chemically not possible.

Check your testing methods.

 

[jesse-99]

Yeah something really seems off about that. TA isn't going to go from 70 to 30 without a TON of MA being added since the 70 test result. and pH should be pretty slow to rise if your TA is <70 and your water features are off, likely days, and certianly not up to 8.7?

 

[KoolPoolDaDDy]

Chemically not possible.

Check your testing methods.

Oh boy...well I'm definitely doing something incorrect because I added MA and got the PH back to 7.6 and the TA was still turning red after 3 drops so I just added a bunch of baking soda. Just when I thought I was getting the hang of this.

 

[jesse-99]

Are you logging your test results AND how much chemical/MA you are adding each time? If so, post up the last 3 or 4 testing results and how much of what you added?

For example, something like..
9/16 pH: 8.2+
9/16 TA: 70
Added xx amount of MA

9/17 pH: 8.0
9/77 TA: 60
Added xx amount of MA

9/16 pH: 7.6
9/16 TA: 30
Added xx amount of MA

If you log things that way, it's easier for us to understand what's going on as well.... but your TA just shouldn't go to 30 right from 70, not without getting your pH super low with a ton of MA. If your pH stayed up, then TA -can't- come down. So something is off.

 

[KoolPoolDaDDy]

Are you logging your test results AND how much chemical/MA you are adding each time? If so, post up the last 3 or 4 testing results and how much of what you added?

For example, something like..
9/16 pH: 8.2+
9/16 TA: 70
Added xx amount of MA

9/17 pH: 8.0
9/77 TA: 60
Added xx amount of MA

9/16 pH: 7.6
9/16 TA: 30
Added xx amount of MA

If you log things that way, it's easier for us to understand what's going on as well.... but your TA just shouldn't go to 30 right from 70, not without getting your pH super low with a ton of MA. If your pH stayed up, then TA -can't- come down. So something is off.

I don't really log what chemicals I add but I will moving forward. What I can tell you is I've only been adding MA to get the PH down. Friday everything was looking pretty decent. yesterday we swam all day and i ran the heater for the first time and also the water features. Tested my FC and PH this morning and that's when I noticed the PH shot up and so I checked everything else and that's when I initially got the 30 TA but I just added .5 gallon of MA and the PH went back down to 7.6 but the TA still tested at 30. So I added about 7 lbs of Baking soda even though the app was call for 11 pounds.

 

[jesse-99]

Something doesn't add up... with an 18000 gallon pool and your pH at 8.7 (how did you measure it to 8.7? Since the Taylor kit only goes to 8.0 and the TFP kit only goes to 8.2?) this is how much MA you would need to add to bring pH down to 7.6 at either of these TA levels.

If your TA is 70, then 3.5 cups should get you down to a pH of 7.6 (from 8.7)
If your TA is 30, then only 2 cups should get you down to a pH of 7.6 (from 8.7)

If you added .5 gallons, that's 16 cups. So something doesn't add up right.

For now, log the date/time of your results, and log what you ADDED in for chemicals as well. (at least until you get this figured out) --- it will help all of us understand better what is going on.

Note: your TA should ONLY be going down if your pH is dropping below 7.2. (someone correct me if I'm wrong about this please!)