Need help new heater and valve config

[Kjhoffman]

This is not a question on my pool, but rather for my neighbor who just had new pool installed. Without all the lengthy boring details I'll say she had some issues with installer. Took 15 months from first payment to completion. Installer extremely unresponsive. Over 1 year from hole in ground to completion. Now that the pool is "running" the service department will not respond to her. So while she waits, I offered to take a quick look to see if something simple. Here is the issue:
Pool heater will not run. It starts, gets loud pinging within 10 seconds, shuts off and then repeats this cycle. She has new pentair heater, and intelliflo vs pump. I looked at pump speed and it is set to max, so at some point will offer to lower the speed for her. So back to the heater issue. I believe the heater is not getting enough water flow. Could be the filter needs cleaning, but I see significant water returning from her spa/spillway. So when I look at the plumbing, I wonder if the "bypass" valve is installed wrong. I dont see how you can set the valve to route 100% flow to heater. It is likely just me but thought Id reach out to the TFP experts to educate me once more. Here is a picture of the plumbing in question:

 

[proavia]

Based on the heater bypass valve setting in your picture, the heater and the bypass have equal oppotunity for water flow. Since water will take the path of least resistance, most of the water is bypassing the heater because the heater restricts the flow more than bypassing the heater.

To correct this, you will have to realign the valve. If the lid has the word "INLET" on it, it should be aligned to the side of the valve closest to the filter. This will allow adjustment from fully bypassing the heater to allowing full flow to the heater. Do NOT cut any stop tabs off of the lid or the handle. Most likely, the lid itself needs to be rotated 90 degrees clockwise.

 

[Kjhoffman]

thank you, i suspected the same, but questioned my sanity vs the install of the pool company experts. I guess mistakes are only human. My neighbor has gone thru nightmare with this build, and now she needs to wait for service which based on history could take weeks. So I'll change the valve accordingly.

 

[Kjhoffman]

so now to determine "inlet" position. I dont see it on valve lid. Can you tell from this pic ?

 

[Jimrahbe]

Kj,

You want the handle of the current valve to be pointed down in your pic. 180 degrees from where is it now.

The "Off" tab needs to point to the salt cell.

This will forces all the water to go through the heater.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[Kjhoffman]

thanks Jim. The handle will not move that way, so is it as simple as removing the screws, and turning the lid/handle 180 degrees ? the valve housing is fine as is ?

 

[Jimrahbe]

Kj,

Yes.. the key is that you want the top set so that is is impossible to shut off the water coming from the filter. This is because you don't want to dead-head the pump by not having some place for the water to go. This is what Gene meant when he was talking about the "inlet".

You just need to make sure the word "off" can never be pointed toward the pipe with the temp probe (coming from the heater).

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[proavia]

On that particular lid, "INLET" is the side pointed toward the salt cell in your pic. Carefully remove the screws and lid, rotate 90 degrees clockwise and carefully reinstall id and screws. Do NOT use any power tools to help prevent cracking the valve housing.

 

[Kjhoffman]

thanks all...unfortunately I turned the lid 180 degrees before seeing last post. So I guess I need to redo and turn -90 degrees ?Is there something definitive I can look at on the lid ? Is it simple enough to say that install itso handle will never allow pump inlet to be in off position ?

 

[Jimrahbe]

Is it simple enough to say that install it so handle will never allow pump inlet to be in off position ?

Yes...

That is exactly what you are trying to do.

Jim R.

 

[Kjhoffman]

done...handle will not allow "off" to pointed towards pump...

thanks all

 

[Jimrahbe]

Kj,

You might want to also make sure the check valve is installed correctly..

With the bypass valve's "OFF" tab pointed at the salt cell, the water should flow through the heater and then through the salt cell. If the check valve is in backwards, the cell will not have a green flow light.

thanks,

Jim R.

 

[Kjhoffman]

thanks Jim. I'll have to go back to her house and check that. I believe all is well because now I see water in the check valve where as before I didnt. The heater is working fine now so I guess that was the issue and changing the valve position did the trick. I noticed some small bubbles in the pool, hopefully just air in the line from when I had it open. I'll give it some time and hopefully it will stop, otherwise I guess I'll need to reopen to see if o-ring issue but I was pretty careful when I removed the valve paddle. Only other issue is seems like the spillover from spa is not very heavy considering the pump is running at 3100rpm. I'll check the filter cartridge as it is a new pool maybe some junk in there. She also thinks it may be leaking since she adds water every week, but could be evaporation due to the dry florida winter. This was a nightmare install for her, hopefully she can enjoy the pool now.

 

[jsygrls]

Good job KJ, your a good neighbor and that's makes us all stronger. And the TFP experts ROCK!

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