Need advice on opening pool

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Janet51

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May 28, 2020
11
pa
Chlorine - 7.5 ppm
CC- 12.5
calcium - 300 ppm
alkalinity - 100
Cya- 0
ph - 6.8
Just need info on what I should add to get my water right still in the opening stage, so some things I dont know is what is a dry stabilizer for the cya
 
OK - with TA around 100, you should be able to get the pH up by aerating it. That basically means getting the water surface broken with whatever you can - some people turn up the jets, some people run a small sprinkler on the pool, something like that to get the pH to rise. See this link for that:

Aeration - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

pH of 6.8 is low and you want it up in the 7's.

You will want to add 30ppm of CYA as well. It's also called "stabilizer" or "conditioner". You can get it in granular or liquid form, but the liquid form is pretty expensive. The granular form is much more reasonable. Here's an article on CYA - go down to section 8 and it will talk about liquid vs solid and how to best add it to your pool. Use the sock method - don't just dump it in the skimmer like the packaging usually says to do. You can usually get this at most big box stores (Walmart, Home Depot, Lowe's) in with their pool supplies.

CYA - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

Your FC is good for 30ppm of CYA. You do want to get CYA into the pool because without it the 7.5ppm will burn up quickly in the sun and without the CYA to buffer it, you could get some liner bleaching or other issues from the high level of FC / CYA ratio.

How does the water look? Is it really super clear, or is there any visibile algae or cloudiness?
 
Oh! I didn't realize your pool was green. In that case, get the CYA in, aerate the water up to at least 7.0 (if not 7.2) and start the SLAM Process. Read that link and it will have instructions on how to SLAM. Basically you add enough FC to get up to the SLAM level (which should be 30 after you add the CYA you need to get to 30) and brush/vacuum as often as you can. Test at least 3-4 times a day, up to every 30 minutes, and add more FC to get to the SLAM level. Once the water is completely clear, you do the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to verify nothing left is growing and then you are clear.

If you test and add new FC often, your pool will go from green to cloudy blue pretty quick. Then comes the hard part - waiting for the cloudiness to clear. Sand filters can take a while to clear up, but you want to stick with the SLAM until the water is so clear you could see heads/tails on a coin on the bottom of the pool. :)
 
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Now I have shock that says 1 bag for every 13,800 gallons is it going to hurt if I put 2 bags in a day let pump run then next day swwep and backwash, Slam again and let the pump run all day. Then repeat til clear ?
 
FC is free chlorine, measured in parts-per-million. It can be added via several ways. Liquid chlorine, powder, granules, tablets, saltwater generator. All add something to the pool with the chlorine. What is in the shock you want to add? It should have an ingredients list.
 
My reading for today after putting shock in last night are

FC- 3
CC - 13
TC- 16
CALICIUM HARDNESS - 200PPM
T/A -130
CYA- 0
ok now according to pool math I need to lower my PH with an acid reducer, can you please explain what I need to purchase to get this in the right area.
 

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Janet - Let's take a step back. The process you need to follow to clear your pool and insure that it will stay clear is the SLAM Process Dustin mentioned above. Are you planning to follow that procedure? The reason I ask is that your follow-up actions/questions seem to be heading another direction. I might have misinterpreted your post #7, but all you need to do is follow all steps of the SLAM process until you pass the 3 required tests listed in it. This will take some time and POP (pool owner patience).

What is your pH now? You said it was too high. Did it rise just from aeration? You want it at 7.2 because it will rise some from the SLAM and you won't be able to test pH during the SLAM because the FC test is interfered with an FC level of 10 or higher, which yours will be. But you also need to get that 30 ppm of CYA in the water. Have you started that?

pH reducer, if you need it, is Muriatic Acid, available at big box stores. The stronger 31.45% strength is the best value, though just be mindful of the vapors. They will get your attention.
 
Yes I have started the SLAM process, Those test results are what I got this morning after the Slam last night and I am trying to keep within the guidelines of the SLAM process and I am trying to stay within the process, so the questions are in reference to the SLAM process. I wanted to make sure I was in the proper guidelines to have the SLAM process be a success and not a failure. I am totally new to this and am not sure about all the jargon. So that is why all the questions about the Acid so I know that after the water is clear how I keep it in the acceptable range. I will be getting Sanitizer ( which raises my CYA ) today and that is what I need right ?
 
Good to hear on the SLAM process. As I thought, I was misreading so that's good.

You are a little mixed up in the last post. You should be raising your CYA from 0 to 30. Then based on a CYA of 30, per the FC/CYA Levels, your SLAM level for FC is 12. That is where you should be keeping your FC as much as possible until you pass the three tests. You'll do this by testing multiple times per day and dosing back up to that level of 12. Add the CYA per the sock method and assume it's in there. It won't show up well in testing until 24 hours after the last of the CYA is dissolved. CYA - Further Reading
 
Your combination of green water, very high CCs, and 0 CYA is a bit of a red flag to me that you may have ammonia in your water.

Can you do a test for me before you add anymore CYA to your pool? Add enough liquid chlorine to raise your FC to 10, wait 20-30 minutes then test FC/CC again and post back here with the results.
 
aeh0603 said:
Your combination of green water, very high CCs, and 0 CYA is a bit of a red flag to me that you may have ammonia in your water.

Can you do a test for me before you add anymore CYA to your pool? Add enough liquid chlorine to raise your FC to 10, wait 20-30 minutes then test FC/CC again and post back here with the results.
Click to expand...
If there was any FC on the FC test then ammonia isn't an issue. It could have been at one point but if there's FC in the pool at all then the ammonia is neutralized.
 
IceShadow said:
If there was any FC on the FC test then ammonia isn't an issue. It could have been at one point but if there's FC in the pool at all then the ammonia is neutralized.
Click to expand...
Good point, I missed the length of time between tests. Since some FC held overnight, you are correct that ammonia is ruled out (good news!). In that case I agree with what you and others said above already.

I am still curious about the extreme CC though. Did you (@Janet51) add any other chemicals recently or at closing? Metal sequestrants, MPS (non-chlorine shock)? I'm wondering if the CC is real CC or another chemical interfering with the test.
 
Hello all.
I would like some advice on pool steps, I would like to order the conifer heavy duty system but I wondered if anyone had purchased there steps and had any input on the sturdiness of them and if they are difficult to put in and take out of an above ground pool? Or do they stay in the pool. Our winters freeze our pool so not real keen about leaving steps in the pool.
 

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