Hello,
I recently got my Jandy iAqualink PCB repaired by <name deleted> because all my temperature sensors were showing open on my Jandy controller, when the sensors were actually working fine. Bob fixed the PCB and all went back to normal, until just before Christmas when I saw the water in the spa bubbling and I realized the blower was on. I actually found that the board had switched 2 activators and triggered one other relay. I have a non-working spa-side remote but it is disconnected from the PCB. The pool works fine except that on sunny days, around 12pm, the system goes crazy (it stayed normal on a cloudy day). Here is the exact sequence:
- Pump starts normally in the morning
- For no obvious reason, the system starts acting up (relays and actuators activated). On some days, the relay for the blower is being switched on/off repeatedly, and on some days, it stays on [Note: the programming for the solar heat starts later]
- All LED lights on the PCB are off, except "Pool Mode"
- Controller is showing "Solar Heat" and Diagnostic says that all temperature sensors are OK (aka things are normal from the controller side)
- I then switch off the breaker to the PCB and the breaker to the pump. I wait 5 minutes and then I restart both
- When restarted, the pump goes on as programmed and the other relays are not activated
- All LED lights on the PCB are on
- The controller is showing “Heat Pump” instead of "Solar Heat" and the diagnostic is not showing the Solar Sensor at all (it’s not saying “Open” – it just does not show the line)
- I wait until the sun is not shining on the panel. I switch off the breakers, wait 5 minutes, switch the breakers on, and my system starts normally
- Only the "Auto" and "Pump" and "Pool Mode" LED lights are on
- On the controller, "Solar Heat" is back, and the diagnostic shows the Solar Temp sensor.
The next day, the same thing happens again. At Bob's request, I set dip switch #5 to "on", so I will be able to read the solar temp probe temperature when it happens. Curious whether anyone has experienced anything similar. The "All LEDs on" on the PCB is usually a sign of trouble but the troubling thing is that the PCB is OK, then not OK, then OK again.
I recently got my Jandy iAqualink PCB repaired by <name deleted> because all my temperature sensors were showing open on my Jandy controller, when the sensors were actually working fine. Bob fixed the PCB and all went back to normal, until just before Christmas when I saw the water in the spa bubbling and I realized the blower was on. I actually found that the board had switched 2 activators and triggered one other relay. I have a non-working spa-side remote but it is disconnected from the PCB. The pool works fine except that on sunny days, around 12pm, the system goes crazy (it stayed normal on a cloudy day). Here is the exact sequence:
- Pump starts normally in the morning
- For no obvious reason, the system starts acting up (relays and actuators activated). On some days, the relay for the blower is being switched on/off repeatedly, and on some days, it stays on [Note: the programming for the solar heat starts later]
- All LED lights on the PCB are off, except "Pool Mode"
- Controller is showing "Solar Heat" and Diagnostic says that all temperature sensors are OK (aka things are normal from the controller side)
- I then switch off the breaker to the PCB and the breaker to the pump. I wait 5 minutes and then I restart both
- When restarted, the pump goes on as programmed and the other relays are not activated
- All LED lights on the PCB are on
- The controller is showing “Heat Pump” instead of "Solar Heat" and the diagnostic is not showing the Solar Sensor at all (it’s not saying “Open” – it just does not show the line)
- I wait until the sun is not shining on the panel. I switch off the breakers, wait 5 minutes, switch the breakers on, and my system starts normally
- Only the "Auto" and "Pump" and "Pool Mode" LED lights are on
- On the controller, "Solar Heat" is back, and the diagnostic shows the Solar Temp sensor.
The next day, the same thing happens again. At Bob's request, I set dip switch #5 to "on", so I will be able to read the solar temp probe temperature when it happens. Curious whether anyone has experienced anything similar. The "All LEDs on" on the PCB is usually a sign of trouble but the troubling thing is that the PCB is OK, then not OK, then OK again.
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