My FIRST WATER TEST

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oledan

oledan

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Aug 8, 2024
103
Central Indiana
Pool Size
10140
Surface
Fiberglass
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Please tell me what to do to get into TFP levels (you might need to dumb it down for me as in add this much borax or this much LC etc.)
Water temp 84dg
ALK: 100
PH: 7.4
FC: 5
CH: 280
CYA: 45

All testing was done with my Taylor K-2005 (the recommended FC test is on order)
Thanks a bunch and remember, I'm new:)

Dan
 
I added some CH increaser because according to a chart I've seen somewhere on here I'm
still a little low. Should I raise PH to the recommended 7.6-7.8?
Lastly how much Liquid Chlorine do I need to add daily to keep my chlorine levels at the recommended 6-8ppm according to the chart refenced here? 1/2gal or so?

Sorry if I'm overthinking things-I tend to do that.

Dan
 
CH
Without a heater, there is no need for CH in a FG pool.
pH
If pH is in the 7s, leave it alone. There are very few reasons to EVER raise pH with chemicals. It will rise on its own. After it gets above 8, then lower to 7.6. Over time, your TA will come down as you add muriatic acid to lower pH. When TA gets to 80, stop lowering pH to 7.6 and pH should be fairly stable around 7.8 to 8.0, which is just fine.
FC
When your FAS-DPD kit arrives, use it to test FC. Enter your test results in pool math (get it here-->PoolMath), then enter a target FC and PoolMath will tell you how much to add. I would recommend, that you want to be in range of 6-8 WHEN YOU TEST. If you need to raise FC ABOVE range, so that you are in range when you test, do that.
CYA
Always round your CYA up to the next 10. Your CYA is 50.
 
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PoolStored said:
CH
Without a heater, there is no need for CH in a FG pool.
pH
If pH is in the 7s, leave it alone. There are very few reasons to EVER raise pH with chemicals. It will rise on its own. After it gets above 8, then lower to 7.6. Over time, your TA will come down as you add muriatic acid to lower pH. When TA gets to 80, stop lowering pH to 7.6 and pH should be fairly stable around 7.8 to 8.0, which is just fine.
FC
When your FAS-DPD kit arrives, use it to test FC. Enter your test results in pool math (get it here-->PoolMath), then enter a target FC and PoolMath will tell you how much to add. I would recommend, that you want to be in range of 6-8 WHEN YOU TEST. If you need to raise FC ABOVE range, so that you are in range when you test, do that.
CYA
Always round your CYA up to the next 10. Your CYA is 50.
Click to expand...
So because I don't have a pool heater, I don't need to worry about Calcium Hardness at all? Yeah!!!!! One less thing to worry about.
 
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I purchased a case of Doheny brand “Oxidizer”. Advertised as getting rid of any CC to supplement your regular “Shock”. Does this stuff work? I purchased a case of 12-1lb bags prior to learning about TFP
 
So I made what I thought was corrections to my water based on the IDEAL LEVELS page of this forum. The levels are for FG pools.

TA-100 *still outside the ideal range of 60-80.
PH- 7.6
FC- 7
CC- 0
CH-360 *might be 350, started to change color at drop 35 but was a definite color change to blue at drop 36.
CYA- 50 *see below.

I've struggled in the past testing my Cya and being unsure of the results because my eyes were playing tricks on when the dot disappeared. I thought I could still see the dot so would at more solution. Then I read a thread on this forum where an experienced poster advised to fill the vile up to a certain value then look at the dot instead of staring at it continuously which I as doing. This worked like a charm! Thank you to all the experienced forum members who answer all of us new guys questions! It is really paying off and I've learned a ton in my short time here. My wife is proud of her pool boy and the pool looks great which was why I joined this forum-again, thank you!:)

Now on to my questions. The only test result above which is out of TFP ranges is my TA. TFP recommends 60-80 to be in ideal range for fiberglass pools. My question is how to lower my TA to within Ideal range without throwing of my PH which is within TFP ideal Range? Exactly how big of deal is this? The OCD in me wants everything to be within TFP ranges.

I don't think I'm going to test for CH much anymore as I have a fiberglass pool without any tile whatsoever. Maybe just at the opening and closing of the season just to make sure I'm within range. Do you agree with this?

Thank you once again,
Dan
 
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TA of 100 is just fine. Manage your pH and keep it in the 7s and you will be fine. The only implication of TA being above range is that pH will rise faster, nothing else.

Go Swim!
 
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oledan said:
I don't think I'm going to test for CH much anymore as I have a fiberglass pool without any tile whatsoever. Maybe just at the opening and closing of the season just to make sure I'm within range. Do you agree with this?
Click to expand...
Your CH will probably go down. Your fill water is high CH, but you'll have more rain dilution than fill additions.

'In range' for you is 0+. I test it for funsies when I'm bored but it doesn't matter for me either.
 
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So I got my new Chlorine test yesterday and used for the first time this morning. I experiment with it a little and did both the 25ml fill (x.2) and the 10ml fill (x0.5). I added chlorine yesterday after a pool party and added too much as the 25ml fill took 98+ drops of reagent and never did turn totally clear-when it got towards the end I would think it would look clear by holding it out in front of me but as soon look down into the tube was definitely still some pink. So on to the 10ml test.

The 10ml test worked like a charm and only took 22 drops of reagent to be perfectly clear (I like this positive definite reaction as it took all the personal error and guess work out of it). I determined my FC to be 11 and my CC was 0.

I tried the 25ml test because I thought it to be more precise? I much prefer the 10ml test because of the clear/definite reaction I got-is this typical?

And one question about the 10ml test. If I would set the sample down and walk away, even for a brief period, when I returned to it would turn pink again. I would then add one drop, and it would turn perfectly clear again? I summarized this to mean as soon as it turns clear that's your FC level and not to set it down at all to allow any time for it to turn pink again. Is this Correct?

I believe my Taylor test kit is now complete. Thanks for your help,
Dan
 
Use the 10 ml test, it is all the precision you need and will save your regents.

As soon as it goes clear test is over, don't worry that it turns back a little pinkish when set down for a bit. That's normal and not part of the test.

You are well on your way to a TFP Clear pool, keep it up!

Last thing - I (and everyone on this forum) highly recommends getting a speed stir. Makes testing easier and more fun.

tftestkits.net

Taylor SpeedStir

tftestkits.net tftestkits.net
 
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So, just want to make sure I'm understanding the TFP "Lifestyle". Is the reason to maintain the LQ/CYA recommended levels (in my case 6-8 w/cya of 50} is that if these levels are religiously maintained you will have essentially a TroubleFreePool?
Pool will always be clear, you should never have to "shock" your pool, and your pool will always be sanitary? If the answer to my question is yes then count me ALL IN. But if I'm misunderstanding something or anything please let me know.

Thanks,
Dan
 
Yes, it is science and chemistry, not religion, that keeps a pool sanitary with the correct FC to CYA ratio.

www.troublefreepool.com

The Free Chlorine and Cyanuric Acid Relationship

Managing your cyanuric acid and Free Chlorine levels is key to stabilizing your pool. Learn how these two items affect each other.
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

www.troublefreepool.com

Pool Care Basics Archives

Your one-stop shop for all things TFP to include: ABCs of Water Chemistry, Recommended Chemicals/Levels, Test Kits, Troubleshooting, and much more!
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
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Took a Mid-Week water test today. Please let me know if you would make any changes?

Water temp 83dg
TA: 90
PH: 7.2
FC: 8
CC: 0
CYA: 50
CH: Not tested today but in previous test was 360

Pool Math suggests I lower TA and raise PH. Should I?


Dan
 

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