Oh and I bought a thermometer last night and my current water temperature is 92°F. Does the temperature in water affect chemicals balanced?
My first test results n need your thoughts
- Thread starter Jameshtx
- Start date
- May 3, 2014
- 59,009
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I read on here that Taylor test kit will not work for pH if FC is over 10 ppm. From last night’s test my FC is 10.5
What does this mean and Should I worry since liquid chlorine burns 4 ppm per day?
What does this mean and Should I worry since liquid chlorine burns 4 ppm per day?
- May 3, 2014
- 59,009
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
You are correct at the pH test is invalid with a FC greater than 10 ppm.
That is the difficulty of trying to manage a pool with a very high CYA using liquid chlorine to sanitize.
Wait another hour or so and test the FC again as it should be below 10. Then test pH, adjust if necessary, and add LC to raise your FC to target level.
That is the difficulty of trying to manage a pool with a very high CYA using liquid chlorine to sanitize.
Wait another hour or so and test the FC again as it should be below 10. Then test pH, adjust if necessary, and add LC to raise your FC to target level.
It's (my high CYA) from those darn trichlor tablets/pucks. I've already gave myself a warning since I was uneducated @ the time and didn't mean to use them intentionally lol
From what I've read on here, having CYA level of 80 might be okay in my case b/c the sun sets in my backyard so I direct sunlight all throughout the day and evening right before it gets dark. And I live in Houston, Tx where its reeeeeeally hot and humid.
From what I've read on here, having CYA level of 80 might be okay in my case b/c the sun sets in my backyard so I direct sunlight all throughout the day and evening right before it gets dark. And I live in Houston, Tx where its reeeeeeally hot and humid.
- May 3, 2014
- 59,009
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
With a non-SWCG pool that level CYA takes much diligence to manage.
I know Houston can be warm and humid. many places are during the summer.
A more manageable CYA would be 50 ppm. You will probably get there this fall if you get a hurricane or tropical storm through this year.
I know Houston can be warm and humid. many places are during the summer.
A more manageable CYA would be 50 ppm. You will probably get there this fall if you get a hurricane or tropical storm through this year.
Great you just jinx'd us knock on wood lol jk. Definitely don't want a hurricane. Harvey was a disaster. We get lots of rain here so I'm thinking of draining a few inches of water before it does. Does TFPC have a method of draining water? I didn't see a thread on the pool school section about it
- May 3, 2014
- 59,009
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Not a good idea to drain water before a large rain event. Pool shells can pop out of the ground with very wet soils.
To drain water a sub pump from Harbor Freight or Home Depot.
To drain water a sub pump from Harbor Freight or Home Depot.
I see what you mean. I'll be sure to drain with no rain then refill w/ city water. Need to get that CYA down to recommended levels
Is this the right thing to do?
My water level got low so I’m having to fill w the water hose while pump is off. I have an auto fill but dont like to use it bc it filters thru my water softener. I’ll turn the pump when water is up to level. How long after should I test and should I test for the 5 main chemicals or just FC n pH?
My water level got low so I’m having to fill w the water hose while pump is off. I have an auto fill but dont like to use it bc it filters thru my water softener. I’ll turn the pump when water is up to level. How long after should I test and should I test for the 5 main chemicals or just FC n pH?
- May 3, 2014
- 59,009
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
When your CH is near 400 you would be better off using your softened water for make up water in the future. Not for large drain/refills, just for evaporation.
Darn it. Why didn’t I ask before doing it.
Water is up to level and pump is now back on. I need to let it run for at least 30 minutes before testing right?
Water is up to level and pump is now back on. I need to let it run for at least 30 minutes before testing right?
