Left for a work trip with perfect water, came back 5 days later to a frog pond. Turn out a weir door broke and got stuck in the closed position and was blowing air through my system enough to shut off my SWG. Read up on the SLAM process and bought a ton of 10% liquid chlorine. I am waiting on a FAS-DPD kit to arrive, should be here tomorrow but my main question is, should a high FC still show up on an OTO test? Every time I add the SLAM amount it stays clear with maybe a faint tint of yellow. Searching around says that the OTO test will not bleach out like the DPD test and should be a dark yellow of brown. Chlorine from the store is about ~3months old but was all I had available where I live. CYA is a touch high but bought extra chlorine to cover, have been adding fresh water post backwash to lower.
30k vinyl
Taylor K-2005 kit
Oversized sand filter
Values from before SLAM
FC: 0
pH: 7.2
TA:
CH: 250
CYA: 70
Can I really be losing 9 gallons of chlorine every few hours or is my OTO test not valid as a stop gap until the FAS-DPD comes in? After 24 hours pool has gone from green to blue which tells me it is working, have backwashed twice and now working on a vacuum session. Water is cloudy but expect that to improve over time.
30k vinyl
Taylor K-2005 kit
Oversized sand filter
Values from before SLAM
FC: 0
pH: 7.2
TA:
CH: 250
CYA: 70
Can I really be losing 9 gallons of chlorine every few hours or is my OTO test not valid as a stop gap until the FAS-DPD comes in? After 24 hours pool has gone from green to blue which tells me it is working, have backwashed twice and now working on a vacuum session. Water is cloudy but expect that to improve over time.
