My first SLAM + new to TFP

Jump to latest Follow Reply
A

audi_driver_

Silver Supporter
Bronze Supporter
Jul 27, 2022
52
Houston
Pool Size
17000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Howdy!

Im officially ~24 hours into the TFP method and I would like some guidance as I undergo my first SLAM!

I started with a filmy, cloudy, green pool, which had high CYA (~100). I drained off about 4-6 inches (refilling with tap water), as we as backwashed and deep cleaned the DE filters. After the DE refill I added 2 gallons of liquid 7.13% bleach and left the pump running over night. We are coming up on 24 hours July 31st ~5pm.

I have cleared up majority of the algae but will bush again today. My test results currently are:

FC: 15
TC: 15
PH 8.2
ALK: 67
CYA: 110

I am thinking to add some additional water to 'top off' the pool to help bring the CYA down, but would love any advise from the pros!

When I started:
52254155176_1d906624c7_k.jpg


As of this post - progress!
52254160436_193ab50aa1_k.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: getliquified, hokiejaws07 and TLR425
Welcome to TFP! :wave: Your CYA is still too high. With a non-salt pool, a summer CYA of 60-70 is enough for you. Before you waste anymore chemicals, I would exchange enough water to get teh CYA down to 60-70. 80 at most, then increase the FC to the proper SLAM level noted on the FC/CYA Levels. That's key to a successful SLAM Process and future water management.

Pool Care Basics
 
Just a couple thoughts. I would perform an overnight chlorine loss test to confirm you don't have algae. Click this -->>Overnight Chlorine Loss Test

Second, how did you confirm a CYA of 110? Did you do a diluted CYA test?

Third, it is going to be difficult to maintain a high enough FC for the CYA. How are you chlorinating?

Lastly, would you fill out your signature? Will really help us help you!

Create Your Signature - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
  • Like
Reactions: wireform
Thank you all for the quick and thoughtful advise! I went to drain and only got a few inches down before sucking air into the system.

Now with the pump turned on, I dont get any water flow. I thought it might have been from my water lower getting too low, but I have have now added back the few inches of water with the same result..

Frustrating.. the learning curve is steep.
 
I would be certain your CYA is actually that high because the response you got from the chlorine is unusually good for that high of a CYA. Also as a side note taking a PH reading with a FC above 10 renders it inaccurate but that's only a small issue for now.
 
  • Like
Reactions: audi_driver_
A few questions will help us.
Is your equipment pad above or below your skimmers?
Can you tell us how high up your water is relative to the bottom of the skimmer opening? 25% 50% 75% or to top of skimmer opening?
When you look in the skimmer cover, is there water in the skimmer pot?
Are your weir doors moving? (the doors to the skimmer) Are they moving freely?
Did you turn off the pump / catch when it went dry or did it run for a period of time?
What exactly happened when you turned on your pump after you replaced the water? (I.e. Turned on the pump for 5 minutes and it never primed).
Do you only have skimmers, or do you have main drains?

Finally, can you post pictures of your equipment pad. This will really help!

We will help you get this fixed.
 
Last edited:
Just getting started on things today! As I mentioned above I was only able to drain a handful of inches off using the main pump before (presumably) sucking air into the system. I turned everything off and refilled.

EDIT: as of this morning I primed the pump and its back running! I am going to let it run for a bit and retest.

Once I have tested I will update the thread, and provide the pics/additional info requested!

I appreciate the help!
 
Last edited:

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
The test results are in... and my CYA is still high! I forget there was ~half a puck in my fountain and that has been removed. The Chlornator has been completely disabled.

FC: 11
PH: 7.9
TA: 67
CH: 225
CYA: 110
 
Let’s get your CYA number dialed in. Do a diluted CYA test. Fill the CYA bottle with pool water to the first line. Then tap water to to the next line. Mix… Then pour off back down to the first line. Then add the CYA reagent, I think R-0013, to the top line. Mix… then do your CYA test outside back to sun, test vial waist high.

When you get your results, double it.
 
  • Like
Reactions: audi_driver_ and PoolStored
audi_driver_ said:
Just completed a dulited CYA test with my K2006C. Based on my novice reading I am 100, maybe 90.
Click to expand...
Great JOB!!!

Your fundamental problem is your CYA level. When you use tabs to chlorinate they add CYA to the water. As CYA increases in a pool, you need ever higher levels of FC to sanitize the water (kill bugs and algae). When you get above about 60-70 you can't practically maintain enough FC to sanitize the pool and you need to lower the CYA. The best way to do that safely is the exchange water.

To do that the best thing you can do is to perform a "no-drain water exchange." This keeps the water in your pool while you exchange the CYA water for fresh water without draining the pool. This protects your pool from potential damage if you drain water from the shell. This link explains the process. Go to section 3.5.

Draining - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

Also, the best thing you can do is get a sump pump to drain the pool at the same time you are adding water. Essentially, you want to drain and add water at the same rate.

Submersible Pumps - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

Read these two and we can help you get started!

Finally, at your level of CYA, it is likely that you have algae (even if you cannot see it) and will be really difficult kill with a CYA of 100.

The one thing you can do tonight to confirm algae is an Overnight Chlorine Loss test. Take all tablets or chemicals sitting in the pool out, leave the pump running. Wait until after sunset, and at least 30 minutes after removing chemical, pump still running, test your FC and CC. Leave your pump on overnight. BEFORE sunrise, test your FC and CC again. Report those results tomorrow (if you get this message tonight). This link has specific instruction on the test, print them out and carry them around...I did!

www.troublefreepool.com

Perform the Overnight FC Loss Test (OCLT)

The Overnight Chlorine Loss Test tells if the SLAM is finished or if you need to start a SLAM. This article says how to do the OCLT.
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

Please come back with any questions, we have a bunch of us watching this thread that will jump in and help.
 
Thanks again for the guidance! Ive ordered a pump Superior 91330 that will arrive no later than tomorrow (Wednesday).

I have not done the overnight test as I know there is still algae (I can see it). Looks like I need to do some scrubbing while I wait for the pump.
 
audi_driver_ said:
Thanks again for the guidance! Ive ordered a pump Superior 91330 that will arrive no later than tomorrow (Wednesday).

I have not done the overnight test as I know there is still algae (I can see it). Looks like I need to do some scrubbing while I wait for the pump.
Click to expand...
Great!

While you are waiting, since you have your test kit, keep your FC at 11-13. That will keep the algae from growing; Pool math will tell you how much liquid chlorine to add DAILY to get back to 11-13. Do you have pool math? -->PoolMath If not, get it!

Until you get your water exchanged, read this, print it out, carry it around...it will be our next step after the water exchange:
www.troublefreepool.com

SLAM - Shock Level and Maintain

We’ve all had to deal with a green pool. Clear algae from your pool with a SLAM! Read here to use shock level and maintain to clear your pool.
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

Again, any question, don't hesitate to ask.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: audi_driver_
PoolStored said:
Great!

While you are waiting, since you have your test kit, keep your FC at 11-13. That will keep the algae from growing; Pool math will tell you how much liquid chlorine to add DAILY to get back to 11-13. Do you have pool math? -->PoolMath If not, get it!

Until you get your water exchanged, read this, print it out, carry it around...it will be our next step after the water exchange:
www.troublefreepool.com

SLAM - Shock Level and Maintain

We’ve all had to deal with a green pool. Clear algae from your pool with a SLAM! Read here to use shock level and maintain to clear your pool.
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

Again, any question, don't hesitate to ask.
Click to expand...
Spitballing the math here... if my CYA is ~100 and I need to get it down to at least 50 and ideally a bit lower (right?) then is it safe to presume I need to exchange at least half of the water?

If that is the case I need to calculate my fill rate, pump out rate, and from there figure the time to run the pump for the swap.
 
  • Like
Reactions: mknauss
audi_driver_ said:
Spitballing the math here... if my CYA is ~100 and I need to get it down to at least 50 and ideally a bit lower (right?) then is it safe to presume I need to exchange at least half of the water?

If that is the case I need to calculate my fill rate, pump out rate, and from there figure the time to run the pump for the swap.
Click to expand...
Spot on. Get a 5 gallon bucket. Turn hose on and time how long it takes to fill. That will give you fill rate.

On the output side the pump usually drains faster than fill. Just throttle it (on/off, or raise the hose higher, like over a ladder or kink it a bit to slow outflow down), so water level stays fairly constant during exchange.

Do the exchange in one fell swoop, don't drain 5" then fill, you will be taking water that has mixed out and will take much longer and more water.
 
Last edited:
Correct, time the input water and the output water and slow down the higher rate to match the slower one. Another point is over drain about 10% so you achieve your final outcome. Also, no pump whatsoever and to make sure it doesn't somehow miraculously turn on shut off the circuit breaker.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply