Mustard Algae?

bluegirl2

Silver Supporter
Jun 8, 2014
83
Southern WI
Pool Size
18000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Hi Everyone,
For all the years I've been on here, I've never run across this issue. What I thought was persistent dirt every single day, I think it's mustard algae, but not 100% sure. Pool has been a bit murky as well. I have probably over shot the SLAM process because I'm so frustrated since I've been working on this non stop for almost 2 weeks now. I've sanitized EVERYTHING. The pump has not stopped running which doesn't help with the high electric bill. I'm tired since I've been doing all this by myself with a broken ankle and I'm crabby now. Sorry. Need to vent.
Upon opening I SLAMMED. After this second SLAM 1.5 weeks ago the 'dirt' turned white/gray so I just kept brushing it and finally decided to hand vacuum today after cleaning the cartridge filter yesterday. Maybe should have waited to clean it until after vacuuming?
Also, I just bought a new solar cover around 2.5 weeks ago and put it on without knowing there was an issue, so it's probably on that too. The cover is on a reel. The old solar cover was probably the culprit and I threw it out. Here are my readings:
FC = 34 Yep. I know.
CC = 0
PH = Off the charts
TA = 125
CYA = 40
Here are photos of what it looks like after SLAM. Water is not clear. Should I put my solar cover back on while SLAM to clean that too? Today, I bought a new hand vac, hose, scope handle and brush even though I sanitized all the old stuff already. Thank you!
20240707_173913.jpg20240707_173926.jpg
 
Last edited:
Good morning. I would definitely leave the cover off and let the FC come down. We don't want to see anything happen to your liner because the FC was so high for an extended period of time. I would let the FC fall back down to 16 and do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test. At the same time, make sure there is nothing in the pool. No ladder or anything. Just water and a liner. With an FC that high and brushing once a day, no algae can live in there. If you continue to see cloudiness after passing the OCLT, then we should come back and look at other areas of your pool and chemistry.

By the way, what brand of liquid chlorine have you been using?
 
Good Morning,
I just tested the water and it was FC=20 CC =0 and PH getting lower but still off the charts. Here is a photo of the chlorine I've been using for a long time and also what the water looks like today. If I brush it, it will get cloudy again. Thank you! 20240708_100432.jpg20240708_095750.jpg
 
That looks like some good pool chlorine. :goodjob: That white stuff may just be dead organic material and not necessarily from an algae bloom. You can ignore the pH test until such time that you allow the FC to fall below 10. When the FC is over 10 it messes with the pH test. I would still do the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test when your schedule permits.
 
So that chlorine is ok? I was thinking about getting heavy duty stuff from a chemical company. I know the PH will be high and will come down. My new question is why did my chlorine level go from 34 to 20 within 13 hours? Isn't that a bit drastic? Should I vacuum that stuff up again? Does my filter need to be cleaned again? It won't leave the pool no matter what I do. How do I get rid of that? Thank you, Renee
 
My new question is why did my chlorine level go from 34 to 20 within 13 hours?
When your FC is way above the recommended level, it will drop much faster because there is not enough stabilizer available for the free chlorine to hold onto. The rate of FC drop should slow down soon.

If the pool floor looks dirty, sure, you can vacuum. You clean the filter when you see the pressure has increased by about 25%. On these pool gauges that's not much of an increase in numbers. For example, if your clean pressure was say 7 psi and it increased to a pressure of 10-11 psi, it may be a signal to clean the filter.
 
When your FC is way above the recommended level, it will drop much faster because there is not enough stabilizer available for the free chlorine to hold onto. The rate of FC drop should slow down soon.

If the pool floor looks dirty, sure, you can vacuum. You clean the filter when you see the pressure has increased by about 25%. On these pool gauges that's not much of an increase in numbers. For example, if your clean pressure was say 7 psi and it increased to a pressure of 10-11 psi, it may be a signal to clean the filter.
Hi, Here's where I am now. FC = 16 CC = 0 TA = 110 PH = 7.8 roughly I vacuumed twice, cleaned the filter maybe 1.5 hours ago. There is still a little white stuff on bottom. Should I continue to SLAM? Can I put my solar cover on? Thank you Texas Splash, Renee
 
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The pH test is not valid when FC>10. You only need to test FC during SLAM, until you do the OCLT. When you pass the FC test on the OCLT, then test the CC on that Sample.

Continue to slam until the pool is clear and there is no more stuff on the bottom and you pass the other criteria.

It is ok to put the cover on at night.
 
The pH test is not valid when FC>10. You only need to test FC during SLAM, until you do the OCLT. When you pass the FC test on the OCLT, then test the CC on that Sample.

Continue to slam until the pool is clear and there is no more stuff on the bottom and you pass the other criteria.

It is ok to put the cover on at night.
Do I still SLAM for algae? At 16 now.
 
Continue to SLAM until.
  1. Your overnight chlorine loss is <=1 Use this test...Link-->Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
  2. Your CC<=.5
  3. AND
  4. Your pool is clear with no nothing on the bottoms or sides. No white stuff, no dead algae, no live algae. Clear Clear, like this Link-->How Clear is TFP Clear?
 
Continue to SLAM until.
  1. Your overnight chlorine loss is <=1 Use this test...Link-->Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
  2. Your CC<=.5
  3. AND
  4. Your pool is clear with no nothing on the bottoms or sides. No white stuff, no dead algae, no live algae. Clear Clear, like this Link-->How Clear is TFP Clear?
Because I have ADD, I've always had a problem with this test. So if I'm SLAMing and at 16 tonight, then get up early AM and test and it's, say 13 then there is something in the water and continue to SLAM. Correct? Some things I just don't get.
 
So if I'm SLAMing and at 16 tonight, then get up early AM and test and it's, say 13 then there is something in the water and continue to SLAM.
Yes. Make sure your evening test is after sunset and 30 minutes after your last chlorine addition, with the pump running.
Your morning test needs to be before sunrise, pump should run 30 minutes before the test, or leave the pump on overnight.
 
Yes. Make sure your evening test is after sunset and 30 minutes after your last chlorine addition, with the pump running.
Your morning test needs to be before sunrise, pump should run 30 minutes before the test, or leave the pump on overnight.
That pump has been running non stop for days.... I always doubted myself on that test. I've actually been doing it correct then. Thank you so much for your help! You are awesome! Renee
 
When your FC is way above the recommended level, it will drop much faster because there is not enough stabilizer available for the free chlorine to hold onto. The rate of FC drop should slow down soon.

If the pool floor looks dirty, sure, you can vacuum. You clean the filter when you see the pressure has increased by about 25%. On these pool gauges that's not much of an increase in numbers. For example, if your clean pressure was say 7 psi and it increased to a pressure of 10-11 psi, it may be a signal to clean the filter.
Good Morning,
Cannot pass the OCLT. 3 nights now. The white stuff on the bottom isn't as bad as it was though. I vacuum twice a day. I had it at MA SLAM level last night at 9:30 and it was at 24. This morning at 4:30AM it was at 20. I'm wondering if the PH was too high when I started SLAM for MA. It just won't go away. I don't know where to go from here. This is making me crazy. I feel like the pool cleaner that isn't allowed to swim.
 

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