Muriatic Acid helps
- Thread starter eri17vqs
- Start date
None. Pouring MA from one vessel to another can cause unwanted splashing. Just pour straight from the jug and keep your nose away from it.
- May 3, 2014
- 59,475
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Welcome to the forum.
www.troublefreepool.com
Chemical Storage and Safety - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
dBsooner
Gold Supporter
None. Pour slowly into the pool, and keep my head turned away. There are several reasons why this is safe.
dBsooner
Gold Supporter
And I've officially truly been Marty-d. Beat me to the punch with the link. Pay close attention to the PPE section under Muriatic Acid.Welcome to the forum.
Chemical Storage and Safety - Further Reading
Agree with above -- I wear chemist-style safety goggles (well, I don't always, but I intend to), don't use gloves or a respirator, and pour directly from the jug.
No gloves -- A splash of MA on your skin isn't a big deal. Rinse it within a short time, but nothing to panic about. And you have thousands of gallons of water conveniently right there.
Goggles and no respirator -- A splash of MA or extended exposure to fumes on your eyes can be a very big deal. Goggles can protect against splashing, but most won't against fumes, thus NOT wearing a respirator so you know to move away.
Measuring -- don't worry about to-the-ounce measurements. I have a marked stick and sharpie that I use to transfer quart lines to new jugs, and that's the rough amount I put in every time. I target a range rather than obsessing over a specific pH number. In my case, when it gets to 8.0, I put in about a quart, bringing it down to 7.5-7.6ish, and wait for it to get up again. That takes 1.5-2 weeks in my pool.
No gloves -- A splash of MA on your skin isn't a big deal. Rinse it within a short time, but nothing to panic about. And you have thousands of gallons of water conveniently right there.
Goggles and no respirator -- A splash of MA or extended exposure to fumes on your eyes can be a very big deal. Goggles can protect against splashing, but most won't against fumes, thus NOT wearing a respirator so you know to move away.
Measuring -- don't worry about to-the-ounce measurements. I have a marked stick and sharpie that I use to transfer quart lines to new jugs, and that's the rough amount I put in every time. I target a range rather than obsessing over a specific pH number. In my case, when it gets to 8.0, I put in about a quart, bringing it down to 7.5-7.6ish, and wait for it to get up again. That takes 1.5-2 weeks in my pool.
titleistseemore
Gold Supporter
I gently allow the bottle to enter the pool to about 3/4 up the jug and then poor slowly, doing it this way ensures there is no splashing of the acid ...
Safety glasses, pour slowly in front of a return and stay downwind.
MA isn’t that bad but should be respected.
MA isn’t that bad but should be respected.
Thank you all for your responses I also read the following link: Chemical Storage and Safety - Further Reading
The thing is I have read and watched videos about making a 1 part Muriatic Acid dilution in a 5 gallon bucket filled with water about half way which would make 10 part water for a 1:10 dilution.
Based on your answers that you pour it directly from the pitcher, then what are your recommendations for pouring an exact amount according to desired value to lower the pH according to doses per gallon etc.?
Do you mark the measurements with lines on your jugs by ounces or something and use that as a guide?
The thing is I have read and watched videos about making a 1 part Muriatic Acid dilution in a 5 gallon bucket filled with water about half way which would make 10 part water for a 1:10 dilution.
Based on your answers that you pour it directly from the pitcher, then what are your recommendations for pouring an exact amount according to desired value to lower the pH according to doses per gallon etc.?
Do you mark the measurements with lines on your jugs by ounces or something and use that as a guide?
- Sep 23, 2015
- 1,630
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Astral Viron V25
Welcome to TFP,
Don't bother with the dilution, you’re adding extra potential for an incident without gain and you then need to reverse the dilution calculation for your actual dose. Just go straight to the pool. No need to be super accurate as your pH is constantly shifting anyway.
A dilution is really only for those that are using an automated dosing system that requires a dilution.
Agree 100% -- don't dilute (well, dilute into your 20,000 gallon "bucket"
), and there's no need to measure to the ounce. How many gallons is your pool? Target pH is a pretty wide range, so you can approximate just fine. Like I said, I put quart lines on my MA jugs, but many people just guestimate it and I probabaly could too by now. Let's say I'm targeting getting down to 7.5 from 8.0 If I put in too much, pH might go to 7.4, which is fine and will mean an extra couple days before having to add next time. Or if I put too little in, it might go to 7.6 or even 7.7, and again,that just means it'll be a day or two sooner before I need to add again.The less you mess with stuff, the easier and safer. Similarly, some people talk about "broadcasting" chemicals around the pool -- but that just risks splashing, tripping, etc. Pour in front of a return, and the water will self-"broadcast" and mix just fine in a half hour or so.
- Jan 7, 2012
- 1,608
- Pool Size
- 21000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
That's an inferior technique. Every time MA is handled, it increases the risk of a splash or spill. Pouring straight from the jug reduces the chance of skin or eye contact to almost nothing.
Muriatic Acid scares the bejeezes out of me.
I also use the lower strength stuff. I know it’s more expensive and I don’t care. I am usually all about saving money and saving plastic, but not here. I go through about a gallon a year so the difference in cost is not going to break me. On the other hand, the full strength stuff scares me too...
www.troublefreepool.com
Adding Muriatic
Need 59oz of Muriatic Acid to my pool? Can I add it all at once? Does it need to be diluted or can I add directly from bottle?
www.troublefreepool.com
For 12 oz, I visualize a soda can. A gallon is 128 oz, so 12 oz is around 1/10th of a jug. You don't need extreme precision. You can always add more MA or LC if needed. You can rest the jug on the surface of the water and use its buoyancy to assist.
I don't have a pool but I am looking for recommendations since I am going to provide maintenance services, thank you for your response.Agree 100% -- don't dilute (well, dilute into your 20,000 gallon "bucket"
The less you mess with stuff, the easier and safer. Similarly, some people talk about "broadcasting" chemicals around the pool -- but that just risks splashing, tripping, etc. Pour in front of a return, and the water will self-"broadcast" and mix just fine in a half hour or so.
Ok thanksThat's an inferior technique. Every time MA is handled, it increases the risk of a splash or spill. Pouring straight from the jug reduces the chance of skin or eye contact to almost nothing.
Muriatic Acid scares the bejeezes out of me.
I also use the lower strength stuff. I know it’s more expensive and I don’t care. I am usually all about saving money and saving plastic, but not here. I go through about a gallon a year so the difference in cost is not going to break me. On the other hand, the full strength stuff scares me too...
Adding Muriatic
Need 59oz of Muriatic Acid to my pool? Can I add it all at once? Does it need to be diluted or can I add directly from bottle?
For 12 oz, I visualize a soda can. A gallon is 128 oz, so 12 oz is around 1/10th of a jug. You don't need extreme precision. You can always add more MA or LC if needed. You can rest the jug on the surface of the water and use its buoyancy to assist.
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