Moving.. Going to do a DIY Build.

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Dirk said:
Are they going to do another pressure test? Or have they hooked up everything on the pad already?
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It was under pressure constantly since installation as the pad was complete before shotcrete and is again now but I can't check it right now as I planned to. (See next post)
 
E6E14874-79D2-49F7-A2B0-8E26DECD18A1.jpeg
Just when I thought we were clear of the frickin hurricane! Drainage is not in yet and we get a major downpour.

I can't even get to the equipment pad until I get some temporary drainage dug..
 
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kimkats said:
Just be glad the pool was shot!

So how did you not lose pressure if there was another hole in the pipes?
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True! That would have been an even bigger issue.

The valve at the reduced pressure principal backflow preventer feeding the auto fill was inadvertently turned off.. or was it intentionally turned off?
 
kimkats said:
So how did you not lose pressure if there was another hole in the pipes?
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His other leak was in the pipe feeding his auto-filler, which is a completely separate plumbing circuit, independent of the plumbing circuit that connects the pump and skimmer(s) and returns, etc.

But that raises a question I'm now curious about... How do PBs typically test all the independent circuits? Some pools only have one. Some pools have an auto-fill circuit. That'd be two. Others might have several independent circuits: the main filter circuit, auto-fill circuit, I think a spa bubbler would be separate, or a water feature circuit. Some of those would have their own dedicated pump and separate plumbing.

Does a PB put a pressure gauge on each of those independent circuits? Or perhaps temporarily glue them together at the pad and test them all as one circuit? I've never read here how that is done.

One thing all those separate circuits have in common though: they all run under the deck, and must be thoroughly tested before any concrete goes in!
 
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All circuits are pressurized by having the valves in the bypass position rather than in pool, spa or waterfall position so it is open to all branches. The pressure is read on the filter. Before the leak it was at 25psi. Yesterday it was set to 10psi to let the glue set. I need to hook up the hose and push it up but can't yet due to the current conditions of muck in the area.

(I did put a nice cushion of crushed recycled concrete around the pipes but didn't get a picture of it before the deluge. After the clean up I'll add a bit more and get the picture.)

The automatic fill is pressurized by opening the valve feeding it on the reduced pressure principal vacuum breaker.

The system is fully pressurized throughout construction this way.
 
ShallowWater said:
All circuits are pressurized by having the valves in the bypass position rather than in pool, spa or waterfall position so it is open to all branches. The pressure is read on the filter. Before the leak it was at 25psi. Yesterday it was set to 10psi to let the glue set. I need to hook up the hose and push it up but can't yet due to the current conditions of muck in the area.

(I did put a nice cushion of crushed recycled concrete around the pipes but didn't get a picture of it before the deluge. After the clean up I'll add a bit more and get the picture.)

The automatic fill is pressurized by opening the valve feeding it on the reduced pressure principal vacuum breaker.

The system is fully pressurized throughout construction this way.
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Interesting, but that's not at all how I've seen it done. It's typically done (or rather can be done) before there are any valves, or a filter, and a dedicated pressure gauge is used (and inspected), not the gauge on the filter. Though I suppose what you described would work. Like this:

coxpools-step7b.jpg

Here's another example. It's hard to see, but there are two gauges on this one:

steel-plumbing-electrical.jpg

If that second setup had another circuit, like an auto-fill line, I was wondering if there would be a third gauge.
 
But that's a two step process. The way mine is being tested all equipment and connections are tested and the plumber is basically done as all the equipment is installed already. The plasterer installs the eyeballs and suction drains and I cut open the water fall feature and install a T and two elbows to direct the water down into the well as well as cut the loop at the skimmer and unscrew the two pipes there. The plumber will come back to assist if needed but I don't think I'll need it or if there's issues because I held back a bit of money.
 
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Bonding Grid in and inspected.

Drainage in and consists of 4" NDS Corrugated pipe and drains.

Backfilling all trenches with miscellaneous crushed concrete aggregate base as well as laying in 2" of base over compacted native which is a clay-e silt with a slight expansion potential.

Low voltage lighting conduit and 120 plugs going in around the perimeter

Drip system for pot scape and pressure line for hose bib going in as well.

Concrete pour scheduled for October 1.

Just got a notification that T tile should arrive in that same time frame so tile arrives tomorrow but won't be installed until in early August October; fence and gate inspection in that time frame then plaster. Should be able to get in it mid to late October and in SoCal with the backyard due south it should be swimming for a bit before it is just too cold.

Concrete guy says they've never put in visqueen on the bondbeam.
How to convince otherwise?

15A58AE4-875A-492E-B136-7BFAB1CA3398.jpeg
 
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duraleigh said:
I put roofing felt on mine. I agree it (visqueen or roofing felt) is probably not needed but I wanted it anyway so I put it down myself
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Guess I'll do it myself then. Getting the house re-roofed now so can probably get some from the roofer. How did you secure it?
 
When I had my pool refinished, the contract stated no roofing to be going on during the plastering. It was about the nails getting into the plaster. Personally, I wouldn't want any nails laying on the shell that could get buried in the plaster finish. Maybe they'll be far enough away from the surface to not rust, but maybe they won't.

I would either very thoroughly cover the pool, or find a way to extract the tiniest bit of metal off the shell after the roofing is done, or both, before the plasterers show up. The pool will definitely get bombarded by nails, it's a specific passage in Murphy's Law, but I forget the page number!

murphy's-law.jpg
 
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Dirk said:
When I had my pool refinished, the contract stated no roofing to be going on during the plastering. It was about the nails getting into the plaster. Personally, I wouldn't want any nails laying on the shell that could get buried in the plaster finish. Maybe they'll be far enough away from the surface to not rust, but maybe they won't.

I would either very thoroughly cover the pool, or find a way to extract the tiniest bit of metal off the shell after the roofing is done, or both, before the plasterers show up. The pool will definitely get bombarded by nails, it's a specific passage in Murphy's Law, but I forget the page number!

View attachment 454108
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Too late. I suppose I need to scour the bottom with a magnet but first I'll go look to see if there are any visible to the eye.

Just one more thing to worry about!
 
ShallowWater said:
Too late. I suppose I need to scour the bottom with a magnet but first I'll go look to see if there are any visible to the eye.

Just one more thing to worry about!
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Yes, but it'll be one LESS thing to worry about after you check!
 
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Let's make sure we are talking about the same thing. On top of the pool wall, I laid down #15 roofing felt to better separate the pool wall from the decking. Then I poured the concrete decking on top.......no security necessary.
 
duraleigh said:
Let's make sure we are talking about the same thing. On top of the pool wall, I laid down #15 roofing felt to better separate the pool wall from the decking. Then I poured the concrete decking on top.......no security necessary.
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I'm just wondering how to keep the felt from shifting while pouring and working the concrete.
 

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