Moving.. Going to do a DIY Build.

Would this be a spill that only overflows during filtration mode but no other time?

Can you expand on what you are describing?

My pool is in POOL mode filtering 24/7 since I run my pump 24/7 at low speed. POOL mode = filtration mode and is always filtering when the pump is running.

How to control that?

You schedule SPILLOVER to run for 15-20 minutes when you want to refersh the SPA water.

I run my spillover at 9:14 AM for 20 minutes to get chlorinated water in the spa for the day and then at 2PM for 20 minutes to refresh the chlorination.

1660509808731.png


Is it possible to program a separate run time for the spa to get refreshed, say at 2am or so?

Yes, you can schedule SPILLOVER to run anytime for whatever length you want.
 
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Can you expand on what you are describing?

My pool is in POOL mode filtering 24/7 since I run my pump 24/7 at low speed. POOL mode = filtration mode and is always filtering when the pump is running.



You schedule SPILLOVER to run for 15-20 minutes when you want to refersh the SPA water.

I run my spillover at 9:14 AM for 20 minutes to get chlorinated water in the spa for the day and then at 2PM for 20 minutes to refresh the chlorination.

View attachment 446332




Yes, you can schedule SPILLOVER to run anytime for whatever length you want.
I sure can expand on it..

So I construct a tile spillway, lower than the coping/deck but nothing comes over it but a couple of times a day under day to day operations.

In the morning and evening each day and when people are over I can have other programs, say "Sunrise" where the lights come on for a bit and the pump runs at a higher RPM like 2200 but the valve supplying water to the spa shuts off so there is no spill out of the spa but only out of the stepped tile cascade waterfall. This runs from say 5am when I'm up to just after sunrise. The next program would be "Sunset" which would do a similar thing but in the evening. The regular circulation mode runs maybe 12 to 24 hours a day but is at such a low RPM it cannot overcome the dynamic head of the raised spa so it only circulates the pool. Then there's a couple spa filtrations at full RPM and only this water goes over the spa spillway [or when a bunch of people (or one..) get into the spa].

Then there's a manual "Party" mode that turns on the lights, or not based on time of day and then goes into the 2200 RPM mode and closes the spa supply valve so nothing spills out of the spa tile spillway mentioned above. This mode would be triggered manually.
 
Some sequencing questions.

How long does shotcrete need to be kept wet and cured before proceeding to the next step?

I'm using a cantilevered deck with no coping. I know the bond beam needs to have a leveling mortar and bond breaker installed. I've seen that the tile goes first then plaster then coping then deck but is this the best way to do it with a cantilevered deck? I'm wondering if the deck should go first so as to not damage the tile when installing the deck forms so it should be deck, tile then plaster.

BTW, what is recommended to use for the bond breaker and mastic around the perimeter?
 
So I construct a tile spillway, lower than the coping/deck but nothing comes over it but a couple of times a day under day to day operations.

With automation you have three fixed modes the pool/spa can be in…
  1. POOL mode - water comes from the pool intake/skimmers and out the pool returns.
  2. SPA mode - water comes from the spa suction and out the spa returns/jets
  3. SPILLWAY mode - water comes from the pool intakes/skimmers and out the spa returns/jets

In the morning and evening each day and when people are over I can have other programs, say "Sunrise" where the lights come on for a bit and the pump runs at a higher RPM like 2200

You are running in POOL mode and you have a circuit group that turns on the lights and POOL mode for the desired RPM.

but the valve supplying water to the spa shuts off so there is no spill out of the spa but only out of the stepped tile cascade waterfall.

Water to the spa was never on.

This runs from say 5am when I'm up to just after sunrise. The next program would be "Sunset" which would do a similar thing but in the evening. The regular circulation mode runs maybe 12 to 24 hours a day

This is all in POOL mode.

but is at such a low RPM it cannot overcome the dynamic head of the raised spa so it only circulates the pool.

Water into the spa is never on.

Then there's a couple spa filtrations at full RPM and only this water goes over the spa spillway [or when a bunch of people (or one..) get into the spa].

That is running SPILLWAY mode.

When people are in the spa you want to be in SPA mode.

Then there's a manual "Party" mode that turns on the lights, or not based on time of day and then goes into the 2200 RPM mode and closes the spa supply valve so nothing spills out of the spa tile spillway mentioned above. This mode would be triggered manually.
That is still POOL mode.
 
Some sequencing questions.

How long does shotcrete need to be kept wet and cured before proceeding to the next step?

What is the next step?

I'm using a cantilevered deck with no coping. I know the bond beam needs to have a leveling mortar and bond breaker installed. I've seen that the tile goes first then plaster then coping then deck but is this the best way to do it with a cantilevered deck? I'm wondering if the deck should go first so as to not damage the tile when installing the deck forms so it should be deck, tile then plaster.

BTW, what is recommended to use for the bond breaker and mastic around the perimeter?


The decking is also used as the coping which is placed in one continuous pour to create a seamless looking deck. Prior to pouring the deck, the level of the grade should be brought up to become level with the top of the bond beam and be very well compacted.

A “decoupling” expansion joint should extend across the entire width of the top of the bond beam to allow the deck to move independent of the pool shell. This joint can be created with a 4mm plastic sheet or 2 layers of roofing felt underlayment.

It is very important that the waterline tile is installed after the deck is placed so there is no chance of the deck expanding and popping off the tile (see tile placement in the diagram). The tile can be grouted as usual but the top joint between the deck and tile should be filled with a flexible sealant that is not silicone based.

Cantilevered_Coping.png
 

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I know this pad is a little bit more congested and tight than I or most of you would like but we didn't have a huge amount of space for it either given the location of the gas meter, water softener and keeping the heater separated from the bedroom window.
 
What brand of valves are those? Are you planning to add a pool automation system?
Those are Jandy Valve Actuators and yes, the IntelliCenter and IC40 are still in the box. The Electrician comes tomorrow to do the electrical installation. My Plumber and Electrician work together all the time.
 
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