Motor overheating, shutting off

glamp

Member
Jul 19, 2024
18
ohio
I have 16 x32 inground pool. Have a 3/4 HP motor which is one year old. Opened pool in early May and everything was running fine.I made a super big mistake of going to local pool store and getting a water analysis. They told me phosphates were really high and I needed to add 32 oz of phosphate reducer. I broadcasted the liquid phosphate reducer around the pool and waited two hours and Backwashed. The next day, my motor started shutting off. My fuse box never tripped, but the motor was super hot. Me and my friend got an amperage meter and checked the amps on the receptacle and my amps were 13.6. We ran it with the pump dry to see what the amps were and they were normal at 11. I have been having this problem ever since I put in the phosphate reducer. When I brush my pool to the drain, I can see lot of cloudy dead phosphates what I presume to be. When we run my motor with the pressure side valve half opened it reduces my jets, but the motor does not overheat and shut off. I have checked my drains for a blockage. Nothing for the life of me. I can’t figure out the problem. Anybody give me any kind of clue as to what is going on here? I have been brushing the phosphates to the drain and backwashing ever since this started. I have also let it settle three times and vacuumed to waste, but it is still there. I don’t know if it’s the motor the electric or the water viscosity from the phosphate reducer somebody please help
 
Alkalinity and ph normal. Chlorine was .28, shocked today and good. All my chemistry is good except chlorine was low. Copper 0.2 but I have a well.
 

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I have been thinking about wasting 2/3 water and refilling. I have a hydrant on property and city water company charges pretty cheap for adaptor. I rent fire hoses every year when opening to top it off.
 
Alkalinity and ph normal. Chlorine was .28, shocked today and good. All my chemistry is good except chlorine was low. Copper 0.2 but I have a well.
So this is the point where we get a bit more critical and emphasize the differences between TFP and local pool management practices. When someone says their levels are normal, many times it's a red flag. The "normal" levels only mean normal based on what a local pool store said or provided in a printout - generic industry levels. If the owner didn't do their own testing with a TF-Series test kit (or Taylor K-2006C), I can almost guarantee you those normal results are not normal at all. Another example is the copper. That's most likely from pool store products we at TFP never recommend. Wells typically release iron not copper.

No amount of mechanical filtration or repetitious cleaning of the grids will solves a problem with organics in the water disrupting water flow. That is 100% a chemistry issue, and I believe that's what you may have happening right now. If you don't have a TF-100, TF Pro Series, or Taylor K-2006C test kit, that should always be step #1.


 
I have 16 x32 inground pool. Have a 3/4 HP motor which is one year old. Opened pool in early May and everything was running fine.I made a super big mistake of going to local pool store and getting a water analysis. They told me phosphates were really high and I needed to add 32 oz of phosphate reducer. I broadcasted the liquid phosphate reducer around the pool and waited two hours and Backwashed. The next day, my motor started shutting off. My fuse box never tripped, but the motor was super hot. Me and my friend got an amperage meter and checked the amps on the receptacle and my amps were 13.6. We ran it with the pump dry to see what the amps were and they were normal at 11. I have been having this problem ever since I put in the phosphate reducer. When I brush my pool to the drain, I can see lot of cloudy dead phosphates what I presume to be. When we run my motor with the pressure side valve half opened it reduces my jets, but the motor does not overheat and shut off. I have checked my drains for a blockage. Nothing for the life of me. I can’t figure out the problem. Anybody give me any kind of clue as to what is going on here? I have been brushing the phosphates to the drain and backwashing ever since this started. I have also let it settle three times and vacuumed to waste, but it is still there. I don’t know if it’s the motor the electric or the water viscosity from the phosphate reducer somebody please help
Phosphate removers work great to clog filters. The goo they create can get through the DE and onto the fabric of the grids. The pool store strikes again. I've gone to several classes on pool chemicals. When it come to phosphates I always have a problem with the recommendation of removers. The science seems sound, but in practical use not so much.
I have very old pool water, it hasn't been drained for over 25 years. There are so many phosphates in it from all the foliage around my pool that I have not been able to find a test kit that could measure the high amount. My water sparkles, the pH is good, the chlorine level adequate for my use, and zero algae problems. Haven't had an algae bloom since 2015 when we took a last-minute trip and I forgot to make sure there were tablets in the floater. Came back to a slightly green pool that cleared in two days.
You may have a problem with the motor, or you sound like you are running on 120V with a reading of 11A and 13.6A. That's too high for a motor that size. Even a 1hp motor should pull no more than about 6-7A at 120V.
What size impeller is on the pump? Which pump is it? A .75hp motor on a 1hp impeller will do what you are seeing.
 
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I know. It’s strange. I have had 1/2 Hp for 20 years, since I bought the house. Motor is 120v. 20 amp fuse. I am thinking it’s dead phosphates in the water cause when I brush floor I can see them and they cloud up water. I’m gonna keep brushing to drain and backwashing. Getting a new liner installed to start next season and see what happens. It’s just so strange it started day after I put in phosphate reducer. May eventually go to 1 HP. I have a couple 12 volt extension cords. I’m gonna run motor from another outlet and see if it gets gets hot and shuts off. If it does not, then could possibly be my electric.
 
I am thinking it’s dead phosphates
That is not how it works. The phosphate is a chemical, not a living organism. The lantham chloride in phosphate remover simply clumps it together and that is what you see. If you do not remove the clumps out of the pool in a few days, the product breaks down and the phosphates return to the water.
 

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Have a 3/4 HP motor which is one year old.

the amps on the receptacle and my amps were 13.6.

We ran it with the pump dry to see what the amps were and they were normal at 11.

Motor is 120v.
Who replaced the motor?

Do you know what the impeller model number is?

Running dry with no load should be maybe 5 amps, not 11.

Can you check the voltage while the motor is under full load?

Impeller SPX2607C will give you about 50 gpm at about 15 to 19 psi on the filter.

Impeller SPX2605C will give you about 45 gpm at about 12 to 17 psi on the filter.

Impeller SPX2600C will give you about 42 gpm at about 10 to 14 psi on the filter.

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Impeller...........Total HP required.
SPX2600C............0.60
SPX2605C............0.75
SPX2607C............1.10
SPX2610C............1.50
SPX2615C............2.00
 
You need to know which impeller you have.

You need to know the voltage and the current under full load.

Impeller...........Total HP required..............Watts...........Amps (at 115 volts).
SPX2600C............0.60......................................600...............5.2
SPX2605C............0.75......................................750...............6.5
SPX2607C............1.10....................................1100...............9.6
SPX2610C............1.50....................................1500.............13.0
SPX2615C............2.00....................................2000.............17.4
 
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Your filter pressure is way too high (About 22 psi).

You need to disassemble the filter and give it a good cleaning.

In any case, high pressure reduces the motor load, it does not increase the motor load.

Most likely the impeller is too big or the motor is failing or the voltage is dropping too low.

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amperage meter and checked the amps on the receptacle and my amps were 13.6.
That indicates a SPX2610C impeller or maybe a failing motor.

The SPX2610C impeller requires a 1.5 hp motor.

Impeller...........Total HP required..............Watts...........Amps (at 115 volts).
SPX2600C............0.60......................................600...............5.2
SPX2605C............0.75......................................750...............6.5
SPX2607C............1.10....................................1100...............9.6
SPX2610C............1.50....................................1500.............13.0
SPX2615C............2.00....................................2000.............17.4

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