If you have a mineral santizer like nature2 do you still need to keep the chlorine level as normal or will it be ok to have lower chlorine level? if its ok have the chlorine level low then how low can you have it?
mineral santizer low chlorine
- Thread starter jlim0930hh
- Start date
- May 3, 2014
- 58,639
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
The mineral sanitizer does nothing but lead to staining of your pool surfaces and turning blonde hair green. Remove the mineral cartridge ASAP.
For FC, use FC/CYA Levels
For FC, use FC/CYA Levels
- Jun 8, 2019
- 4,576
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
You will find we have a very low opinion of mineral sanitizers here. As Marty said, they lead to many unwanted side effects and the only way to remove the copper from the pool is to replace the water.
Very important note: there's no such thing as a "mineral sanitizer" in a pool. The metals (mineral is a marketing term) introduced in to the water prevent algae, they do nothing to sanitize the water.
When I purchased my house there was a Frog system installed on the pool that I used for a couple of years. The water was never as comfortable, clear, or pleasant smelling as it is since I dropped that and switched to TFPC. It's a myth that low chlorine is preferable, properly balancing the chlorine level to the CYA level is what allows the chlorine to be high enough to quickly eliminate the things in the water that cause discomfort but low enough to cause none of that discomfort itself.
When I purchased my house there was a Frog system installed on the pool that I used for a couple of years. The water was never as comfortable, clear, or pleasant smelling as it is since I dropped that and switched to TFPC. It's a myth that low chlorine is preferable, properly balancing the chlorine level to the CYA level is what allows the chlorine to be high enough to quickly eliminate the things in the water that cause discomfort but low enough to cause none of that discomfort itself.
Algae looks bad, feels slimy, but most forms are harmless. People eat it. The real reason you don't want algae in your pool is because if your sanitizer levels are low enough to allow algae to grow, the sanitizer is much too low to sanitize the water and prevent pathogens (bacteria and viruses) that make people sick. If you ha e enough sanitizer (chlorine) to take care of the pathogens, there's no way algae can grow.
The mineral systems do not sanitize the water, they only inhibit algae growth. You can have (1) expensive and staining mineral system, low sanitizer levels, and a bacteria- and virus-filled pool, (2) expensive and staining mineral system, appropriate sanitizer levels, and a bacteria- and virus-free pool, or (3) no mineral system, appropriate sanitizer levels, and a bacteria- and virus-free pool. Your choice. I choose door number three.
The mineral systems do not sanitize the water, they only inhibit algae growth. You can have (1) expensive and staining mineral system, low sanitizer levels, and a bacteria- and virus-filled pool, (2) expensive and staining mineral system, appropriate sanitizer levels, and a bacteria- and virus-free pool, or (3) no mineral system, appropriate sanitizer levels, and a bacteria- and virus-free pool. Your choice. I choose door number three.
I had a Nature 2 for years. They leak, provide little to no benefit and put metals in
your water that you do *not* want! I never saw any upside to my water quality until
I began using TFP methods and the change was so drastically to the positive that
I never looked back. Remove/stop using the Nature 2. My 2 cents.
your water that you do *not* want! I never saw any upside to my water quality until
I began using TFP methods and the change was so drastically to the positive that
I never looked back. Remove/stop using the Nature 2. My 2 cents.
You should have a low recipe to start system. Pool must be balanced before instal (pH, hardness, alkalinity). Install cartridge and shock pool to activate. once you have FC maintained at 1-2 for 14 days you can let chlorine dissipate to .5.
my friends stay between .5 and 1
my friends stay between .5 and 1
- May 3, 2014
- 58,639
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I realize how you might do that, but that is not TFPC advice. Please be aware that the pool water is not sanitary at that state.
Because unless the CYA level is zero then 1 ppm FC is not enough chlorine to adequately kill bacteria fast enough to consider the water sanitary.
red-beard
Gold Supporter
- May 27, 2019
- 1,621
- Pool Size
- 25000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite Pro (T-15)
The only good thing my "Pool Frog" did for my pool was provide adequate space after removal for my SWG.
And if CYA is 0, all your chlorine will be gone within an hour due to UV. It's impossible to maintain a chlorine level without CYA.
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