Might it be worth it to try "Baquacil Line Clean"? I just don't understand why my starting pressure is so high....

pookiesunshine

Gold Supporter
May 12, 2016
586
Cincinnati, OH
...If I'm correct, one of them is baking soda? If I'd do this, how much of these household products is needed in comparison to, for instance, adding a pound of pool store pH decreaser or increaser?
If you are concerned about economics, it is way cheaper than pool store brand chemicals. If you are concerned about needing massive quantities due to concentration, dont be. If i have misunderstood, it wont be my last time.
 

anthonypool89

Gold Supporter
Aug 26, 2016
587
Berks County, PA
@anthony, as i recall, somewhat vaguely, my wwm/slime problems started about 15 years in, and i have no idea why it started, but once it did....
You know, with my memory not near as good as it used to be, I can't honestly say when I started having trouble with WWM and pink slime. It goes back pretty far but the main difference this season is the greatly reduced filter cycle lengths. Never had that before the end of last season. Generally averaged 2 weeks or often longer before filter pressure got up high enough to have to change. Now, it's a matter of days. Can't keep doing that. I'm having the pool store deliver another 50-75 pounds of DE this week!!
 

anthonypool89

Gold Supporter
Aug 26, 2016
587
Berks County, PA
OH..just forgot. Someone here requested that I send a picture of the equipment pad relative to the discussion of whether or not there would be room to add a SWG. I've been thinking about this also since it seems to be a recommended option. I will get a picture and put it up.
 

Leebo

Admin
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 21, 2011
10,067
Eastern Ohio
To clean a Sand filter you’ve got three options,
  • Taking off the lid and cleaning the sand with a garden hose. This is what we refer to as “Deep Cleaning” and isn’t used often. Compared to other options, it’s a pain.
  • Replace the sand. This method isn’t ever used day to day, but in the sake of transparency I figured I’d mention it.

These two options do use little of the pool water so in theory they could be used and not have to replace a fair amount of water. Issue is, they’re both so impractical that nobody ever does them day to day. But there’s the third option that everybody uses for their normal cleaning method of sand filters,
  • The last is backflushing the filter. This involves using pool water to flow through the sand and out into a drain (or yard) somewhere. As the water flows from the pool it mostly cleans the sand and lowers the PSI
Now here’s the key, when you do this you’re dumping water. You’re then replacing that lost water with new tap water, thus replacing the “old” water frequently. The reason he likely has had better luck with mold is in fact the sand filter....but it’s just because he’s using more fresh water than you are. He’s replacing his water rather frequently compared to yourself who tears the filter apart.

Now, back to reread your post. 👍
 

anthonypool89

Gold Supporter
Aug 26, 2016
587
Berks County, PA
Leebo...true enough, but I probably failed to mention that when I backwash first BEFORE tearing down the filter, I run it for nearly a minute or longer every time . My pump is rated at 85 gpm. So I'm actually "dumping water" too. I don't know how that compares to how long it takes to backwashing with sand. Here's something else....he has 30k gallons. I only have 12.5. So if I'm back-flushing for a minute and he is ALSO back-flushing for a minute, I'm dumping far more, proportionately, than he is. With all these filter cleanings and very little rain, I've had the hose in the pool for several days - so who knows how many more hundreds of gallons were added that way. I had to since the water was getting to point where I was close to running just from the drain. And, of course, at the end of every season I'm probably dumping several hundred gallons before closing. I go down a few inches below the skimmer. Now, that being said, my cover is mesh - so the pool fills up again and again. BUT, over the entire winter, at least until the pool freezes (it hasn't of late - probably one of the few advantages of global warming), I check the SI and adjust PH and TA as needed all winter long AND pump off enough water so that the level is always back down to where I ended when I close in October. All THAT being said (sheesh...) by the time I open, the spring rains and/or snow melt once again have the pool nearly at or sometimes even above operating level. And that water is full of organic debris - worms, leaves, etc.
 
Last edited: