Rensfirstpool

Member
Jun 5, 2024
14
ONTARIO CANADA
Pool Size
20000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Turbo Cell (T-CELL-5)
My pool shop told me I have 0.25 ppm of coppers.
What i don’t understand is how much metasol to add? Do I adjust other levels first ??
Thanks
I’ve attached the readings
 

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Welcome to TFP! :wave: So a few things to help get you going. Pool store testing is notoriously wrong and inconsistent. You literally could go back tomorrow and see completely different results. For that reason we highly encourage members to test their own water with a "proper" test kit. We recommend either a TF-100/Pro-Series kit if you have access to deliveries in the US. Otherwise, it's the Taylor K-2006C up north. Testing is not difficult at all and you can be assured of accurate no-nonsense results. Plus, no one will pressure you to buy over-priced items that in most cases do not work or make the situation worse.

Unless you are using a copper-based sanitation system, the only way copper would get in the water is from something the pool store sold you. Things like algaecides or products called "Blue". The only way to remove copper is to exchange some water. It's best to do it soon before staining occurs which can be difficult to remove.

So for now, I would just keep your FC balanced to the CYA as noted on our FC/CYA Levels. Order one of those test kits I noted, and then post a full set of your numbers for us to review. We're happy to help guide you from there.

Also bookmark -----> Pool Care Basics
 
Thanks for the quick reply I used algeacide last month but about 200 ml of it . How much water do you recommend I drain in the meantime. Just ordered the tests so I should have more results when those tests arrive .
 
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How much water do you recommend I drain in the meantime
For now, let's just wait until you receive the test kit so we can have accurate numbers. No guesswork. :goodjob: The test kit won't give a copper reading, but may indicate other reasons to exchange water.
 
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Welcome to TFP! :wave: So a few things to help get you going. Pool store testing is notoriously wrong and inconsistent. You literally could go back tomorrow and see completely different results. For that reason we highly encourage members to test their own water with a "proper" test kit. We recommend either a TF-100/Pro-Series kit if you have access to deliveries in the US. Otherwise, it's the Taylor K-2006C up north. Testing is not difficult at all and you can be assured of accurate no-nonsense results. Plus, no one will pressure you to buy over-priced items that in most cases do not work or make the situation worse.

Unless you are using a copper-based sanitation system, the only way copper would get in the water is from something the pool store sold you. Things like algaecides or products called "Blue". The only way to remove copper is to exchange some water. It's best to do it soon before staining occurs which can be difficult to remove.

So for now, I would just keep your FC balanced to the CYA as noted on our FC/CYA Levels. Order one of those test kits I noted, and then post a full set of your numbers for us to review. We're happy to help guide you from there.

Also bookmark -----> Pool Care Basics
Hi @Texas Splash I have the test rom the taylor ck-2006. And the salt test from k1766.
Here are my numbers..

------------------------------------------
Build Type: Vinyl
Volume: 75423 liters
Chemistry: SWG
------------------------------------------
Latest Test Result Summary:
FC: 0.0 (44 minutes ago)
CC: 0.0 (44 minutes ago)
pH: 7.6 (44 minutes ago)
TA: 120 (44 minutes ago)
CH: 260 (44 minutes ago)
CYA: 60 (44 minutes ago)
SALT: 2400 (44 minutes ago)
TEMPERATURE: 83° (44 minutes ago)
CSI: -0.02 (44 minutes ago)
==========================================

Here are my ranges from my pool manual
Screenshot 2024-06-13 at 8.37.25 PM.png
 
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Great to see YOUR numbers. :goodjob: Now let's get to work:
1 - You need chlorine ASAP. Use liquid chlorine to increase the FC to about 5 ppm.
2 - Your salt level is a bit low. I would add about 600 ppm of salt to get you to at least 3,000.

The remainder of your numbers are quite good actually. Some may say your TA is a bit high, but since the pH is in a great place I wouldn't worry about it right now. In time, with future acid dosing, the TA should slowly fall anyways.

Back to the copper, let's see what happens after you add that chlorine. If you see dark stains start to appear, then let us know. If nothing changes, then your copper level is low enough that it's not a concern.

If your water is cloudy at all, or becomes cloudy in the next day or two, report back and let us know. If you have any questions, just ask.
 
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Great to see YOUR numbers. :goodjob: Now let's get to work:
1 - You need chlorine ASAP. Use liquid chlorine to increase the FC to about 5 ppm.
2 - Your salt level is a bit low. I would add about 600 ppm of salt to get you to at least 3,000.

The remainder of your numbers are quite good actually. Some may say your TA is a bit high, but since the pH is in a great place I wouldn't worry about it right now. In time, with future acid dosing, the TA should slowly fall anyways.

Back to the copper, let's see what happens after you add that chlorine. If you see dark stains start to appear, then let us know. If nothing changes, then your copper level is low enough that it's not a concern.

If your water is cloudy at all, or becomes cloudy in the next day or two, report back and let us know. If you have any questions, just ask.
Do i add chlorine today and salt tomorrow?
 
You can add both now.
Here are this evenings results.
Am I ok to turn on SWG? Or wait ?

==========================================
Rens Pool
------------------------------------------
Build Type: Vinyl
Volume: 75423 liters
Chemistry: SWG
------------------------------------------
Latest Test Result Summary:
FC: 5.2 (51 minutes ago)
CC: 1.0 (51 minutes ago)
pH: 8.0 (51 minutes ago)
TA: 101 (51 minutes ago)
CH: 300 (51 minutes ago)
CYA: 50 (51 minutes ago)
SALT: 3200 (51 minutes ago)
TEMPERATURE: 82° (51 minutes ago)
CSI: 0.30 (51 minutes ago)
==========================================
 

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Ok I’m adding chlorine recommended amount from pool math 10litres and salt in two 20kg bags
I’ll keep you posted
==========================================
Rens Pool
------------------------------------------
Build Type: Vinyl
Volume: 75423 liters
Chemistry: SWG
------------------------------------------
Latest Test Result Summary:
FC: 5.2 (51 minutes ago)
CC: 1.0 (51 minutes ago)
pH: 8.0 (51 minutes ago)
TA: 101 (51 minutes ago)
CH: 300 (51 minutes ago)
CYA: 50 (51 minutes ago)
SALT: 3200 (51 minutes ago)
TEMPERATURE: 82° (51 minutes ago)
CSI: 0.30 (51 minutes ago)
==========================================
 
I would go ahead and turn it on. Hows does the water look? The only thing that is a bit concerning to me is the CC of 1.0 as that means the chlorine you added is fighting something.

If your water is not crystal clear, I would recommend doing an OCLT to see if you have algae. Let us know and we can walk you through the steps.
 
I would go ahead and turn it on. Hows does the water look? The only thing that is a bit concerning to me is the CC of 1.0 as that means the chlorine you added is fighting something.

If your water is not crystal clear, I would recommend doing an OCLT to see if you have algae. Let us know and we can walk you through the steps.
The water is clear!
I tested free chlorine last night it was high ( an hour after I dumped 10L and 2 20kg bags of salt.
Chlorinator was off all night.
image.jpg
I would go ahead and turn it on. Hows does the water look? The only thing that is a bit concerning to me is the CC of 1.0 as that means the chlorine you added is fighting something.

If your water is not crystal clear, I would recommend doing an OCLT to see if you have algae. Let us know and we can walk you through the steps.
thanks @JJ_Tex . I tested before the sun went up (level was at 7 ppm) and again mid afternoon (still at 7ppm) and again about an hour ago (5ppm) (I added 10L of liquid chlorine last night and 2 x 20kg bags of salt last night). Chlorinator stayed off since last night .
Water looks clear.
Recommendations?
Thanks for quick reply!
Ren
 
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Water looks great! :goodjob:
Oops...here are my test results from earlier on. (around 5pm)


==========================================
Rens Pool
------------------------------------------
Build Type: Vinyl
Volume: 75423 liters
Chemistry: SWG
------------------------------------------
Latest Test Result Summary:
FC: 5.2 (51 minutes ago)
CC: 1.0 (51 minutes ago)
pH: 8.0 (51 minutes ago)
TA: 101 (51 minutes ago)
CH: 300 (51 minutes ago)
CYA: 50 (51 minutes ago)
SALT: 3200 (51 minutes ago)
TEMPERATURE: 82° (51 minutes ago)
CSI: 0.30 (51 minutes ago)
==========================================
 
here are my test results from earlier on. (around 5pm)
First I would lower the pH to about 7.2-7.4 with muriatic acid. A few minutes later I would add a little more liquid chlorine if you have some just to be safe and get the FC up to about 7 ppm. This might also help to eliminate the slightly elevated CC level that we need to watch.

The water looks great, but sometimes there are transparent organics we can't se that can disrupt our chemistry. Keep an eye out for any water changes. Also watch the CC level. With a little more chlorine and some sunlight tomorrow, hopefully the CC will drop to 0.5 or less. If you have ANY doubts about the quality of your water, do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test. It's a great tool.
 
About your testing:
1 - Double check your TA. Is that a typo (101)? TA goes in increments of 10, so it should be 90, 100, 110, etc.

2 - For FC testing, do the following: Use a 10 ml water sample size with just ONE generous scoop of powder. Mix/stir until clear and divide in half. Example: 20 drops to clear = an FC of 10. Easy stuff and should save you a little bit of reagents that way.
 
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