Measuring pH with K-2006C kit

[Krulligo]

I had a question about measuring pH using the kit and how chlorine/bromine levels affect accurate measurements. Can anyone comment on this?

Also, for the TA test, you first add 2 drops of thiosulfate presumably to neutralize chlorine/bromine so that you get an accurate reading. However, for the pH test, you do not add any chlorine/bromine neutralizer. Would it not be a good idea to add a couple drops of thiosulfate before you do your pH to get a more accurate reading?

 

[PoolStored]

If your FC is below 10, your pH test will be accurate. Only at levels above 10 is the pH test inaccurate. No need to neutralize pH below 10.

The thiosulfate does neutralize the chlorine, but it also changes the PH, which invalidates the test results. The PH reagent already contains a chlorine neutralizer and a buffer system to attempt to deal with this issue, but there is only so much chlorine you can neutralize before the results get messed up. Thus the 10/15 FC limits on the PH test. The Taylor PH test works up to an FC of 10, and is usable but reads high between FC 10 and 15. At higher FC levels it is useless.

 

[Krulligo]

If your FC is below 10, your pH test will be accurate. Only at levels above 10 is the pH test inaccurate. No need to neutralize pH below 10.

The thiosulfate does neutralize the chlorine, but it also changes the PH, which invalidates the test results. The PH reagent already contains a chlorine neutralizer and a buffer system to attempt to deal with this issue, but there is only so much chlorine you can neutralize before the results get messed up. Thus the 10/15 FC limits on the PH test. The Taylor PH test works up to an FC of 10, and is usable but reads high between FC 10 and 15. At higher FC levels it is useless.

Great thank you!