Mastertemp 400 Continuing Challenges

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spondell

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Jul 26, 2009
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Hi all. I know there have been threads on Mastertemp issues, particularly around the igniter and the magical 1 micro amp reading. I haven't been able to find a meter to read down to 1 micro amp so I haven't been able to do that. But, here's what is happening now. The fan comes on, the gas valve opens, the igniter heats up, and no flame happens. I have had intermittent problems in the past, paid for two unsuccessful tech visits (to buy parts that I didn't need), and am at wits end. If it lit and didn't stay lit, I could look at the ICM. But, all factors seem to be there to light the fire but it doesn't happen.

And the grandkids are coming next week! Help!
 
Has anyone checked your gas pressure at the gas valve with a manometer?

My WAG is you have a gas supply problem.

Where are you located?
 
What is the CFM of your gas meter?

We see a lot of Texas houses that were built with 250CFM gas meters that cannot properly run a 400 BTU heater.

Post pics of your has meter and any data plates on it. And post pics of your heater and gas connection.
 
You're right. It is a 250 CFM meter. We did have a 400 BTU unit here before that seemed to run ok. This one has been there for about 3 years and seemed to work until this year. In the spring, we seemed to have the problem of it starting up, lighting, and then going out. Through many ignitors and ICMs, the problem wasn't solved. I eventually just reset and cleaned every connection and it seemed to work for the few times we used it this summer. Now, I haven't got a single lighting (3 ignitors, 2 ICMs).

I'm heading out to get a manometer.
 

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Call your gas company and request an upgrade of your gas service. You need at least 400CFM if not more depending on what other gas appliances you also have.

You may also have some corrosion or moisture in your gas line in the sediment trap by the heater.

Is your heater pipe size adequate for its length...

Pentair MasterTemp Gas Pipe Sizing.jpg
 
Here is someone with the same problem that was resolved with a gas service upgrade...

Low Inlet Pressure to Hayward 400K natural gas heater

Hi All, Second thread this week :) Hayward 400K BTU heater, house/pool/heater built 2017/2018. Had trouble getting the gas heater to stay lit when we first moved in so took it apart to clean everything. Dust and dirt, but no other indications of issues, so put it back together and fired up...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
My Mastertemp 400 worked fine with only a 250CFH meter. However when also running my fire pit, the fire pit would definitely get sucked down when using the heater. I was also able to run my tankless water heater along with the heater and firepit. I am honestly not sure how it worked. I suppose I may have just been lucky. I had cranked the pressure up to the lowest maximum inlet pressure for all of my appliances, which I believe was 10.5". I'm sure that helped.

I did call for an upgrade, and they did increase the size of the meter for me at no charge. I noticed no change in my pool heater operation after the swap either. I thought I might see a faster warmup time, because the heater may not have been running at full capacity. But apparently it was.

--Jeff
 
Note that running a gas appliance with inadequate gas flow will cause the appliance to run lean, if it runs at all. This will cause less then rated BTU output by a heater.
 

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spondell said:
No manometers at HD. So, if it is being starved for gas, it seems that my only option short term is to crank the gas valve regulator open.
Click to expand...
Don't do that without a manometer to set the pressure with. Best case is you may damage an appliance. Worst case is you can blow up your home.

--Jeff
 
Turbo1Ton said:
Don't do that without a manometer to set the pressure with. Best case is you may damage an appliance. Worst case is you can blow up your home.

--Jeff
Click to expand...
Hi Jeff. I meant the regulator on the pool heater, not the main regulator. Do you see issues with that? I know it is not my first choice but may be a stop-gap.
 
spondell said:
Hi Jeff. I meant the regulator on the pool heater, not the main regulator. Do you see issues with that? I know it is not my first choice but may be a stop-gap.
Click to expand...
I did not see a regulator on your pool heater. Regardless, the same applies. You need to have the proper tools to measure the gas pressure so that you don't overpressure something.

--Jeff
 
Hi all,
Thanks for all of the advice. Got the manometer. I've got 8" WC on the inlet (statically) but it drops to zero when the gas valve opens. I now get the flame to light momentarily but it doesn't stay lit. Based on what y'all have said, it seems that I am starved for gas. Do I read that right?
 
spondell said:
Thanks ajw. An easy short term answer would be to change the current 3/4" valve to a full port valve. Would that make any significant difference?
Click to expand...

I am not sure what valve you mean but nothing will give you adequate gas supply without a meter upgrade.
 
ajw22 said:
I am not sure what valve you mean but nothing will give you adequate gas supply without a meter upgrade.
Click to expand...
Understood. That will take a little time. In the meantime, do you think that the pressure drop across the shutoff valve could also have a small effect. If I could eliminate at least that restriction, would it make any difference? I know, I'm reaching. The grandkids are boarding the plane!
 

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