Mark Burke

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maburke2

New member
Jul 24, 2024
4
Florida
First thanks having me. My name is Mark Burke and I am building my first Fiberglass pool. I purchase the Pentair Intelli Center package for automation which came with the IC40 Salt generator, two actuators, Internet connection modules, air sensor, water sensor, I also purchase the Cartridge Filter, sacrificial Zinc anode, GFCI outlet, GFCI 20Amp 2 pole siemens breaker and will start my installation this weekend.
 
Question
What is Pentair best practice for the control panel circuit breaker? 110 volts or 240 volts. I have my intelliCenter connected to a 240 volt 20 Amp double pool breaker. none GFCI. My lights three Jandy (two pool and 1 spa) lights are connected to a 15 Amp GFCI and my two spill a way water flows ahs LEDs (12 Volts) and there are also on a separate 15 Amp single pole GFCI and will be control by relays.
Also, I am in Clermont Florida and I add a heater which came with my SPA (a HydroMax) or HeatMAX. This is for the SPA only it is two hot in Florida. this also used 240volts/50 Amps. So I put this on a 50Amp double pole GFCI breaker. This weekend I will be wiring the air sensor and the water temperature sensor. When things are working from that point on I will install the networking.
Question again,
This is my first pool and first time getting this involve. Programming is going to be a bit of a stumbling block. Moving arund the programming should not be a problem because this is my lively hood. However, the different variables is where i might need help.
My Pool is 22000 gallon and the SPA is about 6000 gallons. So, how much to set for the flow per gallons on the pump is where I am stuck. Help, What would be your recommendation with the information? Thanks for all of your help.
 
maburke2 said:
how much to set for the flow per gallons on the pump is where I am stuck.
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Mark,

Why do you care about GPM???

My guess is that you believe the old myth about X water turnovers per day being required to 'prevent' algae.. Well, it is just not true..

Chemicals are what keeps your pool clear and algae free. The filter is just there to capture the junk that falls into your pool each day and floats.

I would suggest that you use RPM, as it just makes the most sense, for most people..

If you have a VS pump, you should run the pump at the slowest speed that will get the job done. As an example.. If you have a SWCG, the slowest speed you ever want to run is the speed that keeps your SWCG's flow switch closed.. It does not matter how many GPM that is... If you want to run a waterfall, it does not matter the GPM as long as the waterfall looks like you want it to look. Etc..

Run your pump for a reason.. To make chlorine, to run a waterfall, to run the spa... but not because of some myth... :mrgreen:

I run my pump 24/7, mostly at 1200 RPM as I like to make a little chlorine all the time and skim all the time.. I also like the look of my pool when there is a little motion to the water. I can do this for less than $20 bucks a month... I have no heater, so I can run a pretty low RPM.. If you have a heater you will have to run 1500 to 1800 RPM... You might want to think about installing a heater by-pass, if you don't have one already.. 90% of the time your heater will not be needed or running.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Jimrahbe said:
Mark,

Welcome to TFP... :shark:

Sounds to me like the perfect set up..

There is no harm in installing the Zinc Anode, but it is not really needed...

Thanks,

Jim R.
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Jim,

Can you elaborate on this? Our pool came with one (now 4 years old) and I’ve been curious as to when it needs to be changed out, if ever.

Not opposed to removing it all together.
 
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