managing chemicals with a new liner and new water

[poolcrazed]

Hello, Our liner is approx 40 years old (!) and we are having it replaced (though holding up still remarkably well!) this week. We are in the Northeast so it's also pool closing time.
Since we are getting fresh water from the city fire hydrant (flushed first), once I add stabilizer and balance it, do you think I still need to shock it? I'm worried about high chlorine levels on a brand new liner. What do you recommend I aim for on the chlorine level before I close it up? Also is there any reason to not close it up very soon after getting it installed? Was planning to cover it within a week or less.
And any other advice around this project would be appreciated. THANK YOU!

 

[ajw22]

No reason to shock clean fresh water.

I would aim for half SLAM level FC for your CYA level at closing.

Consider using Polyquat60 at closing....

Algaecide - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[duraleigh]

In addition, I suggest you first post a full set of test results for TFP to look at.

Get an iron test at the pool store and post that, too

 

[poolcrazed]

No reason to shock clean fresh water.

I would aim for half SLAM level FC for your CYA level at closing.

Consider using Polyquat60 at closing....

Algaecide - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Thank you. I usually just balance perfectly and don't use algaecide and close around 10ppm. I have not used any algaecide all summer (or last). I read it isn't necessary is balanced but perhaps you feel over the winter, it's better to use it?

 

[poolcrazed]

In addition, I suggest you first post a full set of test results for TFP to look at.

Get an iron test at the pool store and post that, too

Ok, thank you. I will do that.
The people putting in the liner mentioned they throw in iron out automatically and I said I didn't want it. The hydrant will be flushed beforehand that morning but I will test the iron content and post all my results. Thank you!

 

[ajw22]

Thank you. I usually just balance perfectly and don't use algaecide and close around 10ppm. I have not used any algaecide all summer (or last). I read it isn't necessary is balanced but perhaps you feel over the winter, it's better to use it?

Depends on your environment.

PQ60 is an insurance policy on trying to get an algae free opening. If your experience is you open algae free then you can skip it.

 

[duraleigh]

The hydrant will be flushed beforehand that morning but I will test the iron content and post all my results. Thank you!

The iron in THAT (fire hose) fill water will be a one-time deal and reasonably simple to get out.

The test that you need will be from your permanent source of fill water.........not the fire hose.t

 

[poolcrazed]

The iron in THAT (fire hose) fill water will be a one-time deal and reasonably simple to get out.

The test that you need will be from your permanent source of fill water.........not the fire hose.t

We will be filling the entire pool from that hose and it's the same water I will use to top it off throughout the season.
I will certainly keep a watch on it.

 

[duraleigh]

Are you filling from a fire hydrant or you domestic water? Confusing.

 

[poolcrazed]

Are you filling from a fire hydrant or you domestic water? Confusing.

It's a fire hydrant that has drinking level water coming through it. I could drink it the city water engineer said. And I should for the price!

 

[duraleigh]

What will you use for refills after the pool is full from the fire hydrant......yout domestic water, right?

If so, that's the water you need to test.

 

[poolcrazed]

Are you filling from a fire hydrant or you domestic water? Confusing.

Hello,
Got the liner in! That went smoothly BUT the water in the deep end looked greyish. Lots of particulates fell to bottom and stuck to the sides, I vacuumed up and it's looking better. The pool test just tested zero for copper and iron, though. The hydrant was flushed before we filled, but obviously not long enough, or our water just has more junk in it than they think. He said we could drink this water.
Even after I vacuumed early this morning, I can see dark particulate on the bottom still, so it's still falling out. I will keep vacuuming. I don't need to backwash after each of these vacuums, do I?
Here's what it looks like (not as good as the city water guy predicted it would be)
My numbers from city water with no adjustment
ph 8
CHL 1.5
ALK 150
CAL 125


AGWAYS numbers
No iron
No copper
CYA 2
ALK 166
HARDNESS 129
PH 8
Combined CHL .32
TOTAL CHL 2.61
FC 2.29

What do you think about adding calcium and should I put in the CYA now or in the spring. I want to do whatever is best for the liner.
THANKS for your help.

 

[poolcrazed]

And perhaps I better ask in what order shall I balance things? stabilizer then re-check ALK and ph?

 

[poolcrazed]

Are you filling from a fire hydrant or you domestic water? Confusing.

Hello,
Got the liner in! That went smoothly BUT the water in the deep end looked greyish. Lots of particulates fell to bottom and stuck to the sides, I vacuumed up and it's looking better but not perfect yet. Water looks clear but still vacuuming. The pool test just tested zero for copper and iron, though. The hydrant was flushed before we filled, but obviously not long enough, or our water just has more junk in it than they think. He said we could drink this water.
My numbers from city water with no adjustment
ph 8
CHL 1.5
ALK 150
CAL 125


AGWAYS numbers
No iron
No copper
CYA 2
ALK 166
HARDNESS 129
PH 8
Combined CHL .32
TOTAL CHL 2.61
FC 2.29

What do you think about adding calcium and should I assume I put in the CYA now?
THANKS for your help.

 

[ajw22]

How much CH do you want to add?

Yes, add your dry stabilizer using the sock method now.

 

[poolcrazed]

I'm all set on the chlorine plan. Looking for guidance on the calcium given there seem to be conflicting views.

 

[ajw22]

Looking for guidance on the calcium given there seem to be conflicting views.

No conflicting views. It depends what type of vinyl was used in your liner. Few know and know if calcium is required.

I doubt you know the type of vinyl used in your 30 year old liner.

Modern vinyl materials do not require calcium.

Some vinyl manufacturers require it anyway so you can follow the manufacturers recommendations.

So I ask again - How much CH do you want to add?

Calcium Hardness - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[poolcrazed]

That's exactly my question. How much to add. I already called the "manufacturer"- that is the production company. They had no idea if the vinyl needed calcium or not. I did not get the vinyl manufacturer but it sounds like that wouldn't have necessarily helped. I do not have a heater. 200ppm? thanks.

 

[ajw22]

200-250ppm of CH is all you might need.

If the production company does not specify a calcium requirement then the liner does not need any. If you want to add some it will not hurt anything, just unnecessary.