Losing head on Water Slide

[amentowasso]

Hey everyone. Long time lurker, but finally decided to registered due to having my own issue. So back in June, we purchased and installed a fiberglass pool with a Salt Water system, water slide, water feature, etc.

The first week, everything worked great. Since then, it's gotten to where we have to clean the filter every 2 days or else the flow to the water slide can't generate the head needed for flow up and down the slide.

Everything else seems to work fine, the pressure on the filter housing is less than 10 psi on medium flow, but if I run the pump on low speed it will trip an alarm for the chlorinator. If I pull and clean the filter, the slide will work fine again for 1-2 days, then flow will stop. It's currently dry as a bone even on high speed.

What is completely clear and flow through the jets and return seem to be good. Builder is recommending an extensive water test that checks for bio films and to get a good cartridge cleaner.

We had a chlorine water pool at our last home for 14 years, but this is our first salt water system and want to ensure that we are doing the best for it. I'm likely leaving out a bunch of information as far as pump sizing and such, but if you can toss out some questions I can report back tonight once home from work.

 

[ajw22]

What is the "Clorox Chemical System"?

What test kit do you have?

Does you pool pass the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test? If not, you have algae clogging your filter and need to follow the SLAM Process

 

[amentowasso]

What is the "Clorox Chemical System"?

What test kit do you have?

Does you pool pass the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test? If not, you have algae clogging your filter and need to follow the SLAM Process

Our pool builder recommended the Clorox chemicals from Lowes, and I have been using the accompanying app to test the litmus strips for testing.

Attached is my test from last night. I have only added 1 lb of shock since opening the pool in June so unsure why Chlorine is testing so high. I added the chemicals requested and will retest today.

I will look into the links you provided.

 

[1poolman1]

Hey everyone. Long time lurker, but finally decided to registered due to having my own issue. So back in June, we purchased and installed a fiberglass pool with a Salt Water system, water slide, water feature, etc.

The first week, everything worked great. Since then, it's gotten to where we have to clean the filter every 2 days or else the flow to the water slide can't generate the head needed for flow up and down the slide.

Everything else seems to work fine, the pressure on the filter housing is less than 10 psi on medium flow, but if I run the pump on low speed it will trip an alarm for the chlorinator. If I pull and clean the filter, the slide will work fine again for 1-2 days, then flow will stop. It's currently dry as a bone even on high speed.

What is completely clear and flow through the jets and return seem to be good. Builder is recommending an extensive water test that checks for bio films and to get a good cartridge cleaner.

We had a chlorine water pool at our last home for 14 years, but this is our first salt water system and want to ensure that we are doing the best for it. I'm likely leaving out a bunch of information as far as pump sizing and such, but if you can toss out some questions I can report back tonight once home from work.

You have an SWG and and are adding chlorine? What type of valve sends water to the slide? What pump do you have? Why only a tiny 150 sq. ft. filter? At the very least, add a second identical one in parallel to the system.

No CYA, pH of 6.8, TA 40? If those are close to accurate, you need to get your water under control before worrying about the slide.

With a pH and TA that low the water can be very damaging to the equipment, not to mention very uncomfortable on the skin. Is there a light in the pool or any "chrome" fittings or stainless-steel screws on fittings? They will become discolored if you don't raise those parameters.

 

[ajw22]

You cannot properly manage your water chemistry using test strips. We recommend you get the Taylor K-2006C or TFT Test Kits

Any Clorox, or other, chemicals that say "Blue" are adding copper to your pool which will accumulate and eventually turn blonde hair green and stain your pool.

Read about TFP methods and decide if you want to change your ways...

Pool Care Basics Archives

Your one-stop shop for all things TFP to include: ABCs of Water Chemistry, Recommended Chemicals/Levels, Test Kits, Troubleshooting, and much more!

www.troublefreepool.com

Algae Archives

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[amentowasso]

You have an SWG and and are adding chlorine? What type of valve sends water to the slide? What pump do you have? Why only a tiny 150 sq. ft. filter? At the very least, add a second identical one in parallel to the system.

No CYA, pH of 6.8, TA 40? If those are close to accurate, you need to get your water under control before worrying about the slide.

With a pH and TA that low the water can be very damaging to the equipment, not to mention very uncomfortable on the skin. Is there a light in the pool or any "chrome" fittings or stainless-steel screws on fittings? They will become discolored if you don't raise those parameters.

I am likely not utilizing the proper terminology, the entire setup is new to me, please see attached for pictures. I did find that it is a C200S filter not a 150.

And yes, I can take back to back measurements with the test strips and get different vastly different readings, so I am looking at new ways to manage and have been looking at the TF-Pro kit.

 

[ajw22]

Rotate your SWG so the hump is down.

What model pump do you have?

Any automation controls?

 

[cwswifty]

Our pool builder recommended the Clorox chemicals from Lowes, and I have been using the accompanying app to test the litmus strips for testing.

Attached is my test from last night. I have only added 1 lb of shock since opening the pool in June so unsure why Chlorine is testing so high. I added the chemicals requested and will retest today.

I will look into the links you provided.

If you've been lurking here at all you'd know that test strips are not recommended. Get a good test kit and perform an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test.
Test Kits Compared

 

[amentowasso]

Rotate your SWG so the hump is down.

What model pump do you have?

Any automation controls?

Can you elaborate on the "hump?"

Didn't think to take pics of the pump, I'll report back.

Automation is handled by the Hayward OmniLogic.

 

[1poolman1]

I am likely not utilizing the proper terminology, the entire setup is new to me, please see attached for pictures. I did find that it is a C200S filter not a 150.

And yes, I can take back to back measurements with the test strips and get different vastly different readings, so I am looking at new ways to manage and have been looking at the TF-Pro kit. View attachment 602363View attachment 602364View attachment 602365View attachment 602366View attachment 602367

Can't tell exactly where the water is going based on that picture with the two valves. If the valve on the left is for the slide and the other one is pool/spa, you will not get much water to the slide with then in that position. Since its easier to just go to the pool and spa, the water will flow that way. When the slide is in use, at the very least the port to the spa should close completely.

 

[amentowasso]

Can't tell exactly where the water is going based on that picture with the two valves. If the valve on the left is for the slide and the other one is pool/spa, you will not get much water to the slide with then in that position. Since its easier to just go to the pool and spa, the water will flow that way. When the slide is in use, at the very least the port to the spa should close completely.

The left actuator is for the pool, the right one is for a water feature that is activated independently. I'll try to get more pictures of the overall system and report back.

 

[1poolman1]

Rotate your SWG so the hump is down.

What model pump do you have?

Any automation controls?

Those new Hayward cells are "straight through" design and don't need to be changed/rotated like the original "GoldLine" design with the "hump" when used with a VSP.
GoldLine made them with the hump in order to cause a bit of turbulence to mix the chlorine better according to the first rep that I ever spoke with about them.

 

[ajw22]

Those new Hayward cells are "straight through" design and don't need to be changed/rotated like the original "GoldLine" design with the "hump" when used with a VSP.
GoldLine made them with the hump in order to cause a bit of turbulence to mix the chlorine better according to the first rep that I ever spoke with about them.

Thanks for that explanation. I have never handled one of the new cells to see that.

 

[amentowasso]

Can't tell exactly where the water is going based on that picture with the two valves. If the valve on the left is for the slide and the other one is pool/spa, you will not get much water to the slide with then in that position. Since its easier to just go to the pool and spa, the water will flow that way. When the slide is in use, at the very least the port to the spa should close completely.

Ok, I ran home at lunch and got some more photos. See below for the setup.

Pump is an SP32900vsp, TriStar VS 900 1.85hp pump
HDF400 Heater
Hayward SwimClear C200S Filter
SWG is a TurboCell TCellS340

The single pipe actuator goes to the slide, the one on the Y is for the water fountains to the left of the pool. The valve coming off the pump is a manual.

Hope this helps!