Looking to upgrade to Intellicenter and SWG,

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Thanks again. I've been reading all the manuals. It's hard to read and understand the user manuals without the visual input of the actual panel. I think there's a demo site that allows user input. Do you think visiting that site would be worthwhile? -MR
 
mriddell said:
Thanks again. I've been reading all the manuals. It's hard to read and understand the user manuals without the visual input of the actual panel. I think there's a demo site that allows user input. Do you think visiting that site would be worthwhile? -MR
Click to expand...
No.

Get you hands on the panel and begin working with your configuration. If you figure out it needs to be wired differently it can be changed.
 
I got the panel loaded up today. Haven't been able to schedule the electrician to change the old sub panel out. Obviously missing the wiring external to the panel. Question: for the neutral pole on the 220V breakers, would I add the neutral coming back from the pump, Polaris, lights, etc? Could the neutral 220s coming to the load center be simply placed on the neutral bar? The pigtails from the gfci breakers are on the neutral bar.

I also doubled up on the 12V GFCI breaker that will run the lights, adding the receptible to the mix. I had all GFCIs, and understand they were more expensive and might not have added anything, but... anyways.. Hope that won't cause problems.. Any major issues? The SWG is wired for 220, the panel transformer is 120. I have not capped the yellow wire from the transformer as of yet, but assume I should. Also, would you send me your name and address?

Mal Riddell
662-809-1453
 

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Any neutrals need to connect to its GFCI CB and not go to the neutral bar.

A 220V circuit usually does not have a neutral, it has two hots.
 
Making some progress. The intellicenter installed yesterday. The panel is connected to the internet, performed an OTA update to the firmware, but can't get it to register the account. Pentair support also unable. I suspect the connection is slow. The connection at the panel confirms 100 speed and activity lights active. Would a temporary direct connection help? I could run a CAT5 cable to the box and connect directly. Would I be able to register then?

Also, have set up 3-4 pump circuits. If I wanted a base speed to run 24/7, would I schedule it or set the egg timer to 23h 59m? Currently has an egg timer of 12h. Started by touching the pool icon on the home page.
 

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Your panel is connected to the Internet.

You have the 900mhz wireless link and do not use WiFi. Ignore all the WiFi stuff on the screens.
 
mriddell said:
Do you think it's worth running a CAT5 cable out closer to see if we can get a better connection?
Click to expand...

No. If your panel passes the Internet Connection Test you are good.

What do you get when you do Add New Account at the outdoor panel?

Put in your email, name, and password and press the check on the upper right. See if it asks for anything else. Give it the minimum they require.

Use a simple email name and password with only letters and numbers, no special characters. Don't bother with your address, just put in your zip code to get the weather.

1703004274762-png.545172
 
OK. I'll take the extra info out. According to support, they require 8 characters, Upper case, lower case, number, and spec character. Tried without a spec character, booted me. Should I run the pool on schedule or egg timer for 24/7? I assume schedule. Thanks as always!
 

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Thought so regarding the schedule.

So.. Just got off the phone with Brandon from Pentair. As you might be aware, they are migrating from the Intellicenter2 app to Pentair Home. This migration has caused issues recently due to migration of existing accounts. He indicated that new accounts are getting lost. This has only recently become an issue on the present firmware. Again, the programmers feel it is related to the ongoing migration.

Brandon indicated that the documentation is being worked on at the present time.

Here is how it was done:
1. Download Pentair Home
2. Open app and insert email and password in the app. 8 characters, Cap, lower case, number and at least one spec character.
3. At the panel, Kill Intellicenter of >1 minute.
4. Check to see that internet is present.
5. Go to the Portal and enter once again: Add new account... even though you just established an account.
6. Enter the email and PW you established in the app. Worked like a charm.

The process continues! Thanks again. -Mal
 
mriddell said:
Thought so regarding the schedule.

So.. Just got off the phone with Brandon from Pentair. As you might be aware, they are migrating from the Intellicenter2 app to Pentair Home. This migration has caused issues recently due to migration of existing accounts. He indicated that new accounts are getting lost. This has only recently become an issue on the present firmware. Again, the programmers feel it is related to the ongoing migration.

Brandon indicated that the documentation is being worked on at the present time.

Here is how it was done:
1. Download Pentair Home
2. Open app and insert email and password in the app. 8 characters, Cap, lower case, number and at least one spec character.
3. At the panel, Kill Intellicenter of >1 minute.
4. Check to see that internet is present.
5. Go to the Portal and enter once again: Add new account... even though you just established an account.
6. Enter the email and PW you established in the app. Worked like a charm.

The process continues! Thanks again. -Mal
Click to expand...
Thanks for that update. So basically Pentair server changes killed the Add Account function on the OCP and new users now need to register through the Pentair Home APP.

Glad you got it online and now move on with your setup.
 
That appears to be the current issue at least. It has been observed recently with the new and ongoing migration of accounts to the new app. Got on the Intellicenter2 site. Guess I need only a few speeds. I assume the AUX circuits will show as features once circuits are assigned. Correct?
 
Well, the project is progressing. Pump and SWG up and running. The pool sweep is wired to the load side of Aux1, as above. Heater to Line side, Aux1 also. I assume I should assign that circuit as master cleaner. Correct?

The system sees the MasterTemp. When I call for heat at either the spa or pool, the heat is showing on, but the heater does not fire. Running pump at 2600 RPM at the time. Do I need to create a circuit for the heater? I don't see a place to link a function to the heater. I'm missing something I think. Connected via 485. When I check the heater screen, it is blank. Upon turning on, I see that it is controlled by 3-wire. The display then goes off.
 
mriddell said:
Well, the project is progressing. Pump and SWG up and running. The pool sweep is wired to the load side of Aux1, as above. Heater to Line side, Aux1 also. I assume I should assign that circuit as master cleaner. Correct?
Click to expand...

Correct, booster pump circuit should be set as Master Cleaner.

Note that the Master Cleaner will have a 5 minute delay before it turns on. If you don't remember that you will think something is broken. I put a label on the panel saying CLEANER HAS 5 MINUTE DELAY BEFORE TURNING ON.

mriddell said:
The system sees the MasterTemp. When I call for heat at either the spa or pool, the heat is showing on, but the heater does not fire. Running pump at 2600 RPM at the time. Do I need to create a circuit for the heater? I don't see a place to link a function to the heater. I'm missing something I think. Connected via 485. When I check the heater screen, it is blank. Upon turning on, I see that it is controlled by 3-wire. The display then goes off.
Click to expand...

Is the MasterTemp connected to continuous power and not the LOAD side of a relay?

How do you know the system sees the MasterTemp?

Have you read the heater section in Pentair Automation Systems - Further Reading ?

Show me this screen...

Pentair_IntelliCenter_Connected_Heater_Configuration.jpg
 
I have read the Automation Systems - Further Reading article. I did confirm the LINE side connection of the MasterTemp at AUX1 (second from left relay.) It is the far left conduit in the box. See other pics. I think I am set up correctly based upon reading and your pics. May be that I just don't understand what to expect! Is there any listing anywhere of the available circuits and what to expect with each? For example, what to expect with the Master Cleaner... That one is minor, as it is a Polaris boost pump that I can use with a Polaris 280. That was included with the pool. I actually use an electric robot as needed, and the boost pump/Polaris will be a backup.

Side note. My salt level yesterday after initial salt loading was 2800 as measured by the Taylor kit. Stable today, again 2800. The salt cell indicates 3600 and is happily running in the green. Would you add further salt or leave it alone? BTW, my cell ran 12 hrs last night. FC went from 4.0 yesterday pm when I started the cell to 6.5 this am. Previous CYA was 40-50, and I have added CYA to increase to TFP recommended levels for SWG. I've not rechecked however. Thinking I will run 12 hrs again today and see how the FC responds. Suspect I'll be dialing it back.
 

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Yes, I've seen and downloaded the three manuals. I do see the listing of circuit names, but not an explanation of them. I had lowered the temp setting prior to the pic today, as I did not want heat to come on. See the pic now. I have the pump up to 2600 RPM, app indicates 50 GPM, so above the 40 in the manual. The flame on the screen is flickering, but I have not heard the flame come on. The heat is "Scheduled". Are you familiar with that term? Also, the heater screen is off (as expected). When a button is touched, it indicates heater is off. Indicates three wire control. Touching temps indicates max temps for both pool and spa.
 

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