Leslies Fresh N Clear Oxidizing Shock

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NYAVGUY

Well-known member
Jul 14, 2014
58
New York
Hi, I started reading this forum two years ago and have been following most of the TFP advice except for this. I have been using Leslies Fresh n Clear for a couple of years as a once a week shock. With the TF-100 kit I have I always have 0 CC on Saturday morning, but usually .5 - 1 on Sunday evening after the normal weekend bathing load with the kids and all their sunblock. Instead of SLAMing, I just put Fresh n Clear in to address that.

Is it the opinion of this forum that I should shock the pool (SLAM) every Sunday evening to remove the CC? Can I just superchlorinate using my SWG from Sunday night to Monday night? Should normal operation of my pool with FC around 4-5 remove CC by itself.

I also use Natural Chemistry Pool Perfect + Phosfree on Sunday night (also not recommended by TFP)
 
TFP Method - Alterations to reduce time, but spend a little more $$

Hi,

I have been reading this forum using it for advise for about two years. I plan to start contributing now with some of my own experiences and this will be my first post.

I have been following the TFP method with some exceptions and will explain why below. I would like to get feedback on whether I am wrong, or whether there can be TFP method that requires less time, but allows for a little more chemical budget (still a lot cheaper than a PG).

I switched over to a SWG last year and had issues all summer with PH rise, which I believe was due to a higher TA than recommended for SWG.

TL:DR, I use Leslies Fresh n Clear, Dry Acid, Liquid Stabilizer, and Natural Chemistry Pool Perfect + Phos free in addition to TFP Recommendations. I spend a little more on chemicals to reduce my need to test often and go through a SLAM to remove CC.

1. I used Dry Acid to lower it as I am still not comfortable handling Muriatic Acid and had some already from prior to the upgrade. I know this is not good for the SWG, but is it bad enough that I should figure out how to safely use and store Muriatic acid?

2. I use Leslie's Fresh n Clear weekly on Sunday evenings to get rid of CC after the normal weekend load of kids and sun block. The TFP alternative to this is to SLAM the pool every week (time consuming). Typically my CC is 0 on Saturday morning and .5 - 1 Sunday evening. I run my pump extra time on Saturdays and Sundays, but don't turn up the SWG. I also think this helps keep the PH down based on another discussion I found in the past (can't find link now)

3. I use Natural Chemistry Pool Perfect + Phos free ever since I had an algea problem a couple years ago. Since using this I have had no issues both during the year, and also during spring opening (always have phosphates < 100 before closing). TFP doesn't believe this is necessary, but Pentair does reccomend Phosphate control with their SWG

4. I always turn of my SWG prior to adding any chemicals to the skimmer (in Pentair Manual, but not detailed in instructions on TFP). Dry Acid in skimmer sock, Liquid Stabilizer (I prefer this for quicker results), phosfree.

5. I do a full test every Saturday morning and Chlorine & PH Sunday evening, I have the SWG level and pump run time figured out pretty well and adjust up when temp is above 90 degrees (I wish the Pentair Easytouch could adjust pump run time or SWG based on pool and/or outdoor temp....IFTTT).

6. The most expensive part of my pool is my new Vinyl Liner and Fiberglass steps. Should I not trust the recommendations here over TFP?

My current test results are (from weekend):
Saturday Morning:
CL - 2-3
PH - 7.5-7.6
FC - 4
CC - 0
CH - 275 (fiberglass steps)
TA - 80
CYA - 60 (added 10oz of stabilizer, but don't plan to go above 70)

Sunday Evening:
CL - 4
PH - 7.6
FC - 5.5
CC - .5
Added my weekly Fresh n Clear & pool perfect + phosfree
 
Generally what one should do if expecting heavy use is bump the FC up either before and/or after the heavy use. This does not mean you have to follow the SLAM process and I would not bump up the SWG.

So, you are effectively doing what we would suggest, although I would recommend just using bleach for the FC bump instead of the powder.

I would also stop wasting money on the Pool Perfect and Phosfree
 
Re: TFP Method - Alterations to reduce time, but spend a little more $$

NYAVGUY said:
Hi,

1. I used Dry Acid to lower it as I am still not comfortable handling Muriatic Acid and had some already from prior to the upgrade. I know this is not good for the SWG, but is it bad enough that I should figure out how to safely use and store Muriatic acid?
Click to expand...

Switch to muriatic acid, sulfates are bad for the SWG (will shorten life time) and bad for anything metallic that may be near the pool. Muriatic acid, when used appropriately, is completely safe. The most you need is just a simple form of eye/splash protection. Stay up wind of the bottle and pour slowly. It's really not that hard.

NYAVGUY said:
2. I use Leslie's Fresh n Clear weekly on Sunday evenings to get rid of CC after the normal weekend load of kids and sun block. The TFP alternative to this is to SLAM the pool every week (time consuming). Typically my CC is 0 on Saturday morning and .5 - 1 Sunday evening. I run my pump extra time on Saturdays and Sundays, but don't turn up the SWG. I also think this helps keep the PH down based on another discussion I found in the past (can't find link now)
Click to expand...

MPS is unnecessary in a properly chlorinated, outdoor swimming pool. If you follow the FC/CYA ratio guidelines, the CCs will go away on their own, no need for additional oxidizer. MPS also adds sulfates to your pool (see previous answer) AND it will cause your FC measurements on the DPD-FAS test to be off. If Sunday evening comes around and the CC's are little elevated, then simply bump up your FC with bleach, no need to SLAM. Even a CC test of 1.5ppm is not all that bad, a little bump with bleach will more than handle it.


NYAVGUY said:
3. I use Natural Chemistry Pool Perfect + Phos free ever since I had an algea problem a couple years ago. Since using this I have had no issues both during the year, and also during spring opening (always have phosphates < 100 before closing). TFP doesn't believe this is necessary, but Pentair does reccomend Phosphate control with their SWG
Click to expand...

I do phosphate control as well. I would not use the Leslie's junk though, it's like the light-beer of phosphate removers. I use SeaKlear Professional grade Phosphate Remover (treat's up to 9000ppb PO4 in 10,000 gallons with one quart). The leslie's stuff will have cheap clarifiers in it and a weaker concentration of the phosphate remover. If your sand filter has trouble clearing the phosphate cloudiness, simply add a little DE to it to act as a clarifier. Polymeric clarifiers are rarely needed.


NYAVGUY said:
4. I always turn of my SWG prior to adding any chemicals to the skimmer (in Pentair Manual, but not detailed in instructions on TFP). Dry Acid in skimmer sock, Liquid Stabilizer (I prefer this for quicker results), phosfree.
Click to expand...

Chemicals should NEVER be added to the skimmer. Pour liquid chemicals in front of a fast moving deep-end return. For dry chemicals, dissolve first in a 5 gallon bucket and either broadcast and brush or pour in front of a return a brush. Liquid stabilizer use is up to you - it's more expensive and you get less of it than granular.


NYAVGUY said:
5. I do a full test every Saturday morning and Chlorine & PH Sunday evening, I have the SWG level and pump run time figured out pretty well and adjust up when temp is above 90 degrees (I wish the Pentair Easytouch could adjust pump run time or SWG based on pool and/or outdoor temp....IFTTT).
Click to expand...

Your testing routine and schedule is completely up to you. As long as you know what you're putting in your pool and what it will do, test as you need to.

NYAVGUY said:
6. The most expensive part of my pool is my new Vinyl Liner and Fiberglass steps. Should I not trust the recommendations here over TFP?
Click to expand...

You need to follow the advice you are most comfortable with. If the TFP Recommended levels and chemical additions don't feel right to you, then by all means follow someone else advice. TFP has helped tens of thousands of pool owners take control and have trouble free pools....I'm not sure any other organization can match that. But, at the end of the day, it's up to you. Just remember that TFP's advice does not "play well with others" - if you're going to follow other advice, then I wouldn't expect TFP'ers to help you figure out how to make that work. TFPC is a tested and proven method based on science, not old-wives tales therefore it has no need to conform to the opinions of others.
 
To follow up on Matt's comment: To quote Dave, Site Owner of TFP:
Throughout TFP, you will read that we suggest certain levels that good science and practical experience has taught us fall within safe ranges.

Further reading of posts here will draw you to the inescapable conclusion that these guidelines work.......in thousands and thousands of pools worldwide.

You may or may not choose to use these methods and guidelines or you may use some and not others. Our goal is to teach you what has been proven time and time again and then let you use that information to your benefit.
Click to expand...

Test & treat you r pool how you feel comfortable, but understand you are trying to mix pool store advice and TFPC advice. It won't work!
 
Somehow the title of my thread got changed?

So if I have combined Chloramines of .5 and keep my FC above 5.0 (currently at 6.5), that should get rid of the combined chloramines (currently at .5). My CYA is currently between 60-70.

I have an IC40 cell and less than 20k and have accidentally brought my FC up to 16 in one day by leaving it on too high. I had it set at 40% and just upped it to 50% to try and keep the chlorine levels constantly a little higher. On weekends I just run the pump more since there is no way to automate the SWG levels.
 

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NYAVGUY said:
Actually, per Poolmath, with a CYA of 65, I should keep my FC between 8-10. My only concern with that is the long term effect on the vinyl liner. So many decisions....
Click to expand...
There is no CYA 65, always round up to 70.

There is no additional effect n the liner. CYA moderates the harshness of the chlorine. FC 8 with 70 CYA is easier on the liner than FC 1 and no CYA.
 
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