Leave up and winterize a Coleman/Bestway AGP in midwest

rj2222

Well-known member
Jun 11, 2012
321
Michigan
I've always torn down and stored my Intex or now Coleman (Bestway) AGPs in the past, but I see so many people here saying they just winterize, so think I'm going to go that route starting this year. Found this blog post on here

I have a few questions
1) Does that blog cover everything?
2) Air pillows, good to get or another thing pool supplies stores sell just to make a buck?
3) Are winter pool covers different than the solid pool covers that come including with pools? I have one from my old Intex that's the same size as the Coleman, so wondering if that will work or if I need a special winter cover.
4) Anyone had good results with the "winter closing kit" options you see advertised all the time? The ease of one box with everything I need and no headache is very appealing :)

Thanks for the help and feedback.
 
Does that blog cover everything?
Some pools/locations might have something unique, but that page covers most of it.

2) Air pillows, good to get or another thing pool supplies stores sell just to make a buck?
Many owners like to use one. Helps to prop-up the cover a bit to encourage water run off.

3) Are winter pool covers different than the solid pool covers that come including with pools? I have one from my old Intex that's the same size as the Coleman, so wondering if that will work or if I need a special winter cover.
Not quite sure. Others may have a thought, and it might depend on the manufacture.

4) Anyone had good results with the "winter closing kit" options you see advertised all the time? The ease of one box with everything I need and no headache is very appealing
Many of those have items you don't need or want to use (i.e. copper algaecides, "shock" packets, etc. Best to just do pre-SLAM on your own, disconnect everything, and cover(if desired).
 
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1) Does that blog cover everything?
It covers the basics, yes. Fire off any additional questions specific to your setup and we'd be happy to help. :)


2) Air pillows, good to get or another thing pool supplies stores sell just to make a buck?
Air pillows are great until they pop. In my experience people use them for the first X years until they get sick of them popping. They go the next year without them and the price of beer remains unchanged, so they are forever non-pillow people after that.
Are winter pool covers different than the solid pool covers that come including with pools? I have one from my old Intex that's the same size as the Coleman, so wondering if that will work or if I need a special winter cover.
Winter covers for above grounds are glorified tarps. They may even be actual tarps (depending on the manufacturer) at an insane markup because you said the word 'pool'. I've watched many friends buy specialty covers only to have them rip or get ruined in one or two seasons. I'd use a tarp from harbor freight. It's a bit late now but going forward, check every other week and one day they'll be clearanced. Buy several at that time.
Anyone had good results with the "winter closing kit" options you see advertised all the time? The ease of one box with everything I need and no headache is very appealing :)
How could they possibly know what your pool needs ? We test, and add what's necessary here. Not one iota more/less.
 
The intex covers I had had a few pre made holes in them so be mindful of that.
It means a little stuff might get in the pool & that when you pump the cover you may also be pumping some pool water.
I still opened crystal clear each year using them.
The pillow’s actual job is to get crushed by any ice that forms in the pool to keep the ice from pushing the pool walls as it forms (like a gizmo for the skimmer but bigger)
It may help water to run off & create a “moat” but unless you use alot of pillows stacked up it won’t make rain run completely off the cover.
Many have tried.
They are a 1 time use item - like an airbag. They shouldn’t be completely inflated so they have some give.
Above ground pool covers are designed to be supported by the water in the pool. The string or rope is just to keep them from falling in the pool. If the cover is not supported by the water in the pool yet it is secured to the top rails when precipitation builds up it will pull on them & can cause damage.
 
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Guess that leads to another thing I'm not clear on. You're supposed to drain the water past the holes in the wall for the hoses i believe, so that would empty my 18x48 Coleman pool half way roughly. Is a cover supposed to dip halfway down to sit on what's left of the water, or am I supposed to buy 100 pillows to hold it up?
The beer suggestion sounds better 😂

Also, if you winterize and it's that low or freezes even, how do you test the water to keep it balanced? That may be a dumb question, sorry.
 
You're supposed to drain the water past the holes in the wall for the hoses i believe, so that would empty my 18x48 Coleman pool half way roughly.
I believe it came with caps for the low pipes. @Mdragger88 can probably find the correct ones. (Sorry I don't know enough about them other than they exist).
if you winterize and it's that low or freezes even, how do you test the water to keep it balanced?
Once it's covered its good for now. You'll be cold-cold soon in Michagan, unlike some places which may remain warmer for months. We'd suggest they occasionally test, but you have less concern. Once yours completely thaws in the spring, it's probably time to open because it will take some extended warm weather to melt your ice.
 
There should be some caps that came with the pool - we often refer to them as “black hats 🎩” many people accidentally throw them away.
IMG_7643.png
You remove the fitting, put the cap in (with the nub towards the inside of the pool) , then put the fitting back on. (Inside the pool) then remove the plumbing from the outside. This will keep you from having to lower the water so much.
As far as testing the water, when it’s freezing/snow/ice you don’t need to do so.
If you raise to slam level before closing & the water is 60 degrees & falling you should still have adequate fc at opening time before the water temp increases above 60 degrees.
I do check mine periodically (about a month after closing & a month before opening) as we get heat waves here. But not in the dead of winter.
I just loosen the cover or stick my hand through the skimmer and get a sample.
 
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If you have the bigger hoses you can use these caps on the outside instead of the black hats on the inside. If you have valves you would take those off & put these on. You’ll get a little wet but just work fast
IMG_7644.png
 
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Thanks, I do have the black hats, I remove the fittings and jam those in when I go to replace the filter. It's 1.25 hoses on the outside of those.

If I use the black hats, how low should I drain the water to?
 

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Thanks, I do have the black hats, I remove the fittings and jam those in when I go to replace the filter. It's 1.25 hoses on the outside of those.

If I use the black hats, how low should I drain the water to?
That’s up to you- if you have a skimmer you would go just below that.
 
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So if I use the black hats, would it be better to not even drain it at all so the water can help hold the cover up and not put extra pressure on the walls and legs like mentioned in an earlier post if the water is too low? Or do you have to drain it at least a little so for when it freezes it doesn't turn into a 10ft high ice cube :ROFLMAO:

No skimmer basket or anything extra added, just the stock two holes in the wall to suck water in then the one hole to blow the water back out.
 
In an open container, ice expands up and not out, give or take 10%. You can safely drain 4 inches for some more wiggle room, while not breaking the bank in the spring replacing that water and chemicals.
 
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