Learning new to me pool

Capt_EA

Member
Aug 15, 2019
7
Florida
Hey all. I am purchasing a home that has a pool. The pool was one of the main reasons for the home purchase. I've been going to google and YouTube university and learning as much as I can about pools and my specific pool/equipment. I think I'm getting a grasp but there are still many questions. I had a pool inspection completed which stated a few items that needed to be addressed. The pool is an ingound in Florida built in 1991. The gunite looks to be 8 or so years old. Wild guess.

Here is what the pool inspector stated:

Pool/spa combo encompasses approximately 10,000 gallons of water and is located under a lanai cage. Pool surface is tradional gunite/cement with no obvious defects or large stains. Some age-appropriate staining was evident. Tiles were in very good condition with only some minor calcium ‘icicles’ below the waterfall.

Daily water circulation is performed by a Pentair WhisperFlo pump with a 1.5 hp motor. It was working fine. The pump turns on/off each day via an Intermatic T104 timer system.

Water filtration was done using a Hayward sand filter. Sand was visible on the bottom of the pool which indicates one or more baffles at the bottom of the sand filter are broken (allowing sand to return to the pool). To repair this issue, the valve mechanism atop of the filter would need to be removed, all the sand taken out, the baffles replaced and then the system put back together again. It would take about 3 hours of labor plus part. Total estimated cost $450. An option would be to replace the entire sand filter with a cartridge filter system (Pentair CC150) at a cost of about $800.

The spa system consists of a second pump (Pentair WhisperFlo 1 hp), a 1.5 hp air blower, a Rheem gas heater and an Intermatic RC234PT timer & air switch. An air button at the spa side is used to activate all systems. The only problem noted was that the Venturi jets in the spa, activated by the pump, did not push back an air/water mixture as designed. The exact cause could not be determined though the likely source was clogged Venturi valves. Repair would cost about $250.

Valves to activate the spa were all manual but in working condition.

Both the spa and pool light could not be turned on though the light switches may be inside the home which could not be accessed.

Water chemistry could not be checked as the pool had just been serviced.

I will post pics here of the pool and equipment. As far as I can tell the propane heater is only plumbed to the spa currently. There appears to be power to the pool/spa light switches which has me guessing the bulbs are bad. The side of the pool has a threaded plug that has no suction and I'm not sure what it is. The strainer has a two holes that one has a flap. Not sure of that either. I know I still need to learn a lot and apologize for the long post. Hopefully by the time we close on the house and get in there I'll be ready to go. Thanks
 

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I agree that the pool and equipment are at a very good place. A few things I would consider. Folks here can likely walk you through repairing the sand filter. So your cost might be much less and no need to replace the filter. If you are willing to spend a few dollars, installing an automation system would be something I'd want. Especially with a spa. You'll get automated and remote control over spa temp, pool temp, pool lights, valves, auxiliary lighting, and a SWG. And as I just mentioned, adding a salt water chlorine generator (SWG) would be a great addition to your setup. You will soon learn (if you haven't already) that using chlorine pucks in the chlorinator will cause either a constant rise in CYA or CH, depending on which types of pucks/tablets you use. Neither of which will be sustainable without water replacements on a regular basis. Florida does receive a lot of rain though, which helps with the buildup of those chemicals, since water will drain out of your overflow. (Hopefully you have an overflow for a Florida pool). It would look like a 1" PVC pipe towards the top of the waterline tile somewhere, or a grate maybe 3" x 4" at the same height.
 
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I agree that the pool and equipment are at a very good place. A few things I would consider. Folks here can likely walk you through repairing the sand filter. So your cost might be much less and no need to replace the filter. If you are willing to spend a few dollars, installing an automation system would be something I'd want. Especially with a spa. You'll get automated and remote control over spa temp, pool temp, pool lights, valves, auxiliary lighting, and a SWG. And as I just mentioned, adding a salt water chlorine generator (SWG) would be a great addition to your setup. You will soon learn (if you haven't already) that using chlorine pucks in the chlorinator will cause either a constant rise in CYA or CH, depending on which types of pucks/tablets you use. Neither of which will be sustainable without water replacements on a regular basis. Florida does receive a lot of rain though, which helps with the buildup of those chemicals, since water will drain out of your overflow. (Hopefully you have an overflow for a Florida pool). It would look like a 1" PVC pipe towards the top of the waterline tile somewhere, or a grate maybe 3" x 4" at the same height.
What type of automated system, any specific examples?
 
Still going back to that unknown line. I found that a pipe comes out of the ground by the pool equipment and is capped off. The cap was not glued. I blew in the line and it did discharge into te pool at the threaded plug just below the water line.

What is this for or what could it be used for?
 

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Its probably the suction side cleaner which was installed and probably never used. Did the previous owner left a Robot for cleaning/vacuuming? The ideal approach is as the inspector said, empty the sand filter and replace the sand, inspect the laterals/change if broken. Also replace the spider gasket in the MPV at the top of the filter. Read up on ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry and get your proper Test Kits Compared so you can keep your correct levels according to FC/CYA Levels. For now keep using your pucks until you get your test kit. I love the speedstir for testing make sure you also get it. Automations would be best to use the same as all your equipment, looks like pentair. Take close up pictures of the pumps and specs plate.
 
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Its probably the suction side cleaner which was installed and probably never used. Did the previous owner left a Robot for cleaning/vacuuming? The ideal approach is as the inspector said, empty the sand filter and replace the sand, inspect the laterals/change if broken. Also replace the spider gasket in the MPV at the top of the filter. Read up on ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry and get your proper Test Kits Compared so you can keep your correct levels according to FC/CYA Levels. For now keep using your pucks until you get your test kit. I love the speedstir for testing make sure you also get it. Automations would be best to use the same as all your equipment, looks like pentair. Take close up pictures of the pumps and specs plate.

I will get pics of the pumps and spec plates. What automation are you talking about using?

The previous owner did not leave a robot vacuum. Maybe that pipe was installed for a cleaner and never plumbed into the system. If that's the case I will have it done as that would seem to be easier for the vacuum than going through the skimmer.
 
IMO the best cleaner is going to be a robot (Maytronics s200 or similar) A pressure side cleaner, just isn't going to do as good of a job. And if you don't have one already, why not just buy the better option up front?
 
They never had a suction side cleaner otherwise the pipe would have been connected. They may of had a robot and took it with them to the new digs which I've seen that more then once. I would recommend not hooking up that line and buying a robot instead. This way it runs independently of the filter system. The Dolphin S200 is a well liked product on the forum.
 
Just out of curiosity, does the lanai cage block UV light (I know many types of glass do)? If so, do you know how this affects your CYA target range?
 
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