Leaking UV system

[bstein2379]

Pool was installed in 2020. Lately I have noticed I have had to add more water than normal to the pool. At first I thought it was evaporation because we got very little rain this summer. But then I noticed the UV system is leaking in the casing right where the acrylic light window is. I’ve read that UV lamps are good for about 10,000 hours and we run our pump 12 hours/day in season and 8 hours/day off season. So should I just replace the whole thing? Can I do it myself because it seems “plug and play” and I’m a handy/DIY person?

 

[Bperry]

Pool was installed in 2020. Lately I have noticed I have had to add more water than normal to the pool. At first I thought it was evaporation because we got very little rain this summer. But then I noticed the UV system is leaking in the casing right where the acrylic light window is. I’ve read that UV lamps are good for about 10,000 hours and we run our pump 12 hours/day in season and 8 hours/day off season. So should I just replace the whole thing? Can I do it myself because it seems “plug and play” and I’m a handy/DIY person?

The consumer UV systems are somewhat a scam in that the sun provides more UV than the little bulb ever could and does so for free. The other issue is that UV destroys chlorine and for that reason those systems are not recommended by TFP.

 

[mknauss]

Welcome to the forum.

Some light reading.

UV Systems - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[proavia]

Welcome to TFP!

You would be better served by removing the UV system - that big orange ball in the sky provides more UV than your UV system and doesn't use any electricity either.

 

[Newdude]

And seeing how the battle in a sanitary pool is with UV loss, why add more of it?

Truth be told the rinky dink residential units don't affect much, but still. More UV loss is more loss.

 

[bstein2379]

Okay so UV isn’t much benefit for the cost. I get it. Replacements seem to run $800-$1000. If I disconnect it, do I just run new plumbing from the output of the filter to the input of the electric heater, as per the pic? What about the electricity? Can I leave it or do I need to pull the wires from the control panel?

Also I know I have the dreaded fusion feeder with tablets and the mineral stick. This pool was designed/installed before I found TFP. I have been running liquid chlorine for the past few years thanks to this forum. Future plans would be to replace the fusion feeder with a salt generator. It looks like Jandy makes one that is the same exact size and form factor. So can I take out the FF and install the SWG in its place? What about programming/electricity at the panel? How would I reconfigure the panel to use the SWG? I might do this during the off season.

 

[wireform]

To answer your immediate question, yes bypass the UV and pipe directly to the heater.

 

[Newdude]

do I just run new plumbing from the output of the filter to the input of the electric heater, as per the pic?

The two pipes with the Xs will likely clear the one to the FF so you only need to cut out the UV and join them. Both pipes will rotate one cut and line up

What about the electricity? Can I leave it or do I need to pull the wires from the control panel?

Hang tight for someone who knows your automation.

Future plans would be to replace the fusion feeder with a salt generator. It looks like Jandy makes one that is the same exact size and form factor.

That one is a SWG *and* a mineral stick.

It's OK, just don't use the mineral stick and pop a blank in there.

 

[proavia]

Disconnect the plumbimg and electrical to the UV gadget - and completely remove the UV unit from the pad.

When you get ready to add a SWG, consider replacing your single speed pump with a VS pump amd also adding a heater bypass.

 

[1poolman1]

Okay so UV isn’t much benefit for the cost. I get it. Replacements seem to run $800-$1000. If I disconnect it, do I just run new plumbing from the output of the filter to the input of the electric heater, as per the pic? What about the electricity? Can I leave it or do I need to pull the wires from the control panel?

Also I know I have the dreaded fusion feeder with tablets and the mineral stick. This pool was designed/installed before I found TFP. I have been running liquid chlorine for the past few years thanks to this forum. Future plans would be to replace the fusion feeder with a salt generator. It looks like Jandy makes one that is the same exact size and form factor. So can I take out the FF and install the SWG in its place? What about programming/electricity at the panel? How would I reconfigure the panel to use the SWG? I might do this during the off season.

Whatever is powering the UV can be used, most likely without any changes, to power a SWG. You can leave the UV in the system until you get your SWG and then just move the wiring when it is removed. But, I believe you said it is leaking. Or, remove the UV now, tape the ends of the wires, remove then other end in the Jandy from whichever relay it is attached to, for safety, then re-attach there and install at the SWG when you get that.